Beautiful trees to plant in the country. What fruit bushes and trees are planted in the fall
Which trees and shrubs to plant near the house depends on many factors. It is important to know what kind of soil and climate this or that plant prefers.
What trees and shrubs to plant near the house
For example, conifers prefer sandy ground and bright places. It is better to choose not mature trees, but seedlings. Then they will take root better. Their significant drawback is the presence of a powerful root system. Being sufficiently developed, it can easily harm communications or the foundation of a house. Of course, this must be taken into account when choosing a place for landing. It should not be less than 10 meters from the building. Ideal - spruce fence or a place along the fence. Rowan, viburnum and other fruit trees will also decorate any yard. Bright colors of their foliage in the autumn, red berries in the winter - everything will be pleasing to the eye. These unpretentious trees prefer shade and moisture. Therefore, it is better to choose shaded areas for their landing. And at the same time, of course, do not forget to fertilize the soil. But the nut will be happy wet and warm corners of the site. Better if you choose a place near the house. It is necessary to avoid windy areas on the site. This may harm the crown of the tree. The choice of location must be taken responsibly. Frequent relocation can be detrimental to the tree. After all his root system quite weak. If the climate allows, you can decorate the space around the house with fruit trees. Cherries, cherries, apricots, peaches, pomegranates, plums - they all prefer the fertilized soil. It is better that it was still wet. Deepening in the soil should not be more than 100 cm. Sod is very popular among shrubs. It multiplies rapidly by dividing the bush. Therefore, even from a small amount in the end you get a lot of bushes. In late autumn, its leaves become scarlet. It looks very beautiful, especially against the background of the first snow. Depending on the species, it can be both a shrub and a tree. In addition to sod, they often plant a caliphill (meadowsweet, spirea). This shrub begins to bloom at the end of June and is distinguished by bright red or yellow foliage. However, this effect can be achieved only if the spirea is planted in a sunny place. Otherwise, its leaves will not acquire brightness and lose their decorative effect. Both shrubs grow very quickly. For this reason, you need to be prepared to devote a lot of time to constant pruning of branches. The undeniable advantage is that the branches can be given a varied shape and ultimately create a beautiful hedge.What to look for when planting trees around the house
Before landscaping the site, it is advisable to get acquainted with his plan. Misunderstandings may arise with neighbors. Therefore, it is better to immediately discuss with them all the nuances of future landings. After all, there is no guarantee that the crowns of the trees will not obscure the plot. Each tree must be planted so that it does not further inconvenience existing adult trees and shrubs. It is also important to know exactly where to plant trees is not at all worth it. For example, close to the fence. Tree roots should not touch the communications: plumbing pipes, wires, irrigation system of the site. Between the trees themselves it is better to maintain a distance of about 2 meters. In this case, their roots or branches are not intertwined. Trees such as poplar, walnut or birch grow fairly quickly. For several years they can grow up to 20 m. The branches of trees that have been planted close to the fence can either damage themselves (on the fence) or damage the foundation or roof.KakProsto.ru
What to plant near the fence in the country (20 photos)
What to plant near the fence in the country
High fences, with which more and more often, the dacha plots are surrounded, look not very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. Of course, the exception is the beautiful gate with wrought iron elements and carved gates. But even such a gate can be supplemented with ornamental plants. We also read how and from what to make a country fence.
Before you start planting plants along the fence, you need to carefully assess the ecology of the suburban area. Select the necessary plants should be based on soil conditions, the degree of illumination of the site and the climatic features of the region.
Shrubs and shrubs at the fence in the country
The most popular among the shrubs that are used as a fence or cover the fence is turf. It attracts gardeners with a high growth rate and an interesting silvery coloring of leaves with a white edging at the edges.
If you plant only 2-3 saplings along the fence, by the fall the young shrub reaches a meter high and is fully formed. In winter, the shrub will also please the eye of the owners of the plot with its brown-red color of the braided stem, which stands out favorably against the background of snow.
If it is necessary to form a dense hedge along the fence, then it is best to plant a caliphalis (spiraea) at the site. It has bright dark and yellow leaves. Also looks great spirea, which has a golden edging of leaves. The plant blooms in June-July for three weeks. Spiraea grows at a speed of 40 cm in one vegetative period and forms a thick hedge, completely covered with foliage. Due to the rapid growth of the spirea, it is cut, so the bushes of various sizes and shapes can be formed from the plant. Excellent results can be achieved by alternating spiraea of various colors. But in order to achieve the desired result, the bubble must grow on a well-lit area, otherwise the leaves of all kinds will have the same green color.
In the design, it is also possible to combine the useful with the beautiful by planting aronia (aronia) along the fence. In the spring, such a shrub blooms with beautiful pink-colored inflorescences, and at the end of summer it will delight with an abundance of black berries of sweet-tart taste. In autumn, the leaves of black chokeberry acquire a beautiful red hue. However, those who decide to plant arion on their plot should be prepared for frequent struggle with the new growth.
Berry bushes can also be planted near the fence: raspberries, game, currants, etc., or beautifully flowering ornamental shrubs: wild rose, lilac.
Shrubs along the fence
Trees near the fence in the country
There are a large number ornamental plantswhich are great for landing along the fence. These may be maple species with unusual feathery coloration (riverine, Tatar); willows (ashen, twisted, purple, Russian, Caspian, basket, ashen); buckthorn; chestnut; Linden; dwarf birch; various types of coniferous trees.
Trees along the fence
Creepers for the dacha fence
The solution to the problem of the fence of plants can be a vine or grapes. Since these plants:
Unpretentious to the conditions of growth; Do not take up much space; Many varieties of vines will please with beautiful flowers.
Planting grapes along the fence will not be difficult. To do this, you need to dig small holes along the fence at a distance of a meter from each other, the depth of each hole should be at least 40 cm, and plant in them seedlings. Less likely to land climbing plants It is not recommended, since plants, for the most part, will not grow in breadth, but in height.
Creepers along the fence
Flowers at the fence in the country
Flowers planted along the fence, can not hide all the flaws of the design. On the contrary, they focus attention on themselves, and all the flaws immediately become noticeable. Designers recommend decorating the fence with flowers in order to emphasize its beauty. However, if the plot is fenced with a decent fence, then along its entire length you can create an interesting flower bed, which will be located in several rows. Caring for such a flower bed is quite laborious. Spring will have to plant new flowers and in the autumn to eliminate old plants.
Along the fence can also be planted and bushes of perennial flowers: roses, peonies. But even without proper care and properly designed compositional solutions, they will not be able to be a good decoration of the fence at the dacha.
decorwind.ru
What trees and why it is better to plant in the fall
When to plant trees - in spring or autumn? An absolutely unequivocal answer to this question hardly exists: the year for a year doesn’t have weather conditions, and there is soil on each plot, and any sapling, like any living organism, is distinguished by its individuality. Each season has a whole set of pros and cons that need to be considered when making a decision about landing.
The natural truth is this: the tree and the earth are two parts of the indivisible. Therefore, it is possible to reunite them — that is, to plant a tree in the ground — at any time of the year (except for the period when the earth is unable to take the root — when it is frozen). Another thing - the amount of other related conditions. It is this that determines how the sapling will take root, how it will develop further. Therefore, for each plant has its own favorable time planting and transplants. And since it's autumn, let's remember which trees to plant right now (and why so). As soon as the autumn troubles in the garden are completed, seedlings with carefully covered roots appear in the hands of summer residents who go to their sites. A short but very responsible time for planting trees begins, and who is convinced of the correctness of the autumnal choice is not at all mistaken. 
- It is more profitable
- It is easier
- It saves time
- Strong cold weather able to destroy the immature trees.
- Winter is rich in stressful for seedlings situations: strong wind, ice, snowfall and other weather troubles can break young plants.
- Late autumn and winter seedlings often damage rodents.
- Well, during the absence of the owners saplings in the country just can steal other lovers fruit trees.
Experts strongly advise avoiding fall plantings non-winter hardy varieties of fruit trees and shrubs:
- Pears
- Apple trees
- Plums
- Apricot
- Peach
- Sweet cherries
- Almond
- Cherries
What trees and shrubs are well acclimatized during autumn planting
- Winter hardy varieties of apple and pear
- Aronia
- Currant
- Raspberries
- Gooseberry
- Honeysuckle
- Birch tree
- Chestnut
- Coniferous trees
- AT central Russia Autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October.
- AT northern areas - from early September to early October
- AT southern regions - from October to mid-November
Timing dictated by the weather. Each year, borders may “float” and differ significantly from the dates of previous years. There were years when it was possible to plant trees until the last days of November. - Important condition-reference
And only you need to take care of saving your seedling until spring, then to plant it on the site. Based on practice, for this they use the three most common methods: - storage in a cold wet basement (cellar)
- snowing
- burial in the ground
- Storage in the basement
- Snowing
The main thing is to remember: Nature will put hands into any of its children, and we should try to “hand over” healthy matured seedlings with a good root system in the most favorable time. Then it will not be necessary for the young tree to sit on the “sick-list” for years and to get a “disability” by the age of majority. If everything is done correctly, no matter what season we plant - in the fall, summer or spring - the tree will respond with cheerful growth, excellent development and a rich harvest. Irina, Bender
For several years in a row I tried to plant gooseberries in my plot. She took different varieties, planted in different places, but he did not accept me. Maybe the thing is that I planted it in the spring, and he did not have time to take root before the heat? Here I read your article, I will try, as you advised to plant it now. I love this berry very much. We'll see if it starts.Vasily, Kostroma
I value the post.Thanks Again. Cool Very good and competent article. I always wanted to plant coniferous trees, and your article and the company Berso-Design, advised to plant in the fall, try. In October I will plant. Needles are very useful, I want to do the bath for the child. Last year, in the fall, I received seedlings by mail, decided to plant them in the spring. Placed in a cold basement, the roots were in a container with sawdust. I watered them once every 10 days, as they dried out, and it lasted about 3 months. In February, I decided to make holes in the bottom of the tank; five liters of water spilled out, although the sawdust was completely dry on top. As a result, only one of five saplings began.7dach.ru
soil in the country - alumina, in some places, swamp, the question: What trees, shrubs and flowers to plant to grow well! ??
Natalia Sludnikova
Currants love moist soil.
From flowers - derbennik, buzulnik, marsh toffee, astilba, rookes, rogers, basil - moisture-loving.
Recruitr point: 
Avyzapisalis ....
Clay is a favorite soil for plums, cherry plum. They, together with cherries, tolerate swampiness. Berry bushes can be planted almost everything. Apple trees can also be planted on bulk soil.
With the arrival of autumn, people begin to spend more time on trees and bushes, trying to organize optimal conditions so that winter does not harm their plants. And some are just beginning to embody the innermost dream of having their own garden. If you suddenly decide to get a summer cottage, the first thing you need to learn is what trees are planted in the fall. In principle, they can be planted in the spring. But autumn is more suitable for this.
Positive sides of the autumn planting
Seedlings preparation
An important step in planting trees is the preparation of seedlings. It is especially useful to learn for her novice gardeners. You do not need knowledge of what trees are planted in the fall, and which in the spring, if you do not know how to preserve young plants. Remember, as soon as you have purchased seedlings, they should immediately be buried in the ground. If the root dries, the chances that the tree will be used are significantly reduced. When it is time for a direct planting, it is necessary to inspect and prepare the seedling root. Using a special need to cut all dry and too damaged branches. The cut should be directed down. Before planting, place the tree just above the root in the water so that it is saturated with moisture and better settled down in a new place.
The best time to plant trees
There are gardeners who hold the opinion that in the fall their troubles end. But they are wrong. it optimal time for including trees and shrubs. So do not have to relax. What tree is planted in the fall? During this period, properly transplant pears, plums and apples. Then there is a greater chance of a better adaptation of the rhizome of the tree to the new soil. Now we need to find out, not only what fruit trees are planted in the fall, but how exactly this should be done. Before work, you need to prepare the future soil for the seedling. From it, he will take all the necessary nutrients and trace elements. Begin to prepare the hole. The depth of the fossa depends on where the garden is located. For example, for low-lying areas, the pit should not be deeper than 30 centimeters to prevent too much moisture and rotting of the roots. Having dug a hole, we add fertilizer layers there: peat, compost and mineral mixtures. All this is generously soaked with water. Do not press the root into the ground, otherwise you may damage it. You just need to keep the tree strictly perpendicular to the ground (provided that you plant the plant not on a slope, but on a flat surface). When you plant a seedling, you will end up with a small slide around its trunk. Do not tillage to level the soil. Remember that winter, melting snow, wind will still make a draft, and more land will only protect the root system. To form the correct crown, several stakes are driven in around the tree and the branches of the seedling are tied to them. Only all this needs to be done evenly. Otherwise, the tree may lean more toward one side. Thus, the trunk will forever remain crooked. So we determined what tree is planted in the fall most often. 
Fruit Saplings
Autumn is the best period to plant fruit trees also because these plants are on next year already bear fruit. And the trees planted in the spring, though they can bloom, but almost do not give a harvest. And if a large amount of tie appears, it is recommended to be carefully cut off. Otherwise, all the energy and life-giving substances go into the fruit. The plant may weaken. 
Variety of fruit trees
Of course, the apple tree is the most popular representative of the flora. Especially in our country. But would you like to have a harvest of different fruits? Let's continue the conversation about which trees are best planted in the fall. 
No worse than an apple at this time is taken plum. In our territory grow its different varieties. Usually these are tall trees, from about 3 m to 5 m. Although height does not play such a serious role. Especially for the gardener who correctly forms the crown. The tree begins to bear fruit for 2-3 years after planting. The most productive period for plums will be the next 8-10 years. Due to the nature of our climate, the root system of the plant in question is usually located below the ground surface, not too deep. Therefore, in the dry summer it is particularly in need of watering. Now find out what trees are planted in the fall yet. All varieties of pears. They are planted somewhere from the beginning of October. The pear has an extremely powerful root system. Therefore, it does not need frequent watering. It must be remembered that the pear is very fond of sunlight, so choose a spacious free space for planting. To properly establish the distance between the trees, remember that for most plants, especially for adults, the root has the same width as the crown. Therefore, it is impossible to dig in seedlings too close to one another. Otherwise, the crown may deteriorate, or one of the plants will weaken. Now you know what trees are planted in the fall.
Make no mistakes
Even experienced gardeners do not exclude errors. What to say about newbies. If you decide to build a garden and decide what fruit trees are planted in the fall, then remember a few basic principles for a successful undertaking. Choosing seedlings, do not need to look for the largest specimens. The larger the tree, the harder it will take root in the new soil. Primary girls get used much better. Do not look at the fact that they do not have a developed crown, but the root was not damaged when digging. Therefore, they will take root faster and will rapidly grow. 
Do not hurry with the landing, it is best to start no earlier than September 15. Do not plant trees on the ground only. She must settle to be higher. Then trees take root faster. Do not plant plants too deep or very shallow. Focus on the root neck. It should be at ground level or two centimeters higher. Do not use fresh manure, which, due to decomposition and excretion of ammonia and hydrogen sulfide, can damage an already weak root. Thus, you have mastered the information about what trees are planted in the fall and what you need to pay special attention to.
Trees and shrubs with a closed root system can be planted from early spring to late autumn. The exception is the period of leaf fall. However, it is better to choose for this moment, suitable also for seedlings with an open root system. And for many fruit trees and shrubs, the preferred planting time is still autumn.
Gooseberry
Gooseberry light-requiring, it should be planted in open sunny places, protected from strong winds. It responds well to soil fertility. It does not tolerate overmoistening at all (the root neck is rotting), it is much better tolerated by temporary drought. He does not like nearby groundwater either - it is desirable that their level is no closer than 1.5 m from the ground; if the groundwater is above 0.8 m, then the bush should be planted on a soil pad-pad with a height of 0.3–0.5 m and a width of 0.8–1.0 m.
If there is a small amount of space on the plot, then the gooseberry can be placed between young fruit trees, but the distance from trees to bushes should be at least 2 m. You can also plant gooseberries along the border of the plot or along the fence - so that the planting is separated from buildings and fences less than 1.5 m.
Gooseberry prefers light medium loamy soil. If the soil is sandy or heavy clay, it is necessary to add clay or sand, respectively. Does not like acidified soil. If the acidity index (pH) is above 5.5, then lime is added to the planting - at least 200 g per 1 sq. Km. m. To gooseberry grew well and developed, the land at the landing site must be thoroughly weeded. It is not advisable to plant a shrub to the place where currant or raspberry were growing before - the soil will be greatly depleted, and the diseases and pests common to these crops will necessarily spread on the “newcomer.”
The optimal time for planting gooseberries with an open root system is mid-September - early October. Buy seedlings better in advance - a week or two. This should be done in specialized nurseries and firms with a proven reputation. The root system of the seedling should have 3-5 lignified skeletal roots with a length of at least 10 cm and developed fibrous roots. The above-ground part of one-year-old seedlings will be enough for one shoot — but biennial seedlings should have 2-3 shoots about 30 cm long. When transporting seedlings with an open root system, dip the roots in a clay mash and wrap it in a wet sackcloth.
Gooseberries are planted in previously prepared round holes with a diameter of 0.5 m and a depth of 0.5 m. When digging a hole, the fertile (upper) layer is thrown on one side, the underlying layer - on the other. Then a bucket of manure (fresh) or compost, 200–250 g of complex mineral fertilizer or 150–200 g of superphosphate, 40–60 g of potassium sulfate is added to 2/3 of the mass of the fertile layer. All thoroughly mixed and filled with this mixture about half the pit. The remaining 1/3 of the fertile layer is piled on top of a mound. After the mixture has settled in the pit (after 1-2 weeks), proceed to planting. The seedling is placed on a mound, straighten the roots, fall asleep with the remaining earth so that the root neck is 5–7 cm deep. Then they trample the ground around the bush, spill well and mulch with humus. Shorten shoots, leaving 5-7 cm above the ground, so that the plant is better branched.
Honeysuckle
For edible honeysuckle choose an open and sunny, but protected from the wind place.
Bushes are conveniently planted along the edge of the plot with a distance between plants of 0.5 (dense hedge) up to 1.5 m. The soil should be moisture-consuming, but without stagnant water. Type of soil - almost any.
Plant honeysuckle better in the fall. Plants planted in the spring, take root worse, besides it should be done early - in April, before flowering.
Most varieties are self-sterile; to ensure cross-pollination, at least two different varieties will be needed that bloom at the same time, and preferably three to five. Planting material (2–3-year-old saplings) should look like this: the aerial part consists of 4–5 skeletal shoots 25–35 cm long and at least 5 mm thick at the base, roots not shorter than 25 cm, with 4–5 branches.
Landing pits (40x50x40 cm) are prepared immediately before planting. Organic fertilizers (up to two buckets, depending on soil type), as well as superphosphate (up to 200 g) and potassium salt (35–40 g) are applied to them.
Black currant
Black currant gives a higher yield of larger berries, if planted next to several different varieties - for mutual pollination. Almost all modern varieties are self-pollinated, but with cross-pollination, the number of ovaries increases and the size of the berries increases, even in small-fruited black currants.
Currant seedlings with an open root can be planted in spring and autumn, but it is better to do it in the fall (for middle band - in the first half of October). During the winter, the soil around the bushes will settle and thicken, in the spring the plants will start growing early and will take root well. When using seedlings in containers, there is practically no time limit on planting.
Usually, currant bushes are planted at a distance of 1–1.25 m. In order to get a harvest for the 2-3rd year, plants in the row can be planted somewhat thicker, at a distance of 0.7–0.8 m. But the harvest from the bush will be smaller and life expectancy will decrease slightly.
Blackcurrant is moisture-loving and relatively shade-tolerant, but does not tolerate strong shading. Therefore, it is better for it to divert low, wet, sufficiently illuminated and protected from the wind places (but not swampy lowlands with protruding groundwater!). Best of all - fertile light loam. On heavy acidic soils, black currants grow poorly.
At the chosen place it is necessary to level the soil so that there are no deep depressions and holes. Then it is good to dig it into the spade bayonet, carefully removing the rhizomes of perennial weeds. The planting pit with a depth of 35–40 cm and a diameter of 50–60 cm is filled to about 3/4 of the depth with fertile soil mixed with fertilizers — a compost bucket, superphosphate (150–200 g), potassium sulphate (40–60 g) or wood ash (30–40 g).
The root system of the seedling should be lignified, have 3-5 skeletal roots at least 15–20 cm long. The above-ground part is at least one or two branches 30–40 cm long. Damaged or dried roots are shortened, the seedling is dug 6–8 cm higher root cervix. Deepening the root collar contributes to the formation of hilar buds for the future multi-stem bush.
Before pouring a hole, half a bucket of water is poured into it, another half a bucket is poured into the ring hole around the landing site. And immediately mulch the surface with peat. The ground beneath the currant is loosened: around the root collar to a depth of 6–8 cm, at a distance from it - by 10–12 cm. When mulching, moisture is better preserved, and it can be loosened much less often.
In the fall, heavy soil under the bushes is shallowly dug up and left lumpy for the winter to keep the moisture supply. If the soil is light and loose enough, you can limit yourself to a shallow loosening (up to 5–8 cm) near the bushes, and dig up the aisles by 10–12 cm.
Of all berry bushes Blackcurrant is the most moisture-loving, because its root system is located in the upper soil layer, at a depth of 20–30 cm. It is especially important that it receives the right amount of moisture during intensive growth and formation of the ovary (early June), during berry pouring (third the decade of June - the first decade of July) and after the harvest (August - September). Important and podzimny irrigation, especially in dry autumn. Approximate water consumption - 20-30 liters per bush.
Red currant
Redcurrant loves sunny places, protected from cold winds, fertile and loose soil.
Seedlings are best planted in early autumn, at the very beginning of September. Missing the deadline is dangerous: seedlings will not have time to take root and prepare for winter.
The planting pattern depends on the characteristics of the variety, which dictate what adult plants will become. Compact, straight growing bushes enough 1-1.25 x 1.25 m; sprawling, lush need a distance of at least 1.5 m. Most modern varieties are very self-fruited.
For planting red currants, it is necessary to dig a hole 40 cm deep and 50–60 cm wide in 2–3 weeks in advance (for the soil with which we fill it to settle). Mix the ground thoroughly with organic and mineral fertilizers: 8–10 kg of compost (humus, peat), 150–200 g of superphosphate, 30–40 g of potassium sulphate or wood ash. The plant can be planted directly or obliquely - for the best education of additional roots.
After planting, pour abundantly and grind with humus or peat. Then the branches need to be cut strongly, leaving 10–15 cm with 3-4 buds.
Red currant will be useful fertilizing: organic, nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. That's just it does not transfer chlorine, and complex fertilizers need to be selected taking into account this feature.
Abundant, but not too frequent watering is necessary during the growth of shoots, flowering, fruiting and in the fall, after picking berries.
Currant bushes are winter-hardy. Under the snow, they are not afraid of frost to –45 ° C. Spring frosts that damage flowers and ovaries are much more dangerous. In such cases, it is recommended to cover the bushes with non-woven material.
Apple tree
When is it better to plant apples in autumn or spring? Each of these options has its advantages.
In practice, preference is given, after all, autumn. In this case, the root system of seedlings during the autumn-spring period has time to recover after planting, so that with the start of the growing season, at least to some extent, to provide the ground organs of the seedling with the necessary nutrients.
Spring planting of apple seedlings is better to produce in early spring, when the earth has not completely thawed. The tree planted at this time will need constant regular watering. The lack of moisture can lead to a noticeable drying out of a weakened root system and a disproportionate development of the underground and above-ground parts of the plant.
No matter what term of landing you would stop, landing pits need to be prepared in advance. Remember that the planting pit is not a well for roots or an earthen clod of a seedling, but a receptacle of fertile soil, a nutrient medium for a plant for the next 5-7 years. Each cubic centimeter of it should contain substances that allow the seedling to grow and strengthen quickly.
Therefore, even for plants 30-50 cm tall, you need to prepare a large hole. The only exceptions are columnar apple trees, pits 50x50x50 cm are suitable for them. A pit under an apple tree is dug at least 60-80 cm in diameter and 70-80 cm deep.
The excavated pit is filled with fertile soil consisting of the top layer of the original soil, peat, compost, rotted manure, humus and - on heavy clay soils - sand (1: 1 ratio). On landing pit 6-8 handfuls of complex mineral fertilizer (Kemira, azofosk) are added. It is better to lay the soil in a hole in layers (falling asleep all the components with a layer of 15-20 cm, adding 1.5–2 handfuls of fertilizer to each), carefully mixing with a shovel and compacting each layer. The pit should be filled with a "slide" so that the earth rises 15-20 cm above its edges. If this is not done, then as the soil compresses and shrinks, the seedling will be in a funnel in 2-3 years and it will become less winter hardy, will bear less fruit.
And only after the pit is completely filled with fertile soil, a hole is made in it to the size of the roots of a sapling or an earthy coma. When planting a plant with an open root system at the bottom of the hole, a mound can be formed on which the roots of the apple tree are spread. Place the seedling in the hole and fill it with water. Pour the roots out of the hole with earth, until the water is absorbed. After 5-10 minutes, compact the soil around the planted apple tree. Tie the seedling "figure of eight" to the three stakes, stuck as deep as possible (about 70-80 cm). If the stakes are two or one, the tree can gradually bend over and even after a few years fall during a hurricane wind.
For any stock, one-three year old seedlings are best taken root. When buying seedlings with an open root system, check the viability of the roots: scrape them with your fingernail - live roots are under the bark and there should be white on the cut.
Home plum
Most often, we grow varieties of plums home. These are tall 3-5 meter trees. However, the height of the tree as a feature of the variety for the gardener who knows pruning is not decisive. It can easily form a short tree with a well-lit and ventilated crown.
The first fruits on the branches begin to appear on the 3-4th year after planting. The next 8–10 years for the plum tree is the most fruitful. If you are seduced by some very tasty, but not too winter-hardy variety, graft it onto a winter-hardy stock or buy seedlings on a shaper.
In addition to home plums, some varieties of Chinese plum are also grown here (it is characterized by medium dimensions and frost resistance) and cherry plum. There are also varieties of thorns, Ussurian plums, Canadian plums and many others.
The root system of plum trees can penetrate quite deeply, but in our climate, the bulk of the roots are superficial, located under the crown or slightly beyond its limits. It is easy to care for the plum - it is enough to regularly loosen the tree trunk and form a crown. This culture loves watering, but does not tolerate stagnant moisture.
Self-infested plums - quality is optional. Partially self-fertile and self-fruitful - varieties that can set fruit only in the vicinity of a pollinator variety. They can be any other variety of plums, but an indispensable condition is simultaneous flowering.
If there is no room for several plum trees, several different varieties can be planted onto a winter-hardy variety that can pollinate each other, and the problem will be solved. It is also important to note that only domestic plum is suitable for good pollination of homemade plum varieties, and cherry plum and Chinese plum varieties can pollinate each other.
Crop harvested in the second half of summer. Early varieties - in late July - early August, medium in mid-August, late - in late August - early September. Unfortunately, sometimes plums of late varieties do not ripen in our climate because of the cold rainy summer. The average yield of plums with good care is 10–20 kg per tree, and in some abundant varieties up to 40 kg.
Pear
Pear seedlings are planted in spring or mid-autumn.
Watering only young trees and only in a very strong drought. A pear has a powerful deep root system, and it is capable of extracting water on its own.
Pear is subject to the same diseases as the apple tree: scab, moniliosis, cytosporosis.
She is also "loved" by the fruit moth, the apple tree beetle, the sucker.
To improve the quality of fruit trees can be vaccinated. Pears best take root on seedlings of winter-hardy varieties and wild pears. Not bad fit ordinary and chokeberry, hawthorn, apple and even poplar. Scientists are working on breeding dwarf rootstocks for pear.
Forming and trimming are also very important for good harvest. The meaning of pruning is that in the summer each leaf should “bathe in the sun”, especially in the morning when all processes in the leaves are very active. Pear is one of the most light-loving cultures, and in the shade flower buds do not form in it. That is why the pear can not be planted against the wall of the house - there it simply will not bear fruit.
Many gardeners remove lower branches from fruit-bearing trees - supposedly there are no pears on them. It is not worth doing. There are no fruits at the bottom of the crown, because the tree was cut incorrectly and now these lowermost branches are poorly lit. In principle, it is necessary to remove all branches growing inside the crown. But if the branch is well lit and does not interfere with others, it is quite possible to leave.
