Grapes in the Urals care for him. Caring for grapes in autumn - the key to a good harvest

PECULIARITIES OF CUTTING GRAPES THIS YEAR

South Ural grapes

PREHISTORY

Last summer of 2011 was rainy with warm long showers 1-2 times a week. All this lasted from mid-May to early September, the land was completely over-saturated with moisture, especially where the soil has a clay structure. And in mid-September, when the air temperature was + 12 + 15, when the leaves on all plants were green, continued their summer life and did not prepare for winter at all, a single frost hit at night with a temperature of -18 degrees, then it became warm again and winter came only in mid-November. But this single frost was enough to kill the sleeves, vines and buds of grapes, apples, pears, cherries, plums, even currants and gooseberries, and much more. The reason was that the water during freezing, turning into ice, expands its volume. And since ice is harder than the tissues of trunks, branches, sleeves and vines, it simply breaks them, thereby displacing and destroying the channels through which sap flow takes place inside the trunk. As a result, in the spring, when the plants wake up, and the juice begins to move upward from the root system, it often has nowhere to go, since all the canals are destroyed. In this case, the juice begins to flow out of the plant at the site of destruction, and this is called crying. Unfortunately, this cry suggests that it’s time to cry and to the gardener himself, because everything that grows above this cry has died. Likewise, this applies to the root system, when excessive moisture breaks the roots of plants, even crying is not visible, because the juice from the broken roots remains in the ground, only sometimes wet spots appear on the soil surface. At the same time, such a severe frost practically did not cause any damage to the vineyard growing on sandy soil because the moisture had already managed to leave the vines and sleeves in root systemand his sleeves, vines and buds remained unharmed. Also well-preserved grape bushes up to 5 years of age, planted in prepared pits with a mixture of soil, humus, gravel and coarse sand easily permeable to water.

In addition to the autumn frost due to the fact that little snow fell, the ground froze to 2m70cm, and thawed at this depth only by mid-June. When measuring the temperature of the soil: at a depth of 10 cm, it was -15 degrees. This suggests that the root system of grapes at this depth is frozen, especially the one that was too humid, because the freezing point of the roots of grapes is -5-7 degrees. At the same time, according to the Chelyabinsk Hydrometeo Center, the lowest temperature recorded at a depth of 20 cm was -6 degrees. So think after this, how to plant grapes - under a shovel, or still dig a planting hole, and plant a seedling deeper so that the main root system is at a depth of 40-50cm.

Due to the fact that they were poorly covered, I have suffered 2 bushes of grapes. Both of them had their sleeves completely dead, and the root system was very frozen. In the middle of summer, both of them gave shoots not more than 10 cm high and as thick as a match. That is, despite the fact that the root system and the above-ground part of the bush died, some underground buds survived, they gave new shoots, and began to form a new root system. The forecast is as follows. If at least one bud overwinter normally, then for the next season it will continue its development, increasing the volume of the root system, extending and thickening the young vine. If the vine can not survive in the winter, and will not give new shoots in the new season, the bush will have to uproot. At the same time, the bushes of the same varieties, but well covered, the root system survived and gave powerful young shoots.

SPRING TRIM

In the spring, but rather in the summer - in the middle of June, when the grapes start to throw out the inflorescences, it becomes clear that it was left alive and not. That's exactly when they start the first pruning. Completely cut all the sleeves that did not give new shoots, under the base of the head of the bush. On the same sleeves, on which they went to the growth of the vine, they cut off the sleeves, departing 0.5-1cm from the beginning of the place of growth of these vines. Moreover, if there are several of these shoots, the pruning is performed on a strong shoot, that is, the thickest and longest, despite the fact that several thin-growth shoots fall under the pruning. Thus, the food will not be spent on weak shoots, but will immediately go to a strong escape, providing it with the most complete nutrition. If you do not do this, then nature will do it herself, she will cut off nutrition to weak shoots, and they will wither. Sometimes it happens when the berries are already starting to fill. Of course, such areas of the sleeves should be trimmed as they are discovered throughout the summer.

If it became clear that the grapes were badly damaged after wintering, then in addition to 3-4 sleeves coming from the head of the grape bush, you need to leave to replace the old sleeves - 1-2 young shoots, the rest should be cut. So this year, despite the fact that in the spring the sleeves looked alive and healthy and gave a harvest of berries, by the autumn because of the power failure inside the sleeves, very weak vines grew by 5-7cm, or even smaller. In addition, they failed to lumber, and everyone froze after the first frost. I had to cut them also under the base of the bush. And since the young shoots, some of them did not give, it remained only the head of a bush. This is called trimming under the black head. Why black? Because she looks black. After all, young vines yellow or brown did not grow.

Not lignified vine

Embossing is the cutting off or pruning of crowns of vines. A crown of vines - is curved tops of the vines. Embossing is needed so that the vine is better prepared for wintering, it becomes thicker, faster and better woody. This is because the incoming food in the vine is no longer in support of the growth of the crown of the vine, but is distributed over the already grown stem of the vine, thereby thickening and strengthening it. After the trunks have received completely necessary substances, and the kidneys have fully formed, from them the stepchildren begin to grow. Embossing is performed when the crown of the vine unbends, that is, it becomes straight. This suggests that the supply of power to the vine has decreased, it is already ending its growing season, and begins to prepare for the winter. In this case, the stepchildren are not formed. In our conditions, as a rule, the crowns of the vine remain bent until the autumn frosts, so they start minting in the middle of August. In this case, the vine has time to get stronger, and stepchildren do not grow so large that they had to be cut when cutting the vine, but are easily removed by moving the hand along the vine.


AUTUMN CUTTING

Why is pruning needed for vines, because a lot of vines grows beautifully without pruning? The answer to this question is very simple: in order to get an even greater crop of grapes.

It all started a long time ago, back in ancient Rome. One of the guests tied his donkey to the hedge, which grew grapes. Naturally, the donkey, while waiting for its owner, gnawed a grape bush, for which the owner of the donkey and got a scolding from the owner of the estate. And on next year   It is this bush that gave a strong harvest with larger clusters and berries. It was this case that gave impetus to regular pruning of the grapes, which gradually reached perfection.

In traditional zones of growing grapes, there is practically only one method used - this is pruning of grapes in a way with leaving the knot of substitution. The bottom line is that 2 vines are left on the sleeve during pruning. The upper vines or fruit shooter, which is supposed to produce a crop, are pruned by 4–8 buds (2). And the lower vine is cut by 2-4 buds (1), of which 2 vines must grow, so a new replacement knot and a fruit arrow will be formed from them. A piece of the sleeve with a sprouting arrow is cut under the lower knot of substitution.

Replacement knot

1 - replacement knot

2 - fruit arrow

3 - cropped sleeve

In the northern conditions, this method of trimming is not very acceptable. There are several reasons for this. The most important of them is that the spring weather in our conditions is much worse and more contrast than in the south. That snow, then rain, then the heat to +30 degrees, then freezing, but rather frosts sometimes to - 8 degrees. This weather continues from the moment of melting snow, and this is the middle of March until June 12-15, it turns out almost 3 months. In our conditions, all trees dissolve buds by May 9, and grapes a little later for 7-10 days, due to the fact that its root system begins to work when the soil warms up to +5 +7 degrees. Thus, before the end of spring frosts, within 2-3 weeks, the budding grape buds receive stress at the physical and energy levels from the sharp difference in day and night temperatures, from extreme weather: either heat or frost. The desiccating factors of the sun and wind also have a negative effect on the establishment and development of the kidneys. As a result, the first established buds under the influence of these factors cease their further development, and remain at the stage in which they were caught by the negative effects of the weather. And, despite the fact that in the future during the summer there will be favorable conditions for the growing season of grapes, these buds will remain underdeveloped and may not wake up at all next year. This is well shown in my film: “Technology of growing grapes”, when only 7 and 14 buds woke up on the vine after hibernation, the rest did not sprout. Therefore, leaving 2-4 buds at the knot of substitution is a very big risk in our conditions of losing the entire sleeve because they may not wake up in the spring. Not only can you lose the harvest, but you also have to cut off the sleeve, before the runaway shoot, from a sleeping kidney on this sleeve. If no kidney on the sleeve has woken up, it will have to be cut out completely.

In our conditions, pruning is carried out on the entire woody part of the vine. It must be said that much depends on the weather throughout the entire vegetative development of the grapes, the grape variety, its acclimatization to local conditions. For 20 years of growing grapes, which he did not experience the whims of the weather, all the same, 4 out of 5 shrubs planted first were alive, and one of them, white Muscat, retained its 4 old sleeves, each of which reached length -12 meters. And it is interesting to me to know how long they will grow, and how long they will live. The deceased variety, Amur black, lived for 15 years, although it is considered wild and unsinkable, but did not withstand our harsh Ural conditions, that is, we have tougher conditions than in the Amur taiga.

I remember the year when the whole summer was damp and cold weather, as they say, all summer did not remove the sweatshirt. The temperature this summer was no higher than 10-15 degrees, and after the autumn frosts struck, all the vines, but they grew by only 5-10 cm, or even less, broke off their hands like icicles. On all five bushes lignified by one bud on two vines, and that's it. And there is another option. So this year the vine varieties: decorative Sergeeva lignified by 38 buds. Of course, this amount of kidneys is not required, it is necessary to leave 8-12 buds, and this will be enough for normal development. grape bush.

As a rule, in the first year, the grapes in our conditions are not cut because it grows no higher than 0.5-1 meters in summer, and no more than a pencil thick. And as a matter of fact, there is nothing to cut there in the way that by the fall the young vine will be woody by no more than 2-4 buds, and the distance between the buds is 2-4 cm no more.

Pruning begin with the second year of life of the grapes. The principle itself is very simple. You need to leave 3-4 sleeves growing out of the soil, and 3-4 young the most powerful and powerful vines on the sleeve of the previous year. That's all. 3-4 sleeves left out of the ground are left in order not to lose the grape bush in case of extreme weather vagaries, when any of the sleeves can freeze, then the survivors will remain and produce grapes. If only 1 sleeve grows, then with its death it will be necessary to wait several years to restore the yield of the grapes. 3-4 vines left the strongest. That is, if several shoots grow from one bud (2-4), then only 1 is left, the rest are cut out under the base.

It must be said that, in our conditions, pruning of grapes is carried out only in the autumn after frosts, when it becomes finally clear what could prepare for wintering and what did not. On the vine itself, the place of lignification is determined very simply. You need to grab the top of the vine with your hand; it will be cold and wet. Driving your hand to the base of the vine you need to find a place where it becomes warm and dry. From this place and to the base, the vine is considered ligneous, that is, completely ready for wintering. Those who do not feel warm and cold with their hands, and such people, although there are few of them, still need to cut the vine at the top. The cut in this case will be white, and so gradually it is necessary to cut until the core of the vine turns green. White color indicates that the vine is frozen, and of course it is dead. Green color indicates that the vine is alive and ready for wintering. It is only necessary to consider the following. Although the core of the vine may be green, the cambium under it may be frozen. It's easy to define. It is necessary to pry the edge of the bark with a fingernail, and if it is removed by a stocking, then this is precisely what indicates that the cambium has died under the bark, it will be gray or dark green. If the bark is not removed with a fingernail, but only otkovyrivaetsya directly under the nail, then it just says that the cambium under the bark is alive, and its color will be bright green.


Sometimes after harsh winters it is necessary to replace and trim the sleeves affected by frost. This is done as follows. If several young shoots grow on the sleeve, then it is necessary to cut it off from a strong escape — the leader's escape, despite the fact that several more shoots can grow above it, but they all lag far behind the leader. In this case, the sleeve will cease to support weak shoots, but the strong will get even more power, and thus will become even stronger. If on the sleeve all the shoots frail, then it must be cut completely.

Today in my garden about 140 grape varieties grow, and more than 400 varieties have been tested. Only those that could survive in our harsh Ural conditions remained.


The pruning is well shown in the film: “Technology of growing grapes in the Southern Urals,” which I shot back in 2004, and then redefined in 2007 with the same name. This film was the impetus for the development of methods of growing grapes in local conditions and for creating similar films in various regions of the country. Now there are quite a few films on the subject on the Internet. Go there, look at them, and choose the cropping option you want. It is better to see once than to read or hear a thousand times. If you have any questions about the grapes, you can discuss them on the site forum: "Grapes of the northern latitudes of Russia." Come on him, ask them. You will be answered by the winegrowers who have been receiving rich grape harvests in the northern latitudes of Russia for years.

I hope that this article is a little bit, but it helped you to clarify the principles of grape bushes pruning.

I would also like to wish you dear gardeners - good grape harvests.

Sergeev N.G. Yuzhnouralsk

457042 Energetikov St. d75 g Yuzhnouralsk Chelyabinsk region Sergeev Nikolay Georgievich

Tel: 89191210282

E-mail: [email protected]

Grapes at all times was considered a southern and heat-loving plant, which is simply impossible to grow without enough sunlight. Planting a vine on your plot is the dream of any gardener not only in the southern regions of the country, but also in colder and harsh climates. Not long ago, many people could not even think about growing grapes in the Urals, where severe frosts and a very short summer reign.

However, due to the tremendous work of domestic breeders, a large number of grapes for the Urals was bred, which have good resistance to frost and pests and are distinguished by early fruiting. All of this helps the successful cultivation of grapes in the Urals in the open field, although this process still requires adherence to certain rules.

In this article we will consider the peculiarities of growing grapes in the Urals, describe the most popular varieties for this area, and also note the important points of planting and caring for grapes in the conditions of the climate of the Southern Urals.

Description of grapes and features of its cultivation in the Southern Urals

Grapes - is a perennial grassy vine, which belongs to the genus Grapes and belongs to the large family Grape. Optimal areas for growing this crop are areas with a temperate or subtropical climate, where there are no sharp changes in day and night temperatures and there is a long warm summer. That is why the usual grape varieties are not suitable for cultivation in the Southern Urals, where severe winters with frost down to -40 degrees, very short summers with rainy and windy weather, sharp temperature drops are observed. For such rather complicated territories, the breeders specially bred the zoned resistant varietiesthat give early harvests   and can withstand severe frosts. The grapes in the southern Urals - troublesome, but giving good yields of tasty berries.

Grapes known to mankind since ancient times. The progenitor of modern cultivated grapes was the wild forest grape that grew along the entire coast of the Mediterranean Sea. It should be noted that grapes are considered to be one of the first plants that people began to cultivate. Evidence of the use of grapes in winemaking archaeologists found on the bas-reliefs and drawings in the tombs of the Pharaohs, which depicts the figures of leaves and grapes. For more than 7,000 years, people began to make wine from grapes, and about 4,000 years ago there was a mention of the ancient Greeks selling it. Until the 17th century, wine was imported on the territory of Russia, but already in 1613 the first vineyard in Astrakhan was laid down and since then the large-scale cultivation of this crop for production purposes began.

To date, the development has stepped far forward, which allows you to grow grapes in the Urals in the greenhouse and in the open field.

Description of grapes

  • Grapes - is a perennial vine, the vine of which can braid everything that is near.
  • When growing grapes in the southern territories, the vine can be approximately 20-30 meters long. If we speak about the territory of the Southern Urals, then it is possible to grow the vine by a maximum of 2-3 meters.
  • The tendrils grow on the grape shoots, with which the vine clings to the natural or artificial support.
  • The vineyard is formed from different shoots. Older shoots are brown and covered with thick and cracked bark. Younger shoots have a yellowish or reddish shade and are flexible.
  • During the growing season shoots are completely covered with whole, alternate leaves, which are attached using a long petiole.
  • Grape leaves consist of 3 or 5 blades and have a bright green tint.
  • On the shoots are formed not only the buds of the leaves, but also lay buds, the abundance of which can be judged on the future harvest.
  • The flowers of the grapes are very small, light green. These bisexual flowers are collected in loose paniculate inflorescences.
  • The flowering of the vineyard in the southern regions begins around May-June, but in the Southern Urals this stage will be slightly shifted in time due to the long warming of the soil after the winter.
  • For the Southern Urals, the vineyard is optimal, where fruiting begins 100-115 days after the inflorescence is set.
  • After ripening, shoots of grapes are formed on the shoots, which can have very different shapes, from oblong to more rounded. An important feature of growing grapes in the Southern Urals is that only 3-4 clusters of grapes should be left on one vine. This is due to the fact that all the formed clusters simply can not mature before the onset of cold weather, but the plant itself will give all its power to their ripening, which will affect the taste of berries.
  • The grapes can be very different colors: yellow, green, pink, dark red, black and purple.
  • Most often, all the grapes are covered with a waxy coating.
  • In some berries, seeds are formed, which can be from 1 to 4.
  • To date, quite extensive use of grapes. From the berries make juices. jams, preserves, raisins, vinegar and wine. Grapes are also used in cosmetology and pharmacology - oil is squeezed out of grape seeds. A vineyard leaves are often used for cooking.


The best grapes for the Southern Urals

To date, a large number of covering and non-covering grape varieties have been bred for planting in the colder territories of the country. The most important rule for the full formation of a vine bush in the Urals is the correctly chosen cultivar. These must necessarily be time-tested winter-resistant and early ripening varieties that can grow well in the rather harsh conditions of the Urals. We give an example of the most popular grape varieties for this area.

  • Zilga grape variety. This variety is winter-resistant and unpretentious, which contributes to planting grapes in the Urals. Maturation occurs in about 115-120 days, which makes it possible to classify the variety as early. On shoots appear clusters of medium size, which consist of rounded berries of purple hue. The weight of one bunch can be about 100 grams. The berries are very fragrant with a sweet and sour taste. The shoots of this variety can be restored even after a small freezing.
  • Variety "Memory Dombkovskoy." This grape variety is considered the most popular among Ural gardeners. It has good endurance and winter hardiness. Maturation occurs in 90-100 days, which is optimal for the climatic conditions and the short summer of the Southern Urals. The shrub itself is quite tall with a thick vine on which dense and fairly large clusters are formed. The weight of one bunch on average can be about 300-800 grams. The clusters consist of round-shaped berries of black and blue color, have no bones, are very sweet. The variety has a high yield, as 90% of its shoots are capable of fruiting. That is why in the conditions of the climate of the Ural the harvest of this variety must be rationed.

  • Grade of grapes "Aleshenkin" or "Alyosha". The ripening of the berries of this variety occurs after about 115 days. It is resistant to severe frosts and severe winters, gives a stable and good harvest even in the conditions of a short rainy summer. On the shoots mature large clusters of berries in the form of a cone. The weight of one bunch can reach about 700 grams, there are specimens up to 2.5 kg. The cluster consists of large oval berries of amber color. Half of the berries in the bunch does not have seeds, it tastes very sweet. In the conditions of the climate of the Southern Urals, the removal of part of the ovaries is required for the others to fully mature.


  • Variety "Memory Shatilova." Also very popular variety   for cultivation in the Urals. It is recommended for novice gardeners. it early variety, the berries fully ripen in about 100 days. Differs in a good harvest even in the conditions of cool and rainy summer. It has good winter hardiness. On the shoots mature enough large clusters, the weight of one can reach about 600-700 grams. Berries of a light golden shade, the taste is very sweet.


  • Variety "Muscat white". Another excellent variety for cultivation in the southern Urals. It is an early variety, full ripening of berries occurs in about 90-100 days. On the shoots formed clusters, the weight of which averages 300 grams. The berries are round, rather large, white. To taste very sweet with a slight nutmeg flavor.
  • The grape variety is Muscat Pink. Early variety, the ripening of which takes about 110 days. It has good winter hardiness. The clusters are large, conical in shape, the weight of one can be approximately 700 grams. Berries have a pink shade, large in size. It tastes sweet with nutmeg flavor.


  • Variety "Beauty of the North." Also, an early variety, for ripening the berries which need about 110 days. The variety has a stable and good yield, resistant to low temperatures. Clusters of medium size, the weight of one can reach about 500-600 grams. Berries of an oval form and a light shade with very pleasant taste.
  • Variety "Negro". Refers to medium early varieties, the ripening period is approximately 125 days. The cluster is rather large, by weight it may be 600 grams, it consists of berries of a brown shade. The berries taste very sweet.

Reproduction of grapes in the southern Urals: common methods

In order to understand how to plant grapes in the Urals, it is important to clearly understand all possible ways of propagation of this crop. Grapes can be diluted independently by seeds, cuttings, layering and grafting. However, most of these methods are not suitable for growing grapes in the climatic conditions of the Southern Urals. The best way out in this case is to use reproduction by lignified and green cuttings.

The reproduction of grapes in the southern Urals lignified cuttings

  • First of all, you need to prepare cuttings. This usually coincides with the formation of grapes in the Urals, i.e. with its pruning.
  • It is necessary to choose good ripened shoots with a thickness of at least 7-10 mm with an internode length of about 7-10 cm. After that, the shoots should be cut into cuttings, the length of which should be 10-15 cm. At the same time, there should be 3-4 buds on each cutting.
  • The lower cut should be done at an angle of 45 degrees.
  • Next, the cuttings need to be prepared for storage. To do this, they are soaked for a day in water, after which they are disinfected with a weak solution of copper sulphate. Sure to planting material   need to dry, wrap in paper and cover with foil.
  • Store cuttings should be at a temperature of 0-5 degrees in the refrigerator or basement.
  • In the spring in the Urals, grapes can begin to root. This period falls approximately in February-March.
  • Remove the cuttings from the shelter and carefully inspect them, then treat them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and put them in a container filled with water with a drop of honey for 6-7 cm. This will allow the cuttings to be fed with water. From above it is necessary to cover them with a film.
  • After this procedure, a small incision should be made in the lower section.
  • Prepare small containers such as plastic glasses and fill them with soil mixture, which should consist of sand, peat and humus.
  • A hole is made in the soil, some sand is put to the bottom and a cutting is placed, which is also covered with sand. The upper kidney should be just a little sprinkled with sand.
  • The top cut is processed by garden pitch.
  • To ensure optimal rooting you need to organize the bottom heating.
  • In late April or early May, after quenching, the cuttings are planted in large containers and kept in a greenhouse. In September, you can land on a permanent place.


Preparatory work before planting grapes in the Urals

The climate of the Southern Urals is quite specific and requires special attention to the planting of various crops, especially such heat-loving ones like grapes. To grow and get strong shrubs of grapes, giving a rich harvest of berries, it is necessary to carry out thorough preparatory work. To do this, it is important to carefully select varieties and seedlings, as well as to choose the optimal place for their planting.

Stage 1. Selection of varieties and grapes saplings for the Urals

  • The most important step to obtaining a fruit bearing grape is right choice   varieties of culture.
  • It is important to give preference only to winter-hardy varieties, which were bred exclusively for areas with a cold climate.
  • All varieties must belong to the group of early or middle early ripening, i.e. full ripening of fruits should occur in about 90-125 days.
  • When choosing a particular grape variety for the Urals, be guided by zoned varieties that have already been adapted to all weather conditions in your area.
  • These seedlings can be purchased in the district nurseries or from familiar gardeners who have long grown grapes.
  • It is best to buy grapes saplings in February, so that young plants have time to take root.
  • It is also desirable to acquire seedlings with several young shoots.
  • Before buying it is very important to carefully inspect your chosen seedling. It should not be visible damage and signs of disease. The root system and shoots must be healthy and strong, without rotten and shriveled areas.


Stage 2. Choosing a place for planting grapes in the Southern Urals

  • The yield of grapes will depend on the right place for planting.
  • For the Urals, only the southern or southwestern part of the site is suitable, where the sun will be throughout the day.
  • The chosen place should be open and as sunny as possible, because only this way you can get fully ripe sweet grapes.
  • It is also important that the selected landing site is well protected from strong winds and drafts.
  • A dry plot is the key to the growth of a healthy grape bush. It is important to choose a place on a small hill, where there will be no frequent stagnation of moisture at the roots.
  • You should not plant grapes near large shrubs and trees, their crown will interfere with the ripening of berries.

Stage 3. Selection and preparation of soil for planting grapes in the Urals

  • Grapes prefer to grow on fertile and light soils.
  • The more nutrients and organics in the soil, the better for full growth of the plant. This must be taken into account, since the vineyard grows in one place for about 25-30 years.
  • It is important that the soil in the selected place is dry and does not trap moisture.
  • Close groundwater is unacceptable for grapes in the Urals. You can place plants near a small pond or artificial pond.
  • In order to understand what to do with grapes in the spring in the Urals, it is important to conduct a thorough preparation of the soil. Since in open ground   seedlings are planted around June-July, when the soil warms up to 15 degrees, the soil for planting needs to be prepared about 2 months before this time. The selected area must be carefully dug and loosened, then dig a landing pit or trench. The size of the pits should be 1 m deep and 1 m wide. At application of a trench on each plant should fall not less than 1 m.

How to plant grapes in the South Urals - instructions

  • The optimal time for planting grapes in the Urals is the end of June or the beginning of July.
  • After preparing the landing pit in March or April, it is important to regularly shed it with water in order to compact the soil.
  • At the bottom of the landing pit or trench, you need to pour a layer of drainage, which should be about 6-8 cm. As a drainage, you can use expanded clay, broken bricks or gravel.
  • Next, you need to prepare a soil mixture, which should consist of garden soil, humus, phosphate and potash fertilizers, as well as wood ash. This composition of the grapes will be enough to fully develop.
  • We put a sapling of grapes in the center of the planting pit and tilt it a little so that the root system faces north and the top looks south. So the grapes will be woven to the south.
  • After that, the seedlings fall asleep, while the soil must be well compacted. Its surface should be slightly below the level of the pit. Until the end of the pit is filled for next year.
  • After planting and until the rooting of the seedlings, they must be watered regularly and abundantly, after which the watering stops.


Planting grapes in the Urals - video

How to care for grapes in the Urals: the secrets and nuances of growing

Caring for grapes in the Urals is slightly different from growing them in warmer regions, but these differences are insignificant.

  • Watering. First of all, you should pay attention to watering this plant. Grapes do not tolerate excessive watering. From this shoots can turn black, and the root system start to rot. However, on the other hand, the lack of moisture can reduce the yield. Abundant watering require young seedlings immediately after planting until full rooting. After this, the grapes need 5-6 waterings per season. Basic irrigation should be carried out before the buds bloom, two weeks before flowering and two weeks after it, as well as during the ripening of the berries. It is also worth remembering that it is necessary to water strictly on the surface of the wheel circle, using warm water. Watering is best done in the evening. Water recharge irrigation should be done after pruning the grapes before preparing it for the winter - about 20 liters per bush are used.
  • Loosening and mulching. Regular loosening of the soil also has a beneficial effect on the full growth of the plant. You can loosen after each watering or more often if you see that the soil is compacted. Pristvolny circle can be mulched to avoid excessive evaporation of moisture and soil erosion. As mulch can be used sawdust, mowed grass, you can also plant green manure.

  • Top dressing. If during planting of grape saplings you applied fertilizer to the soil, it is not necessary to feed shrubs for 3-4 years - the plant has enough nutrients. During the whole season it is desirable to feed the grapes with organic fertilizers, it is much more useful for this crop than mineral fertilizers. In addition, placing the same humus in the tree circle, you simultaneously loosen and mulch the soil. The first top dressing is carried out in the spring after lifting the cover - superphosphate, potash fertilizers and nitrogen fertilizers are applied. The second dressing is carried out before the start of flowering - organic fertilizers with potash and superphosphate fertilizers are applied together.
  • Pruning grapes in the Urals. Pruning is necessary to improve the quality of the crop, the formation of the bush. The first pruning can be done in early spring, around March at temperatures above 5 degrees. It should be done very carefully. In the process, all damaged and broken shoots are removed, the sleeves that have not given young shoots. During the whole season, you can also trim the sleeves on which there are no shoots. Autumn pruning on a young plant is carried out only 1-2 years after planting.


  • Shelter for the winter. Before sheltering, it is important to spill the soil well with water and wait until moisture is absorbed. It is necessary to cover the grapes with the first frost, approximately in November-December. Vine must be laid on a layer of needles and cover with a light tarp on top. In winter, additional snow is laid on top.

Grape photo






Grapes are one of the favorite berries of gardeners and, thanks to advanced agronomy and breeding work, this wonderful plant can be grown even in the coldest regions of our country - in the Urals and in Siberia.

Grapes: preparation for winter in Gornaulov

Winter will ask strictly

I read the article by Yu. P. Nikitin "Preparing and sheltering a vineyard for the winter", published in No. 38 of the Kuznetsk Manor. Now the hot season is starting to prepare the vineyards for the winter, and many beginning winegrowers wonder: how to do it, what is needed for this? Therefore, I consider it necessary to expand the scope of this article and tell about it in more detail. So, pruning and shelter of grapes in the northern conditions.

As you know, before the shelter of the grapes need to make it pruned. What is the need for pruning grapes? Indeed, many other cultures grow and bear fruit without any pruning.

If the grapes are not cut, does he feel self-sufficient, and why should he expand the number of competitors in his living space? To nothing. Therefore, it practically does not bear fruit without pruning. When the grapes are pruned, the instinct of self-preservation and maternity is turned on, and he begins to plant flower buds.

Pruning vines in Siberia is carried out only in the fall. If the grapes are not cut in the fall, but cut in the spring, then at the shelter of the sleeves and the vines they must be tied into a bundle, and in this bundle both matured vines and dead moisture after frost, having a large supply of moisture, turn out to be together.

In the spring, when the sun begins to warm and the temperature inside the grape shelter rises above +5 degrees Celsius, mold and decay begin to form in a humid environment, one of the sources of this moist medium and not mature vines, as well as green leaves that are not removed. As a result, healthy matured vines are also affected; a rather gloomy picture can be observed when removing the shelter from the grapes: all or most of the vines and sleeves are covered with gray, black, sometimes green patches with completely decayed buds. And everything will have to start all over again, if there are at least some living buds left at the base of the bush, or to wait for the underground buds to warm up and wake up. As a rule, the one who sees such a picture of a grape bush in spring, thinks that the grapes have become extinct, and the real reason is that it has rotted.

Cut vines occupy a volume of 2-3 times less than un-cut, and it is easier to cover them for the winter. Compared with the south, pruning of a grape bush differs significantly in terms of both the time and size of pruning.

In the south, pruning is carried out at the end of the growing season, when the vine will ripen well on the grapes at great length. We have the same vine does not always have time to ripen to the first frost. And the early autumn frosts ruin the green leaves and green shoots of the grape bush.

Therefore, the main task of the grower in the autumn is to create conditions to accelerate the ripening of wood to cover the vines for the winter. And for this, it is necessary to prune the grapevine in two stages: first, preliminary or lightening pruning is carried out after harvesting or weak freezing, partially damaging the foliage-   in the second half of September. Its purpose is to thin a bush and clear its base, and in general-   opening branches and shoots to the action of the sun.

Especially lightening pruning is necessary when cultivating varieties with poor maturing of the vine or after a cool summer. Before its implementation, it is necessary to remove the harvest from the bushes and remove weed vegetation near the bushes. First of all, the fully undigested (green) part of the shoots in the upper part of the plants and the stepchildren are cut, and then the bushes are carefully removed from the trellis and laid on the ground-   towards the aisle.

They completely remove the green part of the shoots from the bush, which obviously does not have time to mature before the period of shelter for the winter (except for young plants). They also cut off all the remaining stepchildren, antennae, severely twisted shoots, and also remove the main part of the foliage in the lower part of the bush (which is outdated and does not give food to the bush). Thus, they “open up” the shrub, significantly thinning it and ensuring in the subsequent access of sunlight to all branches and sprouts left. It is not recommended to completely trim young plants in the first two years of life in the fall; it is enough to remove the top, and in the second year of life, tops and stepchildren. Then put in a trench or box and close the film before freezing, under the arcs. The leaves remain green, and the growing season lasts another two weeks or more until severe frosts. In the bushes of grapes with unimportant maturation of the vine ( Baklanovsky, Kodryanka   etc.) it is advisable to carry out preliminary pruning to a fuller extent, removing, among other things, the sprouting links and leaving only the branches and shoots for fruiting, replacement and rejuvenation without tops, but with foliage.

In general, it is possible to perform lightening pruning in the vineyard as the crop is harvested from groups of bushes of various ripening times. For varieties of high winter hardiness ( Amur, American grapes, Sharov, Shatilova hybrids ) there is no need to carry out the clarifying pruning, because the vines ripen well and the autumn pruning is performed in full at one time in late September-   early October.

The final autumn pruning of grapes is performed, as a rule, immediately after a severe freeze, which killed the leaves, before the onset of cold weather. It is known that after damage to the leaves by frost, a significant transfer of nutrients from the shoots to the roots stops, so there is no point in delaying with pruning. Moreover, if during the clarifying pruning we move from top to bottom, starting with the green tops of the shoots, then during the final pruning, on the contrary, from the bottom up, cutting off the knots and fruit links.

If pruning has to be done after frosts, then first of all damaged foliage is removed from the branches and vines. After trimming the branches of the bush are combined into bundles in directions, tied in 2-3 places with soft wire.

Conifers' legs or wooden blocks should be placed under the bunches to isolate the contact of the vines with the ground. This is necessary to ensure that the vine is not moldy from the ground, since after frost the air temperature can rise to +15 degrees Celsius, which is enough for the development of putrefactive bacteria. From above, bunches should be covered with pine feet or a moisture-proof material, plywood, roofing felt, slate, polyethylene and left so until the final shelter of the grapes.

Grapes are covered after the average daily temperature passes through -5 degrees Celsius, that is, when the soil is completely frozen or when the shovel does not climb into the ground. Cover the grapes with dry leaves, tops, bags of chips, etc., and on top you need to cover all the waterproof materials listed above. It should also be borne in mind that even the southernmost varieties of grape buds withstand -18 degrees Celsius, but the root system freezes at -8 degrees Celsius, therefore, it must also be covered. Great help in this is snow cover.

It is believed that 1 cm of snow keeps 1 degree Celsius temperature, so the more snow, the less temperature drops to cover the vine. And in places where the steady snow cover is above 50 cm, it is possible not to cover with warming material, it is enough waterproof material.

And finally: grapes-   this, as it seems to me, is not at all a subtropical plant (as indicated in the article), because subtropical plants (lemon, pomegranate, etc.) are evergreen, and they do not shed their leaves, especially since they do not need a dormant period with low temperatures .

V.T. Gornaulov , head of the club of winegrowers of Mezhdurechensk

Grapes in the Urals: autumn planting and care

Grapes: creating conditions for a safe wintering and autumn planting

Autumn in the Urals with regular night frosts did not completely abolish work in the vineyard. The coming time is of particular importance in preparing the Ural vineyard for wintering and, however surprising it may be, planting new vines.

I have almost every day to answer questions on the preparation of the bushes for wintering by phone: pruning the vine, pre-winter watering, fertilizing, but the main question about the seedlings received from me: What to do with them next? Either store them in wet sawdust in the basement, or take a chance and decide on an autumn planting of seedlings. I will return to the question of seedlings a little later, and now I will tell you about the preparation of a grape bush for the winter.

No matter how long the season is for your vine - whether it was overloaded with harvest, like many gardeners whose bushes entered their first fruiting and the farmer’s hand didn’t raise the flower to remove extra flower brushes, whether the bush was actively growing and raised the vines to 4-5 meters Or, for some reason, the grapevine developed poorly and increased the vines to no more than a meter - the preparation for winter comes down to these mandatory measures.

First, pruning the vine. Do not leave the vines uncircumcised or in the first year of growth of the bush, nor in the next. The part of the vine that ripened and depending on the variety was covered with bark from light brown to dark burgundy color, wintering, no doubt, but that part, which, despite the fact that it has a diameter of 8-10 mm, but remained grassy and cold to the touch will freeze, this is without options. Leaving this part of the vine, frozen out in the winter and rotting at the very first thaws, is very unsafe. Therefore, my advice to you is: do not risk and cut off all the unripe vine ends, as well as the grassy stepchildren.

The second and third, prewinter watering and application of top dressing. It is known and does not require evidence that dry soil freezes to a much greater depth than wet. This is especially true for grapes. At my site, for the period from May to the end of September, there was not a single more or less prolonged rain, the ground without watering dried to a depth of half a meter (I did not dig deeper). Rescued only by watering the grapes with heated and separated water from the tanks twice a week, and vegetables and berries directly from the well with sprinkling. When summer drought in the soil there was a clear shortage of water, and that's what you need to fill. Right now, when the soil has cooled, it can be shed under water of grapes even with a well, where the water temperature is constant within + 5-6 ° C. How many? The more, the better, but not less than 50-60 liters under the bush and into the irrigation pipe.

Pre-winter watering is desirable to combine with the introduction of root feeding wood ash. I scatter it at the base of a bush at the rate of half a bucket on a bush and loosen it slightly to a depth of 5-10 cm. After that, I irrigate abundantly around the base of the bush, and the ash along with the water goes to the root zone. Literally just before the establishment of snow cover, when the earth is already frozen, I repeat fertilizing with ash in the same proportion. In the spring, when the snow melts, potassium, calcium and active trace elements contained in the ashes, together with the melt water, will feed the bush without your participation, this feed will last for a year, but this does not exclude spring dressing with nitrogen.

After watering and applying additional dressing before the onset of stable around-the-clock negative temperature values, it is necessary to cut the vine for fruiting, remove it from the trellis and bend it parallel to the ground, securing it with wire hooks. Under the vines you need to put wooden blocks so that it does not touch the ground. Prepare a 3% solution of copper sulfate and spray it until the surface of the vines, pads under them, hooks and the ground around the vines are completely wetted. This treatment will save the vine from mold and possible decay of plant residues on the soil surface, partially destroying pests and pathogenic fungi.

Fourth. After these works, you can begin to shelter the grapes. This topic constantly worries the winegrowers, so to speak, of the new-found and those gardeners who can never decide to start grapes in their area. For ten years of my love affair with grapes, I have tried so many different kinds of shelters that my fingers are not enough, and the casket, as always, comes off easy. It is only necessary to understand the nature of the grapes and what are the threats to its activity. Namely: drought is not afraid of grapes, excessive moisture and excessive nitrogen, too, but the truth is the rod "twigs" as the tentacles of the octopus to the detriment of fruiting, grape soil accepts almost any - remember the Crimea's rocky cliffs and rich clay Moldavia, and these territories are considered to be grape a priori . The frost resistance of modern varieties offered by modern breeding is staggering: from -24 ° C for European-Amur hybrids to -40 ° C for pure Amur people.

So, what's the matter, what stands between a gardener and a sunny berry? What is the gardener's fear based on and what is the grape itself afraid of? The answer is ridiculously simple: grapes are not afraid of frost, but dampness, which is the result of an overly thorough and untimely cover. As a rule, the gardener who planted the grapes, of course, tries to cover the vines that grew during the summer with the best of intentions, and make the shelter as thick as possible. This is the main reason for the unsuccessful wintering of grapes.

With any thaw, both in the autumn and in the already occurring winter, the frozen soil thaws and the humidity of the air under the shelter, sometimes almost airtight, rises. The vine itself, without our participation, prepares for the winter, for this it evaporates excess moisture from its tissues, the tissues become more dense and more resistant to frost. In conditions of high humidity and positive temperatures, the vine absorbs moisture, especially the eyes (buds) and begins to rot, the eyes after such wintering vypravayut completely and fall off with a light touch. The gardener opens a shelter in the spring, sees blackened vines and makes a diagnosis - the grapes have died out! Not extinct, and vyprel and not himself, but only because of excessive concern for him.

Last winter, my entire collection wintered without shelter at all, the vines were bent to the ground and well covered with the very first snow. And what? Yes, everything is fine: nothing died out, shoots in the spring grew from almost every bud. May brought more trouble with its almost daily frosts, on my site it was just like that that so many shoots were frozen with well-developed floral tassels.

And, nevertheless, the harvest was. Sprouts from replacement buds grew and decent clusters matured on them. Yes, the harvest was half as small as expected on the main shoots, but it was, and the apples, cherries and plums that fell during flowering under the same frost, were left without a crop. And one wonders: what of these cultures is exotic: grapes, fully restored and yielded a crop or the usual fruit and berry crops all summer long pleased the look with only the green of leaves?

I am often asked to select the grapes most-most! And I always answer: It is impossible, each variety has its own special feature - taste, size, color, shape of a berry or bunch ... And each is good in its own way. And I advise beginners to land at least 3-5 different varieties   diversifying the picture of the crop and complementing each other, but for a start, with ripening terms - very early and early.

In this difficult year, with frosty spring and hot summer, long-proven proven varieties such as: Delight ... red, black, nutmeg, oval, Codreanka, Timur, Elegant, super early , varieties Shatilova - In memory of Shatilova and Muscat white. Augustine gave very large berries, friendship   in this hot summer was with delicious nutmeg. What's amazing Arcadia , a fairly common variety in Ukraine, it winter well and bears fruit in our Urals and Altai. But they were especially good Don Agate   with its just a landslide crop and variety White miracle   with large berries and an unusually bright floral scent. All varieties matured completely until the end of August, despite the fact that the shoots grew out of the replacement buds, since the first shoots killed the frosts.

And now, as promised, I will talk about autumn planting   grape seedlings.   A sapling with well developed roots and a matured vine tolerates wintering very well, being planted in the fall. Everything is explained simply. If you look at the root system of the seedling in your hands and the root system of the seedling that was planted in the spring and already growing in place for several months, you can see the same picture. The sapling in the first and in the second case has 3-5 well-developed cord-shaped roots from 30 to 50 cm long and about 2-3-5 mm thick, the whole fibrous system on these roots dies off in the autumn and grows back in the spring. The only difference is that one seedling is already planted, and the other is in your hands. Here and plant it safely.

Fill the pit with an earthy mixture consisting of humus, garden soil, sand (possible sifting) and wood ash, all in equal parts. After planting and abundant watering, drain the ground in the hole to the level of the soil. Both in terms of conditions and development, the newly planted seedling is no different from the seedling that has already been growing since spring.

In case you are still afraid to take risks, I began to practice winter storage of ordered seedlings. Maybe this is true. I have them all winter kept at a temperature of + 2-5 ° C, and gardeners receive their seedlings in March-April. In a word - it's up to you.

Gusev Alexey Ivanovich , Yekaterinburg city

If you are interested in grapes and decide to purchase seedlings, write - e-mail: [email protected], ICQ: 562591393 or call - 8-905-801-01-52

A source: sad-guseva.ucoz.ru

The work of bi grower L. Slepko is devoted to growing grapes in harsh climatic conditions:



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