How to cut a young cherry in the fall. Felt cherry care and growing cropping video.

Good harvest and the health of the cherry fruit garden depends on the annual pruning of the branches and the formation of the tops of the trees. A scientific approach to this procedure will allow to achieve high results and stimulate the supply of important nutrients clearly to the ripening of fruits. Recall that in the spring affects only healthy trees that can withstand this procedure. Weak or diseased plants after serious surgery may simply dry out. Therefore, during the warm season, before pruning the branches, it is necessary to ensure the garden with good feeding and watering.

If throughout the winter the air temperature did not fall below 30 degrees, then the branches of the cherry tree can be cut already in early spring in the month of March.

The main thing is that on this day there would be no precipitation in the form of rain or sleet, which could harm the rapid healing of wounds.
  If the winter was very frosty and the air temperature fell below 30 degrees, then a specialist’s recommendation is necessary, which can completely prohibit pruning this spring or move it to the beginning of sap flow.

How to prune a fruit tree

Mature trees are pruned first, because the fruit-bearing stone fruit plants release their inflorescences before vegetative buds, and here the necessary branch formation must be carried out in time. It is not scary if such a procedure drags on until the kidneys swell strongly. The main thing is that pruning does not start with the appearance of greenery on the cone, which will certainly weaken the entire fruitful tree. Delay with the procedure will lead to the loss of nutrient reserves, as well as shortening new shoots.

How to prune a young tree

Young cherry trees, which have not yet been bearing fruit, are pruned later in the spring to mature plants, gradually forming the future garden. Pruning is done from the seedlings, leaving only the five strongest branches. Such rules of fruit growing help to avoid further thickening of the crown, which is often done by inexperienced gardeners. For example, you can view video tutorials that will help to understand the nuances of caring for fruit trees.

Pruning branches and crown of fruitful excludes:

• crown thickening;
• one-sided growth of the tree;
• lower yields.

It is important to remember:

• when trimming the center conductor, it is not necessary to leave foam on it. Drying them out may lead to an additional risk of infecting the plant with a fatal infection;
• during the formation of branches and the transition from one tree to another, it is necessary to disinfect the instrument, excluding the spread of all kinds of wood diseases;
• each branch removal operation must end with wound disinfection with a garden solution, thereby helping the tree to quickly heal damaged areas of the bark.

All activities for the care of the garden are based solely on the features of their fruiting, as well as the varieties.

In the spring, before pruning the cherry orchard, it is necessary to find out which sort of cherry is planted: bush or tree. Spray cherries should not have branches longer than 50 cm, hence the formation of the future bush. When forming a young tree, it is necessary to carefully remove the young branches, because the future of the cherry and its fecundity depend on it.

Tree cherry also needs a crown tab, but here it is important not to overdo it with pruning young branches. It is not necessary to injure a tree and cut off many shoots at once. High varieties of trees, over time, need to be limited in growth and gradually form a crown up to 3 m. If the cherry grows rapidly, increasing by 40 cm per year, then pruning is carried out only thinning the branches, reaching the planned height with time. With an average rate of growth of branches up to 20 cm, shorten the first side branch on the shoots of last year. In the event that the tree has slowed down the growth even in spring or the renewal of the shoots has completely stopped, serious pruning is applied to those places where there is no branching from previous years.

What gives cropping:

1. the correct form of the tree;
2. increases yield;
3. removes old branches;
4. stimulates plant immunity;
5. increases the "youth" of the tree.

It will give a good impetus to the formation of a large number of fruits in the trees and maintain high yields throughout the entire life of the plants. If you prune in time, the young shoot will have time to accumulate enough nutrients to fill the fruit with taste and healthy color.

The fruit species of plants requires constant attention, and if you leave such a tree without care, next year yield will drop significantly. A good large cherry will delight the grower, if you follow all the recommendations of the specialists accurately. Competent pruning will not only form a beautiful crown, but will improve the immunity of the tree, preventing fungal infections and all kinds of wood diseases.

The taste of cherry is not like any other. Today, many people are offered for purchase by vacationers. different varieties  and hybrids. In order for the fruit tree to enjoy the yield, it is necessary to regularly prune it.

Pruning is one of the effective ways to successfully influence the fruiting of the crop, to control the growth and life of the plantation, the beginning and the number of ripened fruits of high quality.

Trimming can be:

• forming - the purpose of the process is the formation of the crown of a young tree, carried out in the first 3 years of life after planting;
• supporting - allows you to maintain the plant in a productive state throughout his life;
• rejuvenating - pruning in spring increases the life of the tree and provides good yields.

Why prune cherries in spring

Opinions gardeners on the need for pruning fruit plants are divided. Some believe that this is a waste of time and effort, moreover, supposedly the procedure can harm the natural growth and development of the cherry tree. Therefore, newcomers to the horticultural business mostly prefer to let the development of garden crops go to chance.

However, experts insist that pruning cherries is a mandatory procedure in spring. Another thing is that not everyone knows what the correct pruning consists in; error and negligence can result in a real decrease in fruiting.

So, cutting the dried branches and pinching off the excess shoots, thinning the crown of cherries will help:

• come to the correct form of the plant, avoid one-sided growth;
• increase fruit yield;
• increase the size of cherries;
• prevent the occurrence and reproduction of pests that are the causative agents of dangerous diseases for plants;
• pruning a cherry each spring rejuvenates the tree and inhibits its aging process.

How to cut the cherry correctly

Before embarking on pruning fruit trees, one should learn to identify vegetative shoots, where later young branches are formed. If the branches originate in the upper buds or are characterized by tree varieties, they also do not need to be cut. Actually, this is the correct pruning of cherries in the spring.

Depending on what kind of cherry in front of you - bushy or tree - are determined by the particular trimming plantings. At the tree can grow fruit-bearing branches, giving a harvest of one year. Peduncles form more often on bouquets, perennial branches. Therefore, the scheme of pruning cherry trees is different.

With pruning is better not to delay, try to start from the first year of life of the plant. By the way, this requirement is desirable to adhere to in relation to all stone fruits. You will not have time to look back, as the tree has already grown, and the crown has thickened strongly. The dense form reduces the yield of fruit trees and generally weakens them. Large fruits in this case should not be expected.

After planting the cherry tree, cut off all the shoots, leave only 5 pieces, the strongest and healthiest, it is better to leave 10 branches on the bush. The cut of shoots is distributed at the base of the seedling, the wound site is smeared with garden pitch.

Please note: branches should be placed at a distance of 10 cm from each other and rush in different directions. This will allow the main shoots to grow rapidly and further develop.

Features pruning different types of cherries

Gardeners and gardeners love to feast on the fruits of a special tree - felt cherries. If the harvest of treelike cherry tree has a sour taste, then the felt seedling has a sweetish pleasant aftertaste. The name of the "felt" planting is due to light pubescence on the leaves, velvet to the touch.

It is easy and simple to care for it, for planting give preference to the high-altitude land plots. When a tree enters the growing season, you need to follow a sufficient level of soil moisture, fertilizing and, of course, competent pruning of branches in the spring.

Primary cutting helps to form a powerful, spreading shrub, then your task is to keep it in exactly the same shape. When a cherry plant turns 8 years old, you need to resort to rejuvenating pruning. There are no root shoots on felt cherries, which greatly simplifies the life of gardeners.

Now a few words about cutting a bush tree. When the tops of the branches become bare, and the number of shoots decreases, all the remaining branches are removed by one third. Skeletal and semi-skeletal shoots are also shortened according to the scheme. Experienced gardeners advise to practice alternating shortening of skeletal branches with semi-skeletal every year.

Busy fruit plants do not accept the removal of shoots of the same age, which grow directly from the upper bud. Cutting is fraught with drying branches.

Basic requirements for proper pruning of cherries

To cut the branches did not harm the fruit tree, adhere to the basic requirements made by the specialists in gardening:

1. If the cherry rushed up, in a timely manner get rid of the shoots growing to the top.
2. Cut branches from a bush cherry that are longer than 0.5 m.
3. If you leave the side shoots, the tree will acquire the correct crown, consisting of strong 15 branches.
4. Getting rid of dry branches is necessary for prophylactic purposes.
5. Stick to a sparse-tiered or combined tree cherry growing scheme.
6. If for a year the growth of shoots does not exceed 15 cm, it is time to take up the rejuvenating pruning of the fruit plantation.

Felt cherry

Felt cherry - tree care: from seedlings to berry harvest

Other names: fluffy cherry, chinese cherry, anddo, tomentoza. Cherry felt belongs to the genus Cerasus, to the subgenera Micrpcorpus, and within the genus to the almond (Amygdalocerasus) section.

This is the name of the felted cherry received due to the characteristic pubescence of the leaves and to some extent the branches. The homeland of felt cherries is Korea and China. Widely distributed in Primorsky Krai, Amur Region, Khabarovsk Krai.

Occurs in wild species  in Central Asia and Transcaucasia. In a culture of divorcing in Japan, China, USA, Canada. The reserve of winter hardiness and ecological adaptability makes it possible to grow cherry felts in many regions of Russia. Nutritional and therapeutic value.

Felt cherry berries contain at least 12% dry matter, an average of 9 percent of various sugars, also at least 1% acid, an average of 20 milligrams per% of vitamin C, pectic substances, and a number of other vitamins.

Morphological and biological features.

Felt cherry grows as a bush with an average height of about 2 meters, but with good care it can reach a height of three meters or more. Branches are thin, with characteristic gray pubescence. The underside of the leaf blade is also pubescent.

Large flowers can reach 2 centimeters in diameter, white or pink, they appear on the bush very early. The felted cherry is a very fast-growing tree - the same-year-olds multiplied by grafting begin to give berries the following year, and seedlings for the third, maximum for the fourth.

In the bulk of the crop it ripens from mid-July to mid-August. The yield of the bush depends on the conditions of care and ranges from 5 to 20 kilograms. Felt cherry brings temperature drops to -40 degrees.

The root system is more often horizontal, very branched. Almost all the roots are at a depth of 15-20 cm.

Felt cherry varieties.

In mass culture, felt cherries are still developing as its population. The most fruitful forms of a plant selected from a population have received the names of varieties. Fruits of cherry felt, depending on the variety, ripen from July 10 to August 10.

The most widespread varieties of cherry felt Spark, Amurka, Khabarovsk, Pioneer. The varieties obtained from the hybridization of felted cherry and sand cherry are widely spread: Summer, Damanka.

Planting felt cherries and care for her.

When laying the plantation for plantation plowing, 70 tons of organic fertilizers and at least 60 kilograms of the active substance of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied. The scheme of planting felt cherry trees in industrial gardens is 4-1 m, and in home gardens in country houses and plots - 2-1 m.

You can plant seedlings in autumn and spring. When planting, 10-15 kg of humus, 45-50 grams of superphosphate and 20-25 grams of potassium salt are introduced into the pit and watered at the rate of 5-10 liters of water under the plant. Felt cherry is not capricious to the quality of the soil.

Many of the conditions for planting should be the same as for planting ordinary sorts of cherries - that is, avoid lowlands and areas with high groundwater levels, or simply damp cold places. I also recommend that when planting, in addition to the aforementioned fertilizers and compost or humus, it is also necessary to apply sand - but this should be done if the soil is clay and heavy.

Cherry felled saplings for planting take 1-2 year olds, they can be planted both in spring and in autumn - I prefer spring. During the growing season, care for the soil and at least two irrigations. It is recommended to fertilize cherry fertilizers no earlier than two, three years after planting the seedlings.

Formation of the crown and trimming cherry felted.

The purpose of the formation of bushes is to create a powerful bush, and in the future - to maintain them in a state of active growth. In the second age period (from the eighth year of life), along with the usual sanitary and regulatory pruning of the bushes, rejuvenating pruning is necessary.

Since the cherry starts to give crops very quickly - it is necessary to start forming the bush right away so that by the time it starts to bear fruit the bush is already formed and convenient for care. Therefore, I try to form a stem up to half a meter as early as possible, and delete all the shoots except the central one, but leave no more than 5-7 branches higher and even and growing in different directions.

In early spring, every year I thin out bushes, remove growing branches inside, what has broken during the winter, dries up, etc. A good beautiful bush is obtained in the third year of cultivation, as practice shows, a convenient and beautiful bush gives and the yields of berries are much larger than abandoned, dense thickets.

Reproduction of felt cherries.

This tree is relatively easily propagated by rooting as lignified and green cuttings, budding, as well as layers, and of course grafting. In my garden in the fall, I propagate under the seed — with this method of propagation, the seeds do not need to be subjected to additional stratification, they germinate better in the winter, they hardly differ in their qualities from the parent plants (crops, winter hardiness, etc.).

In principle, it is possible to propagate felt cherries with seeds (seeds) in spring, but then they will have to be stratified, at least for 80-90 days. For spring planting, you can stratify in sawdust or sand (preferably it is good to ignite it before).

General proportions are approximately as follows: 1 part of seeds for 4-5 parts of backfill (sand or sawdust). All this economy should be moistened approximately to such a state that, when squeezed in the hand, the mixture stuck together in a lump and did not fall apart.

A jar of seeds put in the fridge with a temperature of 0-4 degrees. Humidity needs to be maintained at the same level as when backfilling, and periodically mix everything up for uniform process.

Of the most harmful pests are leafworms, plum moth and aphid. In the conditions of most regions of the Russian Federation, the limiting factor in the spread of cherries is moniliosis disease, or wet fruit rot, to a lesser extent klyasterosporiosis, or perforated spotting, and pockets.

Shallow drawers, baskets of chips, and even better - special sieves serve as a container for pickup cherry fruit. When you pick up the fruits of cherry come off without a stem, so in normal room conditions  they persist no more than two days.

In special storage facilities with climate controlled fruits can be stored for up to ten days. At home, the fruit of the cherry well preserved in bags of synthetic film in the refrigerator. AT middle lane  Russian felt cherries are used most often as an edge tree in forest belts and as an ornamental planting for the design of gardens and parks.

Felt cherry siblings do not give

In nature, as we know, there is nothing useless. So with the felted cherry - even without taking into account the rather high yields of berries (which even Michurin paid attention to in his notes) and the harshness already mentioned above, the felted cherries can be successfully used not only to decorate the garden (it is unusually beautiful during flowering and it often blooms when there are no leaves on the bush - the eye cannot be torn off, but also as a stock for ordinary cherries. In this case, you get a bush ordinary cherry but without root offsprings and overgrowth, and therefore get rid of the need to fight with thickets every year, and this, as many cottage owners and gardeners know, when growing ordinary cherry, is a whole problem.

Felt cherry: useful properties

The iron content is much higher than the fruits of the apple. High yield justifies the effort and hassle caused. Care and harvesting of berries does not cause difficulties, since the tree-shrub grows no more than 3 meters, besides this, the harvest period can stretch, since the fruits do not crumble. It is planted not only for harvest, but also performed with a decorative purpose.

Felt cherry is common in parks, gardens, and hedges are planted from it. In the photo such a plant can be found in combination with other plants and shrubs.

To produce fruits, it should be planted in close proximity to ordinary cherries, since the tree is self-productive, i.e. it cannot pollinate on its own.

In addition to the many positive properties, it is worth noting the negative aspects that are associated with the care and reproduction of the shrub. Care for this cherry is to constantly carry out pruning ( see photo below). Otherwise, the tree faces the development of monoliosis, which can spread to other representatives of the stone fruit in the place of growth.

Thinning is the spring pruning of shoots (old, sick, poorly located and exhausted by previous crops). Their removal will prevent the development and occurrence of the disease.

Pruning bushes felted cherry

The formation of a beautiful and strong bush is impossible without certain rules. The video shows some of the recommendations, it is worthwhile to dwell on the following points:

1. Care of felted cherries begins from the first year of planting. In addition to fertilizer, the tree needs pruning. In the first year of growth, all the shoots are cut to a length of no more than 40 cm, they need to be completed with the formation of a beautiful and neat bush. In the second year, all side shoots are removed by 30%. The warp cherry needs annual removal of excess shoots and thinning the crown.

Shrub planting and reproduction

Considering the popularity ornamental plant, the family of felted cherries is constantly in need of expansion. Thanks to biologists, reproduction can be conducted in several directions:

• Ready cuttings, acquiring them in garden and greenhouse farms; Layers obtained from the roots of an adult plant; Seed bones ( see photo).

The collection of seeds for planting begins with the last fruits. By mid-August, they are covered with wet sand, and in this form they are kept in a cellar until early October. In late October, planted in open ground  to a depth of no more than 2-3 cm.

Planting varietal material can be propagated by cuttings, but in greenhouse conditions with a fogging system.

Felt cherry planting rules

Planting seedlings and otvodkov produced in open areas, well lit. It is necessary to exclude stagnation of water and root rotting. Successful reproduction consists in pruning the root system to a length of up to 20 cm, and pre-soaking in a clay talker.

This treatment allows you to avoid the appearance of pests. Rapid adaptation of the plant and the appearance of the disease causes a properly selected soil. To facilitate the transplant of young shoots, it is required to dig the hole to the same depth as it was planted in the nursery. Fill the hole with the planted plant with a specially prepared soil composition: several pieces of rotted manure, lime, potassium and phosphorus.

Growing bushes and young plants

Care for young shoots includes moderate watering, as excessive moisture will have a detrimental effect on the growth and health of the plant. With the onset of spring, cherries need nitrogen-based fertilizers that stimulate the growth of young shoots.

They are made after the flowering period. For this, the circumference around the trunk is loosened no more than to a depth of 5 cm in order to avoid damage to the root system. Then the soil is mulched to reduce the frequency of irrigation and eliminate the rapid evaporation of fertilizers.

Planting of the plant can be accompanied by mulching of the soil. Young shoots are successfully grafted onto other varietal trees - plum, cherry plum and ordinary cherry.

Fertilizing and fertilizing

With the completion of the fruiting period, felt cherries do not need additional feeding and nutrient input. Otherwise, when the additional dressing is received, young shoots begin to develop, which will die when frost and cold occur.

Characteristic view

Few people know that Chinese cherry belongs to the subfamily Plum. For the first time, a Chinese woman was raised, no matter how hard it is to guess - in China. But still its homeland is considered to be Korea, China and Mongolia. Here grows a wild look of this tree.

The spread of felt cherries as a cultural species occurred in the middle of the twentieth century. During this period, it began to grow in Eastern Europe and North America. Today it is one of the most common species, which mainly grows in Ukraine and Russia.

So, in the Moscow region there is a nursery where they grow a large number of varieties of this type of cherry. Chinese cherry blossoms are beautiful and early start producing crops. Very well, this species is suitable for the harsh conditions of Siberia. The feral cherry in appearance is more like a bush than a tree.

This is a fairly small shrub that can be approximately one and a half meters long. But with proper care, it can grow up to three meters in height.

Photos of felt cherries are given below. The branches, especially perennial, have a gray-brown color, they are thick and rough. But the annual shoots are green or brown-green color. Buds on the bushes are located on the bouquet and very short fruit twigs.

On the one-year shoots they are gathered together in three pieces. The buds, which are located on the sides, are fruitful, and in the middle grow vegetative.

Fruit formations live up to four years. The leaves of felt cherries are small and wrinkled, the top plate is smooth, and the bottom is pubescent. A distinctive feature of cherry felt is the presence of a fleecy and fluffy crown.

The shrub has a rather thick, spreading and oval crown. It was this crown that caused the name of this sort of felt cherry. The pubescence, in varying degrees, can be found on the leaves, pedicle, skin of the fetus, and even on the annual shoots.

Stone Care

Bloom

A flowering Chinese tree looks great. Pink Chinese buds turn into pink and white flowers. This species begins to bloom about two weeks earlier, in relation to other varieties. The flowers are pink and by the end of flowering they begin to turn white.

Flowers bloom in May (middle or end of the month, blooms profusely and within two weeks. Due to the short stem, during flowering, it seems that the color is located directly on the branches. Cherry during this period resembles a huge, well-smelling bouquet.

Fruit

A distinctive feature of this species is polymorphic berries. Also this type of fruit tree differs from other cherries in sweeter fruits. Berries are sweeter due to the fact that they contain much less acid.

Their pulp contains a large amount of useful nutrients: vitamin C, polysaccharides, etc. The color of fruits is red or pink, but sometimes they are white or black (depending on the variety).

The weight of one berry varies within 3 g. The first fruits on felt cherries appear in the second year after planting. Ripening of berries occurs at the end of June, and they can stay on the branches for a long time.

The stone is very small and quite problematic is separated from the pulp. Consuming berries of this type increases the appetite, strengthens the capillaries and improves digestion. They are suitable for making compotes, jams, jams, jams and other preservation options. Often they put cherry felts as an ornamental crop, although it is quite fertile and up to 12 kg can be harvested per season, sometimes even 15 kg of fruits With proper care for felt cherries, all 20 kg can be obtained.

Growing conditions

This species is absolutely unpretentious to the indicators of the soil tree. But they should be planted in fairly sunny places.

In the case of planting in dark areas, as well as with frequent rains, it is possible for the berries to rot directly on the branches. One of the positive properties of felt cherries is that it has a higher frost resistance than other varieties. It can tolerate temperature reduction to –40 degrees without problems.

At lower temperatures, freezing of the cambium and the core may occur. In this case, these branches should be deleted. During the flowering period a cold snap can damage the bloom.

A particularly important advantage is the high resistance of this type of cherry to coccomycosis. This type of fruit tree belongs to self-infesting. This means that there are both male and female flowers on the same bush.

For this reason, these cherries are planted close to each other and in an amount of not less than 3 to 5 shrubs. In this case, the pollinators are very close, which will contribute to fruiting.

It is characterized by the formation of a large number of shoots, which is very convenient to plant. The only thing you need to ensure that this growth does not spoil the appearance of the garden. You can cross this cherry with peach, plum, apricot and cherry plum. But it is impossible to cross it with ordinary cherries, since genetically they are very far from each other.

Video "Felt cherries"

In the video below, you can learn some details of the characteristics of the variety. In addition, this video contains information about the characteristics of the growth of felt cherries in Siberia.

Sorta

For this type of cherry is characterized by the presence of a large variety of varieties, which are inherent in certain properties and features. In terms of ripening, Chinese cherry is divided into 3 groups:

• skoroplodnaya - Delight, Alice, Children; sredneplodnaya - East, Ocean Virovskaya, Fairy Tale, Natalie, Tsarevna; Late - Altana, Beauty, Summer.

Before planting a tree, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the description of a specific type of Chinese cherry in order to know all the characteristics of the variety. For southern varieties of felt cherries, similarly, as for plum varieties, early ripeness and the formation of a large number of fruits that form on the tree during the fruitful period are typical. In this case, the felt variety looks like a tree with a wide and spreading crown.

In these varieties, the fruits are very sweet and tasty. The content of nutrients (vitamins, trace elements) is the largest.

This type includes the following varieties: cherry felt Natali, Tsarevna, Lyubskaya, Apukhtinskaya, Alisa, Bagryanaya. Also, the differences of varieties are also resistant to diseases. For example, the Robin variety, belonging to early varieties, has the lowest susceptibility to coccomycosis.

It is this property that increases the attractiveness of such species. The most classic variety of felt cherry is Vladimirskaya, which is most widely distributed in Europe and East Asia. In the Moscow nursery you can find all of the above varieties. Varieties that are designed for planting in the middle lane, have high winter hardiness.

These include Beacon, Nezabykaya, Polevka. Recently, a great popularity new variety  Chocolate girl, which can grow in height by 2.5 meters. Its fruits are maroon and sometimes almost black in color, which determined its name. Before planting a particular variety in one's garden, one should familiarize oneself with its characteristics and useful properties.

Care

As mentioned above, this variety in the care is an unpretentious tree. A Chinese tree is easy to grow at home. Taking care of felt cherries begins from the time it is planted in your garden.

Pruning roses

It is possible to plant felted cherries in spring and autumn, in rare cases - at the end of summer. It is best to plant felted cherries in light sandy and loamy soils. You should not plant it in peat bogs or wet grounds.

Its location should be well lit, and the stagnation of water must be prevented. If the cherry is in the shade, then its branches will be lengthened, and the yield and quality of the fruits will decrease. With proper care, the felted cherry will start to bear fruit in the second or third year.

But even with a bountiful and high-quality harvest, the care of felt cherries should not be stopped. This tree will bear fruit annually, and its annual yield will average about 10 kg.

But if the cultivation of felt cherries is correct, then we can expect a harvest of up to 14 kg. For adult cherries, care should be taken in the fall and spring, but only after the flowering is complete. During this period, should be rejuvenating and formative pruning, as well as to carry out the necessary fertilizing.

Do not forget about the prevention of various diseases and protection from pests. Watering the tree is abundantly needed immediately after planting and during periods of drought. At other times, moderate watering is required. By doing all this, you will not only be able to increase the yield of the tree, but also improve the characteristics of its fruits and significantly extend the fruiting period.

Pruning

It is important not to forget about pruning Chinese cherries. Pruning a bush or tree occurs in the fall or spring. It is carried out both with the purpose of thinning the crown, and for rejuvenation. It is also produced with a strong increase for the year.

In the bush should be at least 6 strong skeletal branches. Annual shoots are shortened to 40 cm. The following year, the side branches are cut by 1/3.

Broken, dried and painful branches must be removed and burned to prevent infection. Pruning, for better fruiting, should be done every year. Spring pruning is carried out, leaving 8 strong skeletal shoots. Rejuvenating pruning is carried out only in adult bushes or trees.

In the course of its cut branches of the first and second rows, which go to the first branching. With a large number of branches, it can be carried out twice a year. But we should not get involved in this process to prevent the cherry from freezing.

Top dressing

After the seedling has been planted, produce an annual feeding of the fruit tree. It consists in introducing into the soil organic and mineral fertilizers rich in nitrogen. Top dressing is distributed around the perimeter of the trunk circle.

To loosen the soil should be at a depth of 5 cm. But this should be done carefully so as not to damage the roots. In autumn, fertilizing is carried out with the help of fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen, so as not to stimulate the growth of branches in the winter. In winter, Chinese cherries are not fertilized.

Breeding

The reproduction of this type of cherry is carried out in the following ways:

• using seeds; vegetative; cuttings.

The most effective is the stone path, as the seedlings are already accustomed to environmental conditions. However, trees planted in this way are more likely to be affected. Only large seeds are involved in planting.

In early autumn, they are subjected to stratification, placing in wet sand. First, the bones are cleaned of pulp and dried. Before planting, they should be stored in a cool and dark place. At the end of autumn, they are planted in the ground at a shallow depth, 2 cm apart.

They should be filled with sawdust, foliage and humus. Seeds after stratification should be planted on permanent place  growth in early spring. During the summer, the seedlings germinate 1 cm. With proper care, they can reach 40 cm in one year.

They are planted in spring or autumn. When breeding with green cuttings, excellent varietal material is obtained. But this can be achieved only in the greenhouse, which is equipped with a fogging installation. As you can see, felt cherry, due to its characteristics and properties, will be a useful acquisition for your garden.

Spreading branches of flowering cherry are a charming decoration of any garden. A variety of varieties will please even the most demanding gardener. Interestingly this tree is also a form. It can be represented as a stately tree or a spreading bush. In order for the cherry to please not only with its shape, but also with its abundance of harvest, it should be carefully and carefully looked after. Care mainly includes annual pruning.

Crop of a cherry tree: why, how and when

The correct pruning of cherries in the spring is extremely important for the health and vitality of the plant. Photos of the process, posted later in the article, will demonstrate everything visually. This procedure allows you to create the correct form of the crown, inside which air will circulate well and into which enough light will penetrate to ripen the fruit. The crown can begin to form in the fifth year after planting.

Being a heat-loving culture, cherries do not tolerate frosts and pruning procedures well, so it is better to start later, for example, in the second half of March, when the possibility of frosts returning is minimal. But the terms are variable depending on the climatic zone. A prerequisite is the start of pruning before the start of the sap flow process.

First of all, dried, diseased branches that can infect an entire tree, and damaged, “drinking” nourishing juices, are pruned. All cuts should be smeared with garden pitch or ointment for pruning, but not on a bitumen basis. The processing process depends largely on whether you grow a bush tree or a tree cherry in your garden.

Pruning spring cherry tree

The processing of cherries is complex, painstaking and requires careful.

1. The first level of branches begins at a distance of 70 cm - 1 m above the ground. The branches below are deleted.
2. Trimming is carried out at an angle. Removes all interlocking branches.
3. Special attention is paid to giving the crown a vase-like shape.
4. Annual shoots shorten slightly. This allows you to get a sufficient number of side branches and new bouquet twigs.
5. The trunk height of 3.5 meters or more requires limiting growth vertically.

Pruning Cherry

Requires ruthless thinning bush cherry. The spring pruning of trees of this variety has a number of features, since they are prone to thickening, which, in turn, leads to shallowing of the fruits and a decrease in yield.

1. The lower branches must move away from the trunk at an angle of 40 degrees maximum, otherwise the tree may break over time.
2. Creating a good, powerful skeleton requires pruning branches that compete with the main trunk.
3. Two-year seedlings are pruned branches that have reached a length of half a meter. They can be shortened by a third.
4. Removed all shoots growing to the ground.
5. Semi-skeletal and skeletal shoots are shortened to dormant buds.
6. You can leave shoots only in plants that have reached 80 cm in height.
7. We work well sharpened tool.

The specifics of pruning young cherry

Pruning cherries in the spring when planting will ensure the formation of a strong, abundantly fruiting adult plant with a good crown and strong root system. First of all it follows:

• identify the branch leader. This will be the strongest vertical branch;
• for the crown, leave 5 branches, located at a distance of 10 cm from each other and directed in different directions.
• branches, growing at an angle or diagonally, cut;
• shoots located on the base of the trunk, remove to enhance the power of the entire tree;
• be sure to cut intersecting branches.

It should be remembered that the bush cherry, unlike the tree, fruits only on annual shoots, which means that the pruning of cherries in the spring should be more thorough. In general, pruning should be approached carefully and cautiously, as it is now that the growth and fruiting of the plant is being laid. Errors in the process can be a major cause of low yields.

Rejuvenation of old wood

A mature cherry tree also requires a phased rejuvenation process. Pruning in the spring will provide increased yields. One thing general rule  is for all cherries and tree and bush: do not remove a lot of branches at once.

The bare ends of the branches of a bushy cherry indicate the need for pruning. The number of branches is reduced by shortening the length of the shoot by half or one third. Skeletal and semi-skeletal branches should be removed to the level of dormant buds. They should be removed in different years, that is, skeletal branches are cut off in one year, in the other - semi-skeletal. Otherwise, the plant does not have enough strength for fruiting.

Tree varieties rejuvenate a little differently. Annual shoots are shortened quite a bit, because it is on them that the fruits will later appear. The crown should be rejuvenated if the bases of the skeletal branches are bare, and their annual growth does not exceed 15 cm. In case of drying out of the branches in the middle of the crown, the side branches on five-year-old wood should be cut.

The specifics of trimming felt varieties of cherries

Felt cherry has fragrant, juicy and tender fruits. Fruiting begins the next year after planting. Yield is high. All this is obtained with proper care and timely pruning. Pruning felt cherries in the spring should be made annually and be strong, as the crown of the plant is thickened. The harvest is mainly formed on the annual shoots, and their greater number will provide greater yield. However, they still need to be shortened by one third, if the length of the shoot exceeds 60 cm. Pruning cherries in spring means removing all old, diseased, damaged, cracked or dried branches, as well as those that are directed inside. On old felt cherries, side shoots are removed on the ring, while the central part of the crown and peripheral skeletal branches should not be affected. After thinning should remain 12 strong shoots.

If you want a beautiful fruiting cherry to grow in your garden, pruning should be done in the spring taking into account the condition of the tree, its age and variety. A well-formed young trees will consistently receive a high yield of ripe and juicy berries.

fb.ru

Cherry gives incredibly tasty and valuable berries. Now cherry is widely popularized, there are many varieties. To get quality and big harvest, it is necessary to correctly and timely carry out pruning. With the help of pruning, you can adjust the growth of the tree, the timing and amount of fruiting, etc.

Cherry can be cut with the arrival of early spring in the event that the winter was relatively warm. Usually this time falls on the second half of March, when there is still a bit of snow, but you can not be afraid of night frosts.

If it is snowing or raining on the chosen day, it is better to refrain from pruning, because this will only complicate the workflow, and the wounds on the trees will grow worse. After excessive cold wintering  pruning can not do at all, or do it only after sap flow.

Pruning should be done before the kidneys swell.

Too late pruning will cause the loss of a large amount of nutrients, which will eventually lead to a weakening of the tree. In the event that pruning did not work in the early spring, then there is still a chance to fix everything in late May - early June.

Any culture has its own distinctive features of pruning, which is connected, of course, with the process of fruiting. Experts recommend pruning young cherry trees a year after planting. This will help the correct formation of the crown and prevent its thickening.

Branches that grow inward must be trimmed.

Young shoots that appear on the shtambe, break off in the summer or a year in the spring. To prevent the growth of the tree in height, shoots need to cut those that grow up. In varieties of cherries that grow with bushes, branches longer than 50 cm are pruned. In order to give the crown of the required shape, several side shoots are left on the main trunk. In order to prevent the need to prune damaged and dry branches.

How to cut the cherry:

• Form a crown of cherries for five to six years after planting.
• Bush cherry cherry leaves about 8 main branches, tree - about 6. Considering the fact that the upper part of the trunk must be 20 cm higher than the tips of these branches.
• Branches that grow up, you need to cut in the place of branch, and leave directed to the peripheral part of the crown.
• The height of the trunk should be approximately 40 cm, since This is the most vulnerable spot for cherries.
• You can shorten growth only in young trees up to three or four years. Overgrown root shoots cause a weakening of the fruiting, so it must be periodically removed, but only in grafted trees.
• Trees in the fruiting period, taking into account the good growth of the shoots, can only be thinned, cutting the extra branches into a ring.

There is such a thing as "rejuvenating pruning", which means cutting branches while reducing growth to 15 cm. The main branches must be shortened above the first lateral branching. It will take more serious pruning, if the growth of branches ended about two or three years ago ..

These branches are cut to the place where the growth of the side branches ended. To prevent the gum treatment, you need to clean the wounds and wipe them with garden pitch. You also need to remove hemp in place of the cut branches, otherwise they can slow down the healing of woody wounds.

Young cherries are pruned immediately after planting, which will help the grower to create the necessary crown shape, as well as help the roots to transfer the planting more easily and adapt to the new site, because remote branches do not need to be supplied with useful substances. Planted seedlings and remove the branches must be before the formation of buds. Seedlings pruned so that they remain about five well-developed skeletal branches.

Unnecessary growths are cut off, and wounds on the trunk are covered with oil paint or, as stated above, with garden pitch.

Uncut branches should be 10 cm apart. In the spring it is necessary to ensure that the shrub is not overgrown, and the crown is correctly formed. Branches growing inward must be removed. Shoots growing on the headquarters should be cut.

To control the growth of young trees need to shorten them from above. In shrubs, it is better to remove shoots longer than 50 cm. During the whole growth of the cherry tree, new branches should be left until they are more than fifteen. Pruning should be done very carefully and carefully, otherwise you can harm the future growth and fruiting of the tree. Any negligence and error can lead to a decrease in yield.

Old trees should also be cut in a special way:

1. They are pruned to rejuvenate and increase yield.
2. It will be necessary to rejuvenate the formation of crown shrubs in the event that the branches become bare and the tree begins to bear much less fruit.
3. Productivity is restored by reducing the number of branches and shortening them by one third or half the length.
4. In addition to shoots need to remove the main branches to the place of formation of buds.
5. Skeletal and semi-skeletal branches must be removed in different seasons, otherwise you can significantly weaken the tree and reduce yields.
6. One-year gains are strictly forbidden to cut.

Pruning a tree variety with a rejuvenating purpose is completely different. Annual shoots are shortened a little, due to which new branches and lateral ramifications grow, which will also be excellent fruits. It is necessary to rejuvenate the crown if the skeletal branches are bare at their base.

An old cherry cannot be cut off too many shoots at a time during pruning; this should be done in several stages and over several years.

Felt cherries must be cut annually. This is explained by the fact that it is this culture that is distinguished by its ability to thicken rapidly. Most of the crop is produced on annual shoots, because shoots that are 60 cm long are cut off by one third. When cutting branches, you need to leave about 15 well-developed shoots. Old, damaged and damaged branches should be removed.

The rejuvenating pruning of perennial shrubs of felt varieties allows for a great harvest throughout the life of the cherry.

Some gardeners still believe that pruning cherries is a useless activity that will only harm the tree. And others generally believe that it will reduce the harvest. But all this is completely wrong.

Pruning trees is a must, it only helps him to grow and develop better. And every gardener respecting himself should know the details of this process.

More information can be found in the video.

MegaOgorod.com

Crop pruning: increasing yields with a haircut

  Pruning cherries is an important part proper carePruning cherries is an important part of proper gardening care. Despite the widespread opinion of the traumatic factor of pruning, cherry trees need to be formed, and it must be carried out in accordance with the basic rules and requirements.

General requirements

Novice gardeners often make mistakes when pruning, as a result of which the tree can weaken and endure the winter period and even die.

The need for pruning

There are several goals for which pruning is carried out, but they all suggest improving the condition of the cherry tree:

• correct formation of the crown of the plant;
• extension of the period of fruiting;
• preventing depletion of cherry wood;
• reducing the risk of pests and diseases;
• achieving a well-groomed and neat appearance of the plant.

After pruning, a cherry tree redistributes a considerable part of its vital forces to the formation of a crop that becomes more qualitative and stable.

So, with the observance of the rules of pruning, which should take into account the characteristics of the growth of the plant and its level of fruiting, this event contributes to improving the viability of the tree and has a beneficial effect on fruitfulness, extending the indicators of the productive period.

Tool

• garden knife, necessary when cutting thin branches;
• a saw for trimming large branches of a tree;
• garden pruners.

The entire instrument should be kept clean and as sharp as possible. In addition, during the work, you will need to use a garden pitch, which is used to process all cutting sites.

Features pruning bush and tree cherry

Spray Cherry

When the end part of the branches is exposed, it is required to shorten them by a third or half of the length of the shoot, depending on the size. Skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are shortened to the lateral branch, which is characterized by good development and growth in the upward direction. Allowed pruning to the level of sleeping buds.

Pruning of skeletal and semi-skeletal branches alternate by year,  which will allow the plant to transfer the procedure more easily. The resulting annual increments are not subject to removal. To increase branching, it is necessary to cut off the shoots that are longer than half a meter. Trimming to the side branch is more effective, rather than circular.

Tree cherry

In addition to thinning thickened crown, correct pruning removes the fork, and also contributes to the strengthening of the fruit branches and the formation of the subordination of the branches. Only long branches are shortened.

When reaching one-year increments of 15 centimeters in length and exposing the base of the skeletal branches, a rejuvenating pruning for five-year-old wood is performed. A tree pruning growth is done when the plant reaches a height of 3 meters.  In this case, pruning is effective by transferring the main and skeletal branches to pronounced side branches.

How to cut cherry in spring (video)

Features pruning fruiting and old cherries

When performing pruning, it is very important to focus not only on the type of plant, but also on its age characteristics. Attention and timely shortening of the branches require not only newly planted plants, but already old ones that require rejuvenation.

Young cherry

The basis for trimming young cherries is to form the correct crown, as well as the prevention of excessive thickening, which requires cutting branches growing inside. Ensuring proper growth from the first year contributes to the uniform development of the tree and reduces the risk of problems with fruiting. At this stage it is important to identify the skeletal branches.

Old cherry

Old trees need careful maintenance and rejuvenating pruning.  On such plants is required to prune all the old and no longer fruiting branches. Sore branches require special attention, which should be cut to healthy wood. If on old cherry  there are branches, strongly tilted down, with a low level of nutrient intake, then they must also be removed.

Fruiting cherry

When pruning fruit-bearing cherry trees, you should reduce the length of bare branches, as well as shorten the path of nutrient inputs from the roots to the crown. Developed annual growths are minimally cut.

1. When pruning a fruit-bearing tree cherry, the growing branches should be directed outwards. Strongly contiguous branches should be diluted by cutting over the side branches. With a strong exposure of branches, pruning of skeletal ramifications should be maximized.
2. With a decrease in growth on the skeletal branches of a bushy fruiting cherry up to 20 centimeters, there is a continuous exposure of the branches, which requires a weak rejuvenation in the form of partial pruning of the skeletal branches of the first and second orders. At the same time, it is necessary to thin the crown as much as possible by cutting the thickening branches.

With a well-formed crown, the fertile value of the exposed end parts of the old branches becomes insignificant and the main yield is observed on the branches of renewal.

When prune cherries

Equally important are the timing of the cutting of cherries. Spring pruning allows the tree to quickly move away from the winter rest period,  and carrying out the procedure in the autumn helps the plant to prepare for winter. The scheme of pruning cherries in the fall and spring has insignificant differences.

Scheme pruning cherry autumn

Terms of pruning may vary depending on the region of cultivation. In the southern regions such work is allowed until the last decade of October. In the northern region to finish all work on pruning should be in mid-September. The main indicator is the stage of slowing sap flow of cherries, which characterizes the end of the growing season.

The standard autumn pruning scheme is as follows:

1. Pruning of all large branches that interfere with the normal development of the rest, with the exception of the crown-forming skeletal branches. A remote branch should have a replacement, which will increase the rejuvenating effect and will not adversely affect the yield of the tree.
2. It is necessary to remove all branches extending from the stem at an acute angle.

After completing the autumn pruning, all cut areas should be thoroughly treated with garden pitch or other special means.

Cherry Spring Cutting Technology

Spring pruning is key to plant formation.  The annual implementation of such pruning in April allows you to get richly fruiting and beautiful tree.

The standard spring pruning scheme is as follows:

1. Removal of all branches thickening the tree crown, with the exception of branches parallel to the soil.
2. Removal of branches that prevent the full development and growth of the rest.
3. If the main trunk rises above the frame branches for more than 20 centimeters, then you need to trim it.

Pruning should be completed before the period of active sap flow. Special attention is required pruning felt cherries, excessive thickening of the crown has a negative impact on the yield of the plant.

Care after trimming

Not later than a day after pruning, all sections should be thoroughly treated with antiseptic preparations, covered with oil paint or garden pitch. As a rule, no peculiarities in the care of cherries after pruning are required.

Autumn Pruning Cherry (video)

DachaDecor.ru

Handmade cherry pruning scheme | Homemade, crafts for giving, do it yourself

Cherry, like others fruit trees, needs periodic pruning.

Everyone knows that they produce this procedure in the fall and spring.

But, it turns out, the stone fruits, to which the cherry tree belongs, are also cut in summer. How and why to do it?

Types of pruning

• non-selective pruning;
• selective processing.

Thinning is to remove the entire branch. Such processing makes the trees more compact, but is not accompanied by regrowth of young top branches, from which you can get fruit branches. Used infrequently.

Non-selective pruning of cherries consists in cutting a branch over any bud. It is produced in order to get young fruitful shoots. They grow from the buds under the pruning site. The growth direction is determined by the kidney, which is under the cut. The size of the tree with such pruning is not reduced, but it becomes more fluffy.

Selective pruning is to remove parts of branches selectively. Usually make a cut over the side branch. Its diameter is two times smaller than the diameter of the shoot, which is removed. Thin branches are cut to the bud. As a result, the height of the tree decreases, it becomes thicker.

Cherry is cut, leaving no stumps, in the place of which hollows may later be formed.

Why carry out the procedure

Cherry itself is not very tall and quite fluffy. Maybe it shouldn't be cut off at all? It turns out that cherry is a short-lived plant. She begins to bear early, but quickly grows old. The tree lives about 15 years. Then it stops producing and the whole cherry dries. Care and cultivation, pruning are aimed at ensuring that the tree lives and bears fruit as long as possible.

There are different and rather contradictory opinions about the results of the cherry pruning. Some gardeners are her opponents. Others believe that the harvest after the procedure is increased several times. And finally, there are gardeners who claim that if the cherry is properly cut, it will give less berries, but it will live longer.

Undoubtedly, it is necessary to form its crown correctly from the beginning of a cherry's life. Berries on this tree grow large and tasty.

Pruning helps get rid of sick and infected branches. Together with them a large number of pests are removed.

Spring pruning

Pruning cherries in spring is very important. It starts in April when the kidneys swell. Then it becomes noticeably frozen branches that need to be removed. But you need time to active movement of juices. Otherwise the tree will be weakened.

Typically, this scheme is used pruning cherry. Remove branches, thickening crown, and those that grow inside. They are removed completely. After pruning, the tree should have only branches located horizontally or at an angle of at least 45 degrees. After all, those that grow under more acute, often break off from the severity of the fruit.

Shorten the shoots, the length of which is more than 30 cm. Remove branches that interfere with the growth of others. Then shorten the trunk so that it is 20 cm higher than the side branches.

All these procedures must be done before the onset of active sap flow. Otherwise, the tree will weaken and get sick.

Anti-aging pruning

Cherry pruningThe branches of which grow less than 20 cm in a year are called rejuvenating. Such branches become bare and no longer bear fruit. In addition, the tree becomes less resistant to winter frosts.

Anti-aging pruning  may be weak, medium and strong.

To make a weak rejuvenating pruning, cut growth for the last 2 years. For moderate clean branches that have grown over 4 years. With a strong anti-aging pruning remove growth for 6 years.

Remove all weak or branchless branches. The rest must be cut to the first strong branching.

After such a strong pruning necessarily a large number of young strong shoots. But they do not need so much. Therefore, in the summer the extras are removed. In addition, they all usually grow vertically.

In order to change the direction of their growth, it is necessary in the summer to bind the left top, carefully take it as far as possible from the conductor and fix it in this position, tying the rope to a peg in the ground or another object.

Felt (bush) cherries in the first year are pruned to 50 cm. In the second year, a quarter of the side branches are removed.

Flower buds are formed from felt cherries at the ends of last year's shoots. Vegetative plants are also formed there, from which leaves grow. If the tree is weak, the branches sprout up to 20 cm, then only flower buds are formed. Leaves grow nowhere, and in summer the branches remain bare.

On annual shoots up to half a meter almost all the buds are vegetative, so the yield on them is small. The optimal length of branches - up to 40 cm.

Thickened crown adversely affects the yield of the tree. Therefore, when pruning leave only strong branches. They are shortened to 10 cm. The rest are removed completely.

Felt cherries, like all stone fruit, are pruned twice a year. Her pruning in the fall is carried out at a time when the growth of shoots has already stopped, and the frosty weather has not yet arrived. If in the spring the young shoots on some branches do not grow, then the bush is cut off strongly enough. In the summer, all parts of the plant infected with a monilial burn are removed and burned. These are the branches, on which after flowering for some time all the leaves have blackened and fell off. If this is not done on time, they will soon grow back and it will be difficult to distinguish them from healthy ones.

Pruning cherries in summer. Scheme. The main features of the procedure

The summer pruning scheme takes into account that removing the main (skeletal) branches during a hot season is not very beneficial for the health of the tree. Wounds will be delayed for a long time. But pruning cherries in the summer is still carried out. It includes crown correction and removal of diseased and broken branches.

If the crown of a tree is formed correctly, it abundantly bears fruit and gives increments of at least 30 cm. It is a properly developing cherry. Pruning and care in the summer consists of pinching unnecessary shoots. All main branches of the crown should be directed outwards. Those that grow inward, you can try to send in the right direction. To do this, they are pruned above the kidney or branch, growing away from the trunk. But this is not always possible. In this case, these branches are removed completely.

Ensure that all branches are well lit by the sun for most of the day. This will improve the quality of the fruit and allow more flower buds to form. It is the shortening in the summer of annual shoots of tree-like cherries to get them as much as possible. A fruit branch will grow from each bud below the cut.

Pinching of young, not refreshed shoots is easily tolerated by a tree, does not leave wounds, therefore it can be performed all summer.

At this time, remove the broken branches. If the cherry is very “curly”, then thin it out. You can break out young shoots, thickening crown.

Particular attention is paid to combating various diseases. Pruning cherries in the summer involves removing diseased branches. They are cut and burned so that the causative agents of ailments do not hit the other trees in the garden. This is the main reason why cherry is pruned in the summer. The scheme of the formation of the crown and bush is to reduce the height of the tree, rejuvenate the branches, the harvest was stable.

Pruning in the fall

In the fall, the cherry is cut so that it can withstand the least severe frosts with minimal losses. But it must be done correctly. Otherwise, the plant may not survive the winter.

The timing of the autumn pruning depends on the region. In the south, you can cut the cherry in September and October, in the northern areas - in the first half of September. It depends on sap flow. It should be completed at the time of pruning. But to delay with this procedure is impossible. After all, loose wounds can lead to the drying of the branches.

Pruned in the fall of large non-skeleton branches, thickening the crown. Also remove those that grow at a right angle to the trunk.

Protection of the cut point

All wounds are treated with garden barb. No less effective, and other similar means that will protect them from frost. Their use is mandatory.

Pruning seedlings

Young trees of the same age for the winter is not pruned so that they do not freeze. For the next few years, a saw or sharp knife is used for cutting. When working with shears, it is easy to damage the soft and soft bark of the tree.

In spring, young saplings are pruned later than old ones. After all, they still do not have fruit buds, which bloom much earlier than the leaf buds.

For the formation of the crown choose 6 branches, which later will be the main. The distance between them should be from 8 to 15 cm. All the rest are cut out completely, on the ring. The branches directed inside the crown are removed. If there are two parallel shoots, then leave one of them, the one that is located at a less acute angle.

An adult cherry tree should have no more than 10 main branches, a felt bush - up to 15.

The growth of the cherry breadth is not limited. The crown is thinned for easy care and harvesting. It is better to limit height from the same considerations.

Trim Features

Different types of cherries are cut in different ways.

In treelike cherry fruits are formed on fruit branches. They live and bear fruit for several years. They can be distinguished by their appearance.

Flower buds are bigger and rounder than vegetative ones. Often they are located with a halo around the apical bud. Then a new sprout grows from it, on which flower buds form.

Tree cherry, which has not been cut for a long time, is treated carefully, gradually bringing its height to three meters. If you cut all the branches at once, the tree will hurt.

Much better tolerated pruning felted cherry. Care and cultivation, pruning of these bushes in many ways different from those for the tree.

Trees more easily tolerate radical pruning, but their branches are still shortened in two sets. One year cut frame, the next - minor. Young fruit trees are not removed to get a harvest on it.

For the year, the branches of the cherry must increase in length from 25 to 50 cm. If the tree is not cut at least a year, the harvest will decrease significantly.

But if for several years in a row it is correct to carry out this procedure in the spring, then the autumn pruning of the cherry may not be necessary.

Each removed diseased branch is replaced by another. This allows you to rejuvenate the tree and get a good harvest.

handmade-garden.ru

Cut the cherry in the spring, once a year

Therefore, experts can not understand why many gardeners ignore this, in general, not

Very difficult, but necessary method of increasing fruiting.

Cherry enough to trim once a year. Do this in the spring before the awakening of the kidneys. If there is

The fear that the tree was frozen in winter, pruning should be carried out later.

When the buds grow and the frozen ones are easy to see, then they start pruning,

At the same time deleting branches affected by frost.

For all parts of the tree to be open to the sun, it is necessary to form the crown correctly.

Form the crown of the cherry when and how

In bushy varieties of cherries in the crown leave 7-8 skeletal branches, in tree cherry -5-6.

In this case, the central conductor (the upper part of the trunk) should be 15-20 cm higher than the ends of the skeletal branches.

The branches growing upwards are cut off at the place of branch separation, leaving the crown directed toward the periphery.

Shtamb (part of the trunk to the first skeletal branch) is the most vulnerable spot of a cherry because of its

The height of trees growing in the middle lane should be 30-40 cm.

The shortening of annual increments in cherries is carried out only in the young (three and four)

Age With a length of annual branches of 50 cm or more, they are shortened by a third for better branching. Annual twigs in fruiting bushy varieties are not shortened, so as not to cause desiccation.

Grafted trees systematically remove root shoots, causing weakening

Fruiting. When forming the height of the trees limit 2-2.5 m.

In fruit-bearing trees with good growth of annual shoots (30-35 cm per year) are limited

Thinning, cutting branches thickening crown on the ring.

With a decrease in growth of up to 15 cm, the beginning of the exposure of the branches make rejuvenating pruning.

Skeletal branches shorten over the first lateral branching in the growth of the last year. With

Severe exposure, when branching stopped 2-3 years ago, a more cardinal pruning is needed.

Skeletal branches are shortened to the place where the formation of lateral ramifications has disappeared.

But rejuvenating pruning (especially for trees that have not been pruned for several years)

One year, and for 2-3 years, otherwise the cherry can cause gum treatment.

Also, so that it does not

To provoke, the wounds after trimming are cleaned and smeared with garden pitch, oil paint. When cutting the damaged branches you cannot leave hemp - this prevents the healing of wounds.

Root own cherries, in which the branches begin to dry, are rejuvenated by root

Siblings.

To do this, leave the 2-3 most branched and pruned form of new branches.

A few years later the cherry turns into a bush with uneven-aged trunks coming from the ground. In the future, each of them is cut in accordance with his age.

Anatoly Mikheev, Ph.D. of science

Continuation of the article ...

• How to protect cherries from pests and diseases

bestgardener.ru

Is it possible to rejuvenate a 20-year-old sweet cherry?

Valery Svistunov

For one year, pruning apparently will not work. But cut it off too much, how frightened you are here - don't worry. Verified Several times I tried to completely remove the trees, not only the cherry. He left a high stump to bind a newly planted tree to it. On the stump was not a single twig. And suddenly, from whence, don’t get out in the summer, 2-3 or so more new branches would come out. As a reward for such persistence had to leave them. Some pereprivivat other varieties. Pereprivit several branches and you need - in other varieties. Then it will not be necessary pollinators. All stone fruit needs annual pruning. They love it or not "love". Otherwise, the thickening of the crown and as a consequence of the disease. If every year - then you can do a simple nip. There is no cure for pruning, if everything is done correctly. Cover all the cuts thoroughly. Thinking occurs for other reasons. With careless pruning course too

elena orlova

Anti-aging pruning is a type of pruning for perennial wood, and it is used in the case when other methods of pruning, fertilizer and watering can not be used to increase the gain. Old trees with bare skeletal branches and branches and a large number of shrunken, weak overgrowing and semi-skeletal branches can still be made to give good yields. However, before doing rejuvenation, trees should receive good care in a year - abundant fertilizer and regular watering. Rejuvenation gives a good result if the tree has a healthy, not damaged stem. The degree of anti-aging pruning depends on the condition of the tree. Science recommends rejuvenation in stages, for 2-3 years. They begin pruning with a strong thinning of the crown, cutting out all thickening, crossing and overlapping branches, shortening them to 1 / 3-1 / 2 length. Pruning is carried out on 8-10-year-old wood above the branch more flatter and located in the crown. Even if such a suitable branch is not found, it is cut all the same, hoping to get shoots at this place due to reserved sleeping buds. Cutting, shortening, do not forget to maintain the subordination of individual branches. The fouling branches thin and shorten. Due to the rejuvenating pruning, the ratio between the aerial part of the tree and the root system changes. More nutrients are supplied to the trimmed branches. In this case, there is an increase in growth, and in large numbers the tops grow, they are sent to the right places of the crown and rejected or slightly shortened. After 2-3 years, the rejuvenated trees restore their crowns and begin to give normal yields. A strong rejuvenating pruning, in which skeletal branches are shortened to 6-8-year-old wood, is severely thinned and the overgrown wood is shortened, more effective compared to a weak rejuvenating pruning. Usually, only after 4-5 years, the effect of rejuvenation appears after it. Rejuvenating pruning - shock pruning for any plant. Therefore, the gardener must perform it step by step, in a timely manner to gloss over the cuts with garden pitch

Sergey Kostenko

20 years for the cherry blossoms are the most flourishing, and at this age not rejuvenating is needed, but also simply formative ... but a few subtleties
  - she has a lot of usually sharp corners that break, and start with them
  - Cherries like all stone fruits do not like pruning, so a little and for a few years it’s necessary ...
  - in principle, the normal growth of cherries just from meters 5-6 or more, well, and trying to keep it at a lower height will not work ...

Elena the Wise

For the correct formation of the crown of cherries, it is necessary after the appearance of branches of the third order to trim the top. If such a moment was missed, then it is necessary to reduce the crown now. For pruning a tree, it is better to invite a specialist, since the cherry is allowed to rejuvenate 5-year-old wood. Do not spend a strong thinning of the crown and shortening the branches, so that the cherry is not sick with cicatrine.

Nikolay Tsuprunov

If a tree is great then this event will prolong its life and fruiting period.