What a fertilizer when planting garlic in the fall. We grow garlic: planting in open ground. Disinfection of beds for planting garlic in the fall

Garlic is the oldest culture and belongs to the lily family. Today it is impossible to imagine any family table without this. useful vegetable. What should be done when planting garlic to get beautiful large heads? The little secrets we offer will help increase the yield of garlic. Carefully read about the correct fit and growing garlic, you will surely achieve excellent results, learn about the preparation and processing of the soil.

Garlic Varieties Summary

This bulbous plant is home to Central Asia and the Mediterranean, where it grows wild. About 4 thousand ago, wild garlic was brought to North Africa and Egypt, and it came to Russia in the Middle Ages (12-13 centuries). Now every home has stocks of this useful culture. Making many dishes is not complete without garlic. He is:

1. An effective drug.
2. Due to the presence in it of essential oils containing a large number of volatile production, garlic has a specific smell and unique taste.
3. The content of essential oils in winter garlic is higher than in spring.
4. Garlic contains minerals and various vitamins (C, B1, B2, PP, B-carotene) in large quantities.
5. Minerals contained in the plant and replenishing the deficiency in our body: calcium, phosphorus, copper, magnesium, silicon, iron. A large stock of selenium.

Varieties and types of garlic, as well as useful properties.

Garlic is an annual plant with vegetative propagation. The bulb contains several cloves (the so-called buds, having a bottom and several points of growth), having the shape and size, which depend on the variety. There are garlic of the following types:

1. Winter arrow;
2. Winter arrow and non-pointer;
3. Winter non-shot.

38 varieties of garlic are grown in Russia.

Garlic cultivation technology

Growing up, garlic inflorescences are formed, having the form of umbrellas, in which not only sterile flowers can be seen, but also the presence of small bowls, which can be 500 pieces on each inflorescence. It is recommended to plant these bulbs in the ground for the winter. Then on next year   possible to produce large cloves of garlic. If they are left in the ground for another year, they will become normal multi-toothed bulbs.

At the end of the vegetative period, the bulb will weigh up to 60 grams, and the peduncle will be surrounded by 14 large teeth. The best harvest will give winter arrow garlic, able to multiply not only the teeth, but also the bulb. Two other species can multiply only by the teeth.

The time of planting depends on the varieties: spring crops are planted in spring, and winter crops - in the autumn months. The yield of winter varieties is higher, but the shelf life of spring varieties is longer. At the very beginning of growth, the optimum temperature for winter varieties of garlic is 5-10 degrees, the best formation of cloves occurs at a temperature of 15-20 degrees, and for the ripening of the bulbs a temperature of 20-25 degrees is necessary.

Is it possible to combine garlic with other cultures?

The best soils for planting and growing garlic are permeable soils, which have high fertility, and their acidity should preferably be neutral. Best yields   gardeners planting garlic at sites where pumpkin or early cabbage were grown. Try not to plant it in places where potatoes or bulbous crops grew. At the previous place, garlic can be planted after 4-5 years.

How to cultivate the soil before planting garlic

Before planting garlic in the soil, it must be processed. First, a peeling is carried out, the depth of which should be 5-8 cm. This prevents soil drying and accelerates the growth of weeds from seeds. After this, the autumn plowing is done, the depth of which is 25-30 cm, in order to plow the seeds with shoots of weeds deep into the soil. So enough moisture collects, and also a contamination of a site decreases.

When the spring comes, it is necessary to harrow the screech, and, in order to plant the brood bow, loosen the soil. The depth of loosening should be 14-15 cm. The methods of further tillage depend on the particular area. When the soil is uneven, after harrowing, cultivation is 8–10 cm deep.

How to fertilize the soil

For 1 square meter you need to make ready-made compost in the amount of 4-6 kg, or humus (the use of fresh organic matter is undesirable). Landing sites winter variety   garlic begin to prepare a month before. After the peeling, the soil and the fertilizers applied to it are dug up to a depth of 20-25 cm. Then, the harrowing and preparation of the beds, which are 15-20 cm in height and not less than a meter wide, is done.

When garlic is planted

When planting winter garlic, time must be calculated in such a way that before the frosts strike, the teeth take firm roots, but do not produce foliage. Most often for winter varieties need 45-50 days. For central Russia, the optimal landing period can be considered the third decade of September.

How to plant garlic

Planting of teeth is carried out in rows with a distance of 45-60 cm between them. It is possible to use tape method   - 2 lines of garlic are planted in each ribbon. Plants are planted at a distance of 10 cm from each other. When planting beds, garlic is planted in three rows, the distance between which is 35 cm.

Special features proper fit   garlic.

The teeth of one row are planted at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other, and 3-5 cm in depth. After planting, the soil is mulched using peat or humus with a layer of up to 2 cm. Thanks to this, the beds warm up well, without losing the necessary moisture.

How to care for planted garlic

Planting garlic early spring is fed using nitrogen fertilizers in the amount of 10-20 grams per square meter. Before the appearance of the Zubkov bulbs, a second feeding is carried out - a full mineral complex. Regular planting is necessary to weed and water, loosen the aisles.

Proper care of planted garlic.

Formed in some varieties of arrows need to be removed, because they take the plant nutrients for their growth and the formation of umbrellas.

It is necessary to remove the arrows as soon as they appear, otherwise the heads will be smaller in size, the harvest will also decrease. Cut with a knife at 12-15 cm from the growth point of the last sheets. Arrows can be left to receive material for landing.

Harvesting

Winter garlic is harvested in July and August. For heavy soil, it is recommended to first dig the beds. Before sending garlic for storage, you must thoroughly dry the heads in the sun or choose a ventilated room for this.

How to water the garlic

With an average temperature of less than 15 degrees, do not need to water the garlic. At a higher temperature, watering should be done in the mornings or evenings, with water having a temperature of about 18 degrees. There is a way for watering:

Sprinkling

Moisture is evenly distributed over the surface, so the rate of irrigation is easily regulated. The downside is the susceptibility of plants to diseases, because moisture evaporates from the earth's surface. In addition, enhanced irrigation by sprinkling causes salinization of the soil. On such land, subsequently it will be impossible to grow crops.

Drip irrigation

It is more progressive. Moisture is supplied to the plant roots themselves, while its distribution is uniform. You can add fertilizer to the water, adjusting the dose of fertilizer. So save money on the purchase of fertilizers, monitor and regulate the condition of the plants. Drip irrigation   allows you to facilitate pest control. The only downside is expensive equipment. However, it pays for itself soon.

The planting of spring garlic is made in early spring. To do this, you need to select the same teeth and push them into the soil by 2-3 cm. At the same time, the distance in rows of up to 6 cm must be maintained, and between rows up to 40 cm. At this time, a good result will be given by the introduction of nitrogen (15 g per square meter) and potassium chloride (10 g per square meter).

In the growing season is loosening between rows and weeding. If necessary (in dry weather), you can water the plants. Spring garlic is collected in August-September. It is not recommended to cut the stems completely; it is better to leave them 5 cm.

Much has been said about the benefits of garlic. It contains a lot of nutrients that are completely absorbed by the body. Since ancient times, garlic was used not only in traditional medicinebut also in cooking. Having even a small plot of land can be grown great harvest   for the whole family.

We grow garlic: planting in open ground

Garlic is affected by its appearance and purpose. In gardening there are spring and winter garlic.

Spring garlic is a non-streaked species. Slices are smaller, arranged spirally. One onion contains about 30 cloves. At the very stem are smaller teeth. The yield of spring garlic is lower, but its main advantage is good keeping quality. Such garlic is well preserved until the new harvest. Spring varieties breed exclusively teeth.

Winter garlic is prone to bolting, forms bulbulki. The heads consist of teeth, the number of which does not exceed 10 pieces. All segments are located in one row. Yield winter garlic   very high, but not suitable for long storage.

Spring garlic: planting and proper care

If you decide to grow varieties of spring garlic, then it is planted in the spring. The most favorable time   - the first half of April. The term of vegetation of spring varieties is much less, therefore, they should be planted as soon as possible. This will help the plant to form a commercial onion. The roots begin to grow at a temperature of from +4 to +10 degrees, and at higher rates their growth stops. Without a good root system to grow large garlic heads will not work. If you delay the planting dates, the yield of garlic will be much lower.

Preparing the soil for planting garlic

The soil for planting need to prepare in advance. The roots of the spring varieties are located in the upper soil layer, so you need to provide them with maximum nutrition.

The bed for sowing should be located in a sunny place without stagnant water. The soil is prepared in the fall, filling it with compost and humus, for additional food contribute ash. In the spring, the soil is loosened and the seed is planted.

Planting spring garlic

For the development and good nutrition of garlic you need to observe the density of planting. The distance between the lobules should be about 8 cm, and between rows should be left up to 30 cm. The depth of landing should be no deeper than 2 cm from the top of the clove. Too deep planting slows the development of garlic. Fresh landings are mulched with straw or peat.

Important! For planting use only large teeth. From small cloves it is not possible to get a good large onion.

For juicy greens, smaller teeth are planted separately.

The importance of watering for bulb growth

Spring varieties of garlic need a good watering until mid-July, when there is a process of green growth. Inadequate watering is indicated by yellowing tips of the plant. After the sixth sheet formed, watering is reduced, and by the middle of August it is completely stopped. Excess water delays the formation of the bulb, reduces the amount of nutrients and poorly affects storage.

Feeding of spring garlic

Systematic fertilizing helps to grow large garlic bulbs and have a positive effect on storage.

1. The first top dressing should be carried out immediately after the formation of several leaves. To this end, nitrogenous fertilizers are used to a greater degree. Often use a solution of bird droppings, mullein, humus, grass infusion. Fresh manure can not be made. This badly affects the safety of the bulbs.

2. After a few weeks, you need to carry out a second feeding with a solution of mineral fertilizers. It is possible to use ashes for these purposes.

3. The last dressing should be carried out in early July, when chives are formed. At this time it is better to make phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

All dressings of garlic should be combined with watering.

How to grow large spring garlic

There are several techniques that will help grow larger heads of spring garlic.

• After each watering it is necessary to loosen the beds.
• In early August, all the leaves of spring garlic should be tied in a knot, thereby reducing their nutrition. This technique helps to direct all the forces on the maturation of the bulb.
• Timely updating of a grade promotes a good harvest.

To get good commodity bulbs, it is not recommended to plant spring garlic after potatoes, tomatoes and onions.

All about planting and growing winter garlic in the open field

Winter garlic is planted for quick consumption and good harvest. For long winter storage, these varieties are not suitable.

Winter garlic is planted in the fall, before the onset of frost. Optimal term   Planting is 35-40 days before the anticipated frost. As a rule, this is the end of September or the beginning of October.

For planting pick large heads, in which more than 4 teeth. Those bulbs that contain 2-3 slices are not used for planting. A small number of cloves speaks of garlic degeneration. If you constantly carry out planting only teeth, the variety gradually degenerates and accumulates pathogens in the bulb.

Update planting stock gently every 4 years. To this end, flower arrows are left on the strongest plants to form air bulbs.

Preparing the soil for planting winter garlic

The bed should be located on a flat surface, without lowlands and elevated places. Before planting, the soil is well fertilized with humus and compost. Nitrogen fertilizers are added and dug to a depth of 25 cm. All weeds and plant residues are removed from the beds. After preparing the soil before planting it is necessary to cover the bed with film. Bean cultures, greens, cabbage will be good predecessors for winter garlic.

Scheme proper planting winter garlic

Landing is carried out for 1.5 before frosts. The plant must have time to build up root system before frost. In warm autumn weather, garlic shoots may appear, but you should not be afraid of this. If the plant is planted in time and has built up a good root system, then no frosts are to it.

For planting winter garlic make grooves with a depth of 6 to 10 cm. It depends on the size of cloves. Smaller teeth planted at a shallow depth. To get large bulbs the ground in the grooves must be compacted. Too loose earth contributes to the growth of small heads.

The distance between the teeth in the groove should be up to 15 cm, and between the rows up to 30 cm. Up to 50 cloves of winter garlic can fit on one square meter.

If after planting the bed was mulched, then with the onset of spring all layers should be removed.

Proper watering and dressing of winter garlic

Winter garlic needs good watering during the formation of chives, 30 days before harvesting, all watering and feeding is stopped. The first watering is carried out in early May. The interval between watering should be at least 10 days. The plant is watered plentifully, the moisture should be impregnated to a depth of 30 cm.

Timely dressing and loosening the soil helps to grow a good crop with large heads of garlic.

1. The first feeding is carried out on frozen ground. To do this, use granular preparations. Ammonium nitrate, superphosphate has proven itself well.

2. A month after the first feeding spend the second. Use fertilizer solutions, herbal infusions or bird droppings.

3. The third time you need to fertilize garlic when its size has reached walnut. This is the last dressing for which potash fertilizers are used.

The secrets of growing and caring for winter garlic so that it is large

Good and proper care   for winter garlic will help grow large heads with good teeth.

• For large heads in winter varieties of garlic need to break out the arrows. Thus, all food goes to the bulb.
• During head ripening, the feather should be put on the ground so that it does not take away the strength from the plant and finish its growth faster.

Conclusion

Planting and growing different varieties of garlic in the open ground does not cause much trouble. The entire care for garlic, in order for it to be large, consists of several procedures: loosening the soil, watering and timely feeding.

Planting: preparation, timing, depth and norms of planting garlic

Seed sorting

The root system of garlic is underdeveloped and is located in the upper soil layer, therefore it must be planted in a fertile area treated to a depth of 20-25 cm with a neutral reaction of the soil solution (pH 6.1-7.0). This culture should not be placed in low places, where melted water accumulates in spring, and on elevated ones, where in winter the wind blows snow away and there is a threat of freezing of garlic. Protect the beds from frost using mulch materials. In early spring, this mulch must be removed before germination in order to avoid planting. With prolonged warming in winter, which leads to snow melting, it is better to remove covering material.

For planting select large and medium garlic bulbs, which are divided into teeth before planting. When planting, use only large (more than 6 g.) And medium (3-6 g.) Mass of teeth. If there are only 2-3 cloves in the bulb, albeit large ones, this is degenerate garlic and is not suitable for planting. With prolonged reproduction only the teeth in the garlic plants accumulate pathogens, which also leads to its degeneration. Therefore, it is desirable to update all planting material once every 3-4 years. To do this, each year it is necessary to replace up to 30% of the seed with single-teeth grown from aerial bulbs.

Preparing garlic for planting

In preparing the seed, it is necessary to discard damaged teeth. But if at least one sore tooth is found, seed should be soaked 12 hours before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or 1% solution of copper sulphate. You can also use warming up the bulbs before planting in a well-ventilated room at a temperature of + 40-42 ° C for 8-10 hours. And so that the teeth are not damaged by diseases, they should not be cleaned from the upper dry scales.

Planting garlic in the fall

Terms of planting garlic

Winter garlic is planted in autumn, when the temperature of the soil at a depth of 5 cm will drop to 12-15 ° C. This is approximately the second half of September - the beginning of October. The time must be calculated so that until the onset of stable winter cold weather remains for about a month and a half. In Polesie and in the forest-steppe - this is the 3rd decade of September - the 2nd decade of October, in the steppes - the 3rd decade of October - the 2nd decade of November. Garlic planted at this time has time to form a powerful root system, and this is one of the main factors for obtaining high yields. Do not be afraid of the emergence of shoots in the fall. Well-rooted garlic is not terrible winter. Worse, when garlic leaves for the winter with a poorly developed root system, it reduces its winter hardiness.

Compatibility and crop rotation

When planting garlic in the fall, the predecessor should release the plot no later than the end of July. Since garlic responds positively to the aftermath of manure, it is better to place it after well-fertilized pumpkin, early white cabbage and cauliflower, legumes, and root vegetables for beam products, early green crops. It is not recommended to return it to its former place earlier than in 4-5 years, as well as after the crops of the bulbous family, potato, tomato. The placement of garlic crops on fresh manure negatively affects the damage to its diseases and pests.

It is possible to grow garlic in one place for no more than two years. Otherwise, the nematode stem soil contamination cannot be avoided. It is better to use garlic after cucumber, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early harvested crops (except onion)

Important:   Be sure to break out the emerging arrows - this will increase the yield of garlic.

Soil preparation

Winter garlic prefers sandy soils. The beds for it are prepared in advance, a week and a half before planting. They dig up the soil to a depth of 25 cm., Carefully remove weeds, add 5–6 kg. humus (but not fresh manure!), 30 g. of superphosphate, 20 g. of potassium salt per 1 sq. m. For a day or two before planting, ammonium nitrate is added at the rate of 10–12 grams per square meter. m. Dry soil is watered.

Rows for garlic are placed at a distance of 20–25 cm on a well-aligned bed, leaving 10–12 cm between plants. Can be planted in the grooves. Do not press the teeth into the ground; this will delay the growth of the roots. In addition, compacted earth can then push the garlic to the surface, and it will freeze. But the earth should not be too loose, you need to tamp it slightly, otherwise the teeth can "drown" and the bulbs will be small, will be poorly stored. The depth of planting depends on the type of soil and the size of cloves of garlic. From the top of the clove to the surface of the soil should be 3-4 cm. Too small planting threatens to freeze. Plantations should be mulched with a layer of peat, humus or sawdust 2–5 cm thick, spread out brushwood to hold the snow in the beds. In the spring, the layer of mulch is removed so that the plants do not undercut.

Planting garlic in spring

Spring garlic is planted in early spring, in the first days of field work, but not later than the first decade of April. The best seedlings are spring garlic, whose teeth were kept in the fridge for 2-3 weeks before planting.

The depth and rate of planting garlic

With autumn planting   the large fractions are sown to a depth of 8-9 cm, the average - 6-7 cm.
  In the spring, the depth of embedment of the teeth should be 4-6 cm. Such a depth allows placing planting material in moist soil and prevent the teeth from protruding. In a row, large teeth are placed after 6-8 cm., Medium ones - after 4-6 cm. The norm of planting winter garlic is 45-50, spring plant - 50-55 teeth per 1 square meter.

Top dressing and watering garlic

Top dressing

Garlic is very responsive to the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. In the fall, the land is fertilized with humus or compost (6–7 kg per 1 square meter). However, one should refrain from applying fresh manure or increased doses of nitrogen fertilizers, which leads to a strong growth of the vegetative mass and a decrease in the yield of the bulbs.

Plants, especially winter varieties, are responsive to phosphate and potash fertilizers, since these elements increase the hardiness of garlic. In early spring, winter garlic is fertilized over talomrazoy soil and, when full spring germination of spring garlic appears, with mineral fertilizers per 10 square meters: 60 g of ammonium nitrate, 90-100 g of superphosphate and 50-60 g of potassium sulfate. The second dressing of garlic is carried out, if necessary, in 25-30 days with the same doses.

Under garlic allocate land with fertile soil. The best predecessors - early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini.

In the autumn, before planting garlic, I introduce organic and mineral fertilizers: 5-6 kg of humus or compost, 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2. Then the site is completely dug up on a full spade bayonet, uniformly mixing the fertilizer with the soil.
  I plant garlic in the second half of September - early October in the garden at a distance of 20-25 cm row from the row. Teeth, depending on the size, planted at a distance of 5-8 cm from each other, planting depth - 3-4 cm. Mulch planted garlic with peat or humus layer 1.5-2 cm (1.5-2 buckets per 1 sq. M .)
  In spring and summer, garlic care consists of feeding with nitrogen fertilizers, watering as the soil dries out and weeding. Be sure to break out the emerging arrows - this will increase the yield of garlic.
  Garlic ripens in late July - early August. It is impossible to delay the cleaning, otherwise perezreyya, the heads will disintegrate. Therefore, when the leaves turn yellow, pull the garlic out of the ground and dry in a dry place for 4-5 days, and after cutting the roots and tops, leaving the neck 4-5 cm.

Watering

Despite the fact that garlic does not tolerate excessive moisture, it needs constant watering during the first growing season - from germination to the formation of cloves. Garlic is poured abundantly with the impregnation of the soil to a depth of 30 cm with an interval of 7-10 days. The first watering is done in early May with fertilizing. Watering is stopped 25-30 days before harvesting.

Garlic loves fertile, well-fertilized soil. It is demanding of soil moisture, especially when critical periods of its growth and development come: at the time of germination of the cloves (first two weeks after planting), enhanced leaf growth, and also at the beginning of the formation of cloves. With a lack of moisture in these periods, the bulbs are small. During the growing season of garlic need watering. 20-25 days before harvesting, watering is stopped. Negative impact on the storage of the product has an excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers. It is not at all good to bring them at the beginning of the formation of the bulbs, when they carry out frequent watering. Garlic grown for long-term storage, after pruning the leaves, dry thoroughly in the sun until it rustles when shifted.

Garlic reproduction

How to multiply garlic - this question interests many summer people. When garlic is multiplied by air bulbs, it is planted also in the 3rd decade of September - I-II decade of October or in early spring simultaneously with the planting of cloves as normal - 60-80 g per 1 sq. M. In addition, there is a direct technology for obtaining garlic from air bulbs.

For this air bulbs are sown in wet soil July 1-5. Before the frost grow well-formed plants with a strong root system, without the formation of bulbs. For sowing, it is better to use air bulbs that have been stored for 11-12 months. At the same time, for sowing, garlic teeth are selected with a diameter of at least 4 mm. Smaller bulbs are not suitable for planting. The depth of seeding of air bulbs of autumn sowing is 2-4 cm, and spring and summer - 4-5 cm.

In order to obtain air bulbs, in the arrow forms, flower-bearing shoots do not break out, but are left for flowering and the formation of brooches. The following year, a good single-toothed crop grows out of such bulbs, which can later be used to grow food garlic.

No matter how portly garlic may be, it still degenerates, becomes shallow. Therefore, to update the seed in mid-May, small teeth are soaked in a warm solution of potassium permanganate (40-45 ° C) for 6-7 hours, then planted in beds with carrots, pepper or strawberries in the aisle with an interval of 7 cm. Weeks after two garlic germinates, and later gives the head up to 5 cm in diameter. They are dug up when the stem begins to turn yellow in the lower part, dry for two or three days, cut the tops of the tops and put them in boxes for under-winter sowing.

Garlic harvesting

When cultivating garlic, it is important to remove the bulbs in a timely manner, because when they are crossed, they crack, break down into teeth, get lost in the soil, and germinate.

Signs of harvest ripeness in all forms of garlic: the formation of a dense shell around the heads, clear outlines of cloves, yellowing of the two lower leaves.
  Winter garlic is harvested at the end of July - early August, spring - 2-3 weeks later. In the rainy summer it is better to harvest garlic earlier. Shortly before harvesting, the soil from the bulbs is raked off - this contributes to the ripening of garlic.

The shortage of garlic can be explained by such reasons. First of all, we should not allow garlic to be cultivated in one place for many years, because the soil may be infected with a nematode. Another reason: during the growing season, plants are shaded by trees, shrubs or buildings. It happens that water has a high salt content. This is also the reason. If the garlic for planting was brought from distant places, then it quickly degenerates, and in this case, the seed material must be completely replaced.

Garlic storage

Ventilate often and keep from misting. Winter garlic is stored at home badly - after 3-4 months it begins to germinate, ache and dry. Remember: only the best garlic can be stored - properly grown, without excess nitrogen fertilizers, well ripened but not overripe, harvested in late July - early August (spring - three weeks later). During storage, garlic should be kept an eye on and, as soon as an onion appears with a suspected disease, damaged, dried or cracked, it should be removed immediately.

Garlic diseases

Protection of garlic (onion) from pests and diseases

Stem Nematode   - This is a very small threadlike whitish worms, almost invisible. They penetrate into the depths of young plants, which turn yellow and die, and the bulb cracks, as if turned out, the bottom of onion and garlic is destroyed. Damaged bulbs become soft and rot when stored, and small onion shoots dry out. Leaves (feather) are deformed, wrinkled, yellowish streaks appear on them. When damaged by a nematode, the crop is sharply reduced or completely killed.

Control measures:   planting onions and garlic in its place is allowed only after 3-4 years. The bed must be lime in the fall or one month before planting at the rate of 2 cups of lime-fluff, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 m2.
  Before planting garlic and onions, the soil is watered at the rate of 3 liters per 1 m2 of sodium chloride solution (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Before planting, both spring and autumn, garlic and onions are treated with the following solution: dilute 3 tablespoons of table salt with 5 liters of water and immerse the bulbs for 15-20 minutes.
Then, without washing, the bulbs are planted. In early June, spring and winter garlic and onions on a turnip need to be fed with ammonium sulphate (2 tablespoons of ammonium sulphate per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 4-5 liters per 1 m2. Onions and garlic, planted in spring, are additionally fed with the same solution 10 days after germination. As a result, onions and garlic are gaining strength and resistance to pests.

Onion fly   - From the second half of May begins years of onion flies. She lays eggs on the soil or on dry scales of onions. A few days later the larvae emerge from the testicles and penetrate the bulb, it rots and the plant fades.

Control measures:   early planting and sowing onions. When a fly appears, sprinkle the soil with a repellent substance - 100 g of wood ash, a tablespoon of tobacco dust and a teaspoon of ground pepper per 1 m2. After dusting the soil, it is necessary to loosen to a depth of 2-3 cm every 4-5 days.
  A good effect in the fight against the larvae gives watering tobacco solution: take a bucket, pour 200 g of tobacco dust or tobacco, pour 2-3 liters of hot water and leave for 2 to 3 days. Then add up to 10 liters of water, add 1 tablespoon of liquid soap and 1 teaspoon of ground black or red pepper. The solution is filtered and sprayed on the plants and the soil.

Neck rot   - Fungal disease. Near the neck of the bulb, gray depressed spots appear, which further on storage extend to the scales and bottom of the bulb. The fungus remains on the bulbs, in the soil and on plant residues until next year.

Control measures:   onions and garlic are cleaned in dry, sunny weather and dried in air at a temperature of 25-26 ° C for 12 days, then 3 days at a temperature of 30-35 ° C. Bulbs are treated with chalk.

Downy mildew (perinospora)   - Fungal disease. At first, pale green spots appear on the onion leaves, later they turn into a grayish-purple patina. The upper part of the leaves (feather tips) turns yellow and dies. The disease develops strongly in wet, warm weather. The fungus overwinters in the soil, on old uncultivated plants and in bulbs during storage.

Control measures:   the bed for planting onions should be directed from north to south so that it is well lit by the sun. Make sure that the sowing of seeds and planting seedlings are not thickened and weedy.
Before planting, the seedlings should be heated at a temperature of 30-35 "C for 8-10 hours. When the onion leaves are 10-12 cm high, they must be sprinkled with copper oxychloride solution (1 tablespoon of copper oxychloride and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap per 10 l water). If this disease is found, watering and fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers should be avoided. Care should be taken when the leaves are still green and the bulbs have already formed. The leaves are immediately cut and burned, and the bulbs themselves are well dried in the sun for 12-14 days .

Onion and garlic rust   - Fungal disease. The disease affects the leaves: light yellow, slightly convex pads are formed, later they turn black. The infection persists on plant residues and on perennial onion species.

Control measures:   crop rotation and warming planting material   before storage Onion sets before planting are heated for 8-12 hours at 40 ° C.
  To prevent the spread of the disease in the period of massive onion growth, it is necessary to sprinkle it with copper oxychloride solution (1 tablespoon of copper oxychloride and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap are taken for 10 liters of water). This spraying is carried out again in a week.

Black mold   - Fungal disease, manifested during storage of onions and garlic at elevated temperatures. In the affected bulbs, the upper succulent scales dry out, and the sevyka and garlic dry out completely. This disease primarily affects unripe and poorly dried onions and garlic.

Control measures:   good drying of onions and garlic, as well as their proper storage. In case of a disease of the heads, they should be dried further and powdered with chalk.

Fusarium   - Fungal disease. Initially, there is a softening of the bottom, rosin and dying of the roots, the appearance of brownish on the leaves, their gradual dying and drying of the plant, as well as the bulbs.

Control measures:   use for planting healthy material and maintaining crop rotation, tillage before planting with copper sulfate solution (take 1 tablespoon of 10 liters of water). Destruction of diseased plants.

Bacterial disease   of garlic affects the juicy tissue of winter garlic, resulting in brown and brown sores on bare teeth. Affected teeth root poorly and overwinter badly, and the planting of garlic is thinned, the yield decreases, the ends of the leaves turn yellow.

Control measures: dressing of cloves before planting in a solution of copper sulphate and table salt, as well as careful selection of planting material. Quick drying of the heads immediately after cleaning - in the sun or thermally under a canopy.

Important:   When dealing with pests and diseases, it is prohibited to treat garlic and onions used on the pen!

Spring is a very changeable season, which pleases you with warm sunshine and sometimes shocks with a significant decrease in temperature. But to winter garlic, all these abrupt changes are not terrible - even small frosts perfectly tolerate its gentle shoots. It comes up very early and immediately requires proper attention. After waiting for the early leaves to appear in early spring, we continue the process of garlic care started in the fall. Planting does not need anything, because we had a landing in the fall. Garlic transplantation in the spring is undesirable.

Loosening and mulching the soil

When the earth had not yet had time to dry properly, need to destroy the upper soil crust. This is necessary to ensure the optimal access of oxygen to the roots and developing teeth of plants.

Loosening can be done either with a special tool with three teeth, or with a narrow chopper. In the process of loosening, it is not necessary to go deep into the soil - 3-4 cm is enough. After such manipulations, it is advisable to mulch the ground under winter garlic using peat, humus, dry grass, straw or sawdust. The following year, when the process of rotting occurs, mulch will be an excellent fertilizer for growing new crops.

Spring Watering Rules

The first watering in the spring should be carried out immediately after loosening, provided there is no natural precipitation. In May and June, care in the form of regular irrigation of winter garlic should be mandatory, and in the summer, before harvesting (18–20 days), it is necessary to stop watering in order to increase the shelf life of the harvested crop. To properly water the winter garlic, you need to focus on air temperature and the presence of precipitation. When the outside is still cool enough, you can reduce the amount of water, and if the spring is hot, you need to water it abundantly.

Approximate doses of irrigation of winter garlic:

• In moderate weather, you can spend from 10 to 12 liters of water per 1 square meter. The interval between watering should be 8-10 days.
• Hot spring garlic can be moistened with the same amount of water, but somewhat reducing the period between irrigation - up to 3 times in 2 weeks.
• When in the spring outside the windows the rain practically does not stop, and the air temperature is rather unstable, it will be possible to destroy young plants by excessive watering.

Fertilization and weed control

Getting a good harvest is impossible without sufficient feeding of any plants. Garlic is not an exception, it also needs such kind of care as top dressing. Carry it out in several stages:

• The first top dressing is done when 3-4 leaves appear in winter garlic. To prepare the nutrient composition take 1 tbsp. l urea or the same liquid fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta" and diluted in 10 liters of distilled water. Fertilize can of watering can. Approximate consumption of funds - 2-3 liters per 1 m².
• The next stage of feeding will be appropriate in 2-3 weeks. This time the solution can be prepared as follows: 2 tbsp. l Nitrofoski or nitroammofoski need to pour in 10 liters of water. Good feedback received a liquid drug for feeding - "Effecton". 2 tbsp. l This means needs to be dissolved in a bucket of water. The first and second solution are consumed within 3-4 liters per 1 m².
• The last feeding is carried out approximately in the second half of June. It is necessary for the proper formation of the bulb. Requires 2 tbsp. l chopped superphosphate stir in 10 liters of water. This liquid (sprinkling method) needs to be treated with garlic, consuming 4-5 liters per 1 m².

In the spring, there is an active growth not only of plants that you planted with your own hands, but also of weeds, which no one was going to plant. Weeds can be removed as they appear, the first time - during the early loosening of the earth. By the way, weed grass grows much less in mulch soil.

Winter garlic has the ability to release arrows.   When they grow in length about 10 cm, they must be removed, otherwise there will be no good harvest. In a few particularly strong plants, arrows can be left. In the fall, you will collect seeds from them that can be planted next year.

All of the above convinces us that the care of winter garlic is quite simple and does not take much time from gardeners. The given norms of top dressing are optimal for this culture and are well absorbed by it, without bearing the threat to people who will eat garlic.

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