Caring for green areas is the responsibility of the management company.
Post-plant care for trees and shrubs is a system of measures aimed at establishing the vital functions of plants after transplantation and speeding up the process of adaptation to adverse environmental conditions.
When spring planting plants need system watering. Assistance in root restoration is achieved by introducing growth stimulants simultaneously with irrigation. Effective growth promoters are potassium with indolyl acetic acid (heteroauxin), root, epin.
The application rate for saplings of bushes is 5 liters and tree saplings are 10 liters of solutions of a given concentration (0.002%).
For trees with a lump from 30-70l –0.003% per 1 tree depending on the size of the lump.
Solutions of heteroauxin are prepared according to the instructions.
During the season, the plants must be watered at least 7-10 times, depending on the weather conditions. Soil moisture should be maintained within 60-70% of the total field moisture capacity, which is determined by taking soil samples from a depth of 15-30cm.
The best time for watering is morning and evening, night. t water 15-25 0.
In dry and hot weather, the above-ground parts of plants should be irrigated in the morning or in the evening, from hoses with a sprayer, at a water consumption rate of 2 l / m 2.
Conifer irrigate spring on next year after planting, a soap solution of the substance OP-7, OP-10 at K = 0.2-0.3% is added to wash off the pollution into water. In the 2nd year after planting, it is useful to combine sprinkling with mineral dressings. As preparations, a 0.1% solution of urea is used. (1g / l of water), a 0.2% solution of ammonium nitrate, a 0.5% solution of superphosphate, a 0.4% solution of chloride K., the soil surface around the plants is loosened to a depth of 5 -6 cm in spring and after watering rains 7-10 times per season.
For a hedge, the loosening strip is 0.4m, and to protect the plants from freezing, they put peat or humus in a layer of 6-8 cm to protect them from freezing. During the period of survival (shrubs 2 years) of trees 3-5 years) check the attachment of plants.
In the future, in the process of exploitation, care is taken to increase the biological stability and decorative effect in adverse conditions.
The first of the main activities for care is to give the crown a decorative look, by partial trimming of the shoots and individual branches. When caring for crowns, use 3 types of trimming:
molding
sanitary
rejuvenating
Molding is used to reduce the crown of a plant or to give it an appropriate shape (spherical, cone-shaped, columnar, parallelepiped).
At a young age, weak pruning is done, pinching of shoots by ½ sometimes 3 buds, no more than 20-30% of the annual increase. In middle age, they shorten shoots to 50% of a year’s length. increment. As a result, the upper shoots are lengthened, the leaves become larger.
In fast-growing species (poplar, maple ash) make a strong pruning at 60-70% of the length of the year. growth shoots; in spruce and fir, used in hedges, pruning is carried out once a year at the end of the shoot growth.
Forming pruning in fast-growing species is carried out annually, in slow-growing 1 time in 2 years. When forming the artificial forms of trees produce a strong pruning, which turns into a haircut. The shape of the crown is formed in the first 20 years, pruning during this period must be qualified. When dying off the tops of old trees, the crown is reformed: they remove branches that grow inside the crown and are drawn together, rubbing against each other, extending from the trunk at an acute angle and growing vertically upwards.
Sanitary pruning is carried out during the entire growing season, while removing the branches at the very base (pruning "on the ring"), and the shoots above the bud, keeping it.
Large branches sawn off in 3 steps:
The first cut is made from the bottom
2nd cut by 2-5cm above 1st
the remaining stump is cut near the trunk.
The cut is covered with oil paint or garden putty. Overgrowth and fat shoots at the roots. necks are cut with the capture of mater.kory to remove the buds at the base of the shoots.
Rejuvenating - designed to maintain the vital activity of old, weakened trees that lose their decorative qualities (foliage becomes smaller and paler, the growth decreases).
Shoots and branches are pruned to the zone of appearance of young shoots by 1/3 - 1/2 L. 1-2 branches of the 2nd order are left on the pruned branch. In spring and summer, shoots of callus appear near the cut on shortened branches. The activity of dormant buds located in the outer part of the stem and branches is increased. If the shoots are thick, then thinning occurs, removing excess shoots. Anti-aging scraps are produced gradually over a period of 2–3 years, starting from the top and large skeletal branches.
From conifers - spruce spiny, pruning produced at the beginning of the growing season.
Sometimes trees can be planted “on the stump’ ’” (poplar, hornbeam, maple, linden, oak). At the same time cut off shoots. Carry out also a gradual cutting out of the roots, cutting 1/3 - 1/2 of the root system annually.
Plants dig in a trench 30-40 cm wide and 40-60 cm deep at a distance equal to ten times the size d of the trunk.
In the trench fall asleep loose fertile soil.
TRIM CUTTING
There are 3 types of shrub trimming:
molding
sanitary
rejuvenating
Proper trimming of shrubs is possible only with a clear idea of the structure of the bush, specific or molded features, the specifics of growth, vegetative and generative shoots. Molding pruning is carried out to shape the bush from the 1st year after planting. Pruned annual growth leaving part of the lower kidneys. There are 3 main types of shrubs:
1.With wintering flower buds
2. With non-summer summer flower buds
3.Mixed
In the bushes of the 1st type, an escape of the last year is blossoming (quince, spirea, forsythia, Caragana). They are pruned in the summer after flowering. In bushes of the 2nd type, flower stalks are pruned on the annual runaway of the current year (barberry, snowberry).
Such plants are pruned in a dormant period in late autumn or early spring. In type 3 shrubs, flowers are cut from the lateral and apical buds of last year’s sprout and current lateral growth (privet, shadberry, currant). Pruning is carried out after flowering.
SANITARY TRIM is aimed at removing sick, dying and damaged branches, which are carried out annually throughout the growing season.
REJUVENATING CUTTING is carried out in order to prevent the aging of the bushes. Remove aging branches from species that develop root shoots (lilac). The grafted plants are cut to h = 10-15cm from the site of inoculation, not grafted on the same h from the root collar.
In plants with growth of shoots during the 1st season, the following year, only flowering lateral shoots (elder, bonsplotron, spirea) are pruned. Pruning is carried out to the base at the place of discharge of a large lateral shoot.
In plants with perennial shoots, the full development cycle is 6-7 years. Pruning is carried out by removing the aging parts of the shoot to the place of occurrence of large stem shoots. In long-standing shrubs (almonds, shadberry, cotoneaster), pruned skeletal branches, shortening shoots.
CARE OF ROOT SYSTEMS OF PLANTS
Trees are divided by type of root growth:
with the 1st max. root growth (poplar, white acacia);
with 2 max. root growth (lindens, maples, elms. Ash, horse chestnut, bird cherry);
with 3 max. root growth (birch, oak, white poplar, bird cherry);
with 4 max. root growth (Ussuri pear, apple trees and Siberian);
In the spring and in the spring - summer periods, max. root growth; plants should be provided with nutrients and water; in the fall, the provision of P and K increases winter hardiness.
Fertilizers are applied in the following ways:
by surface spreading
focal method in wells with a depth of 20-25 cm, d = 4-5 cm for 3-5 pcs / m2.
In the form of liquid mineral supplements: N = 25-30 g, P = 50-70 g, K = 15-40 g for trees; for bushes N = 6g, P = 6g, K = 7g.
Submission dates April-June, August-October.
Dry dressings are carried out after rain or watering, departing ½ m from the trunk or 30 cm from the root collar.
Liquid fertilizing is carried out at the rate of 40- 60 l / m2, for trees 10-15l / m2- for shrubs. Nowadays, complex polymer fertilizers (SPU) of red, light gray color are used, the content of N = 26%, including watergrowing N = 10%, P2O5 = 20%.
Bring 200g / m2 under the trees and 80-100g / m2 for shrubs.
Organic fertilizers are distributed evenly over the tree surface along the crown projection. After the distribution of fertilizers are embedded in the soil by rolling (peat).
Organic fertilizers applied in liquid form (mullein 1: 5), bird droppings (1:15). HB = 15-25 l / m2.
For cleaning from dust and prom. emissions are carried out sprinkling of crowns of plants with detergent preparations in a concentration of 0.1-0.3%, 2-3 times per season.
Foliar fertilization - the introduction of solutions of macro - and micro elements through the leaves by spraying crowns. Carried out 1-2 times during the growing season, the first time during the period of intensive growth, in the phase of laying the upper bud; 2nd time for 10 liters of water-30 g of ammonium nitrate; 50g of urea; superphosphate and chlorine 150g. The consumption of the solution depends on the H of the tree. When H tree = 5m –5l, etc., more than 20m-30l.
For shrubs 6 2-3l.
CARE FOR PLANTINGS AND METHODS OF THEIR FORMATION
Trees are divided into 4 groups:
trees are normally developed;
trees without visible processes of depression, F but with a decrease in the growth of lateral shoots;
with noticeable depression (thinned crown, dry branches, weak growth);
plants with sharply weakened growth (strongly izrazhenna krone).
DIAGNOSTICS OF PLANT CONDITION
Morphological method- measurement of Z shoots and leaf area;
Anatomical - definition of development, structure and ratio of tissues of vegetative organs (stomata, parenchyma).
Physico-biochemical - requires special equipment, reagents, refers to the number of laboratory methods. Evaluation is conducted by increasing the proportion of growth stimulants.
Trees 1 gr. fertilized 1 time in 3 years in the forest zone, in the steppe zone 1 time in 2 years.
Trees 2 gr. 2 times in 1 year in the forest zone, daily in the steppe. In the 3rd gr. Intensive and regular care, foliar nutrition with microelements. Trees to be replaced 4 gr. and 3g. over 50 years old. Loosening increases 2-5 times, watering 2-6 times.
Highly thickened plantations (0.9-1.0) are subject to recultivation. Very thinned (0.3 or less), overmature, damaged, low-value.
In dense plantations, thinning is calculated so that 15–20% of solar radiation penetrates under the canopy. With a private landing, separate specimens are removed through a row or in a row. Can be used for planting trees in neglected plantings. In low-value plantings at the same time cutting and planting trees.
The total area of the site is -3600 m2, further according to the plan the connection of the site under orchard and a vegetable garden of about 1300m2
... from the difficulties of miracles themselves
And the garden will bloom, reach for the skies ...
We will help the earth, enriching it ...
Since all the plants on the site have just been planted, care for them requires special care and attentiveness. The time when a sapling takes root in a new place is very responsible, as the roots have to master a new space, while the plant spends efforts on the growth of young shoots, on the budding of flower buds and seeks with all efforts to achieve seed formation, they say, a stressful state, it is necessary to leave offspring. The task of the gardener is to direct all the forces of the plant to the development of the root system. All the main activities of the first year of care are directed to this.
Lawn care.
... how for the earth to create a dress of soft herbs,
Green carpet spread to us everywhere.
But herbs require constant care.
Weeding thorough, watering relentless:
Must be trimmed, updated
And gently silky lawn well-groomed ...
After all the activities of sowing seeds, it is time to wait for the emergence of lawn plants and the subsequent formation of lawn grass stand. The most critical period is the first month and a half. After the formation of 2-3 leaves on the shoot, the plants turn into highly competitive and live for many years, ie, confidence in the success of creating a lawn will appear just six weeks after sowing. The main tasks at this time - to form the required grass, to achieve its consolidation and domination over the entire area of the lawn, for this you need:
Stimulate the growth and intensive tillering of lawn plants
Restrain the spread of unwanted weeds.
... in dry places, burnt,
Lose color quickly and they will burn out
A scorched lawn - he is a wasteland akin to ...
The very first event is watering. Moreover, watering should be carried out no less than a day later and the irrigation rate is not less than 20 liters per 1 m2 (with watering, the turf is soaked to a depth of 10 cm). Water temperature for irrigation should not be lower than +10 degrees, and better from +15 to 20 (if irrigation is carried out with water from a deep well, storage tanks are needed), otherwise the effect of irrigation will not be, in cool weather (below +10) irrigation is not produced. Further, after about 4-5 weeks, when the height of the grass stand reaches 10-12 cm (a meadow-type lawn is provided at this site), it is necessary to carry out the first haircut, leaving the stubble 5-6 cm. Further, the haircut will be held every 7-10 days, focusing on weather (in the rain and severe drought, no cutting is done). Shearing stimulates growth and tillering of the stand and inhibits the spread of unwanted weeds. The mowed grass is stored in compost containers, where after spilling with composting accelerators, own reserves of organic fertilizers are formed rather quickly. For the future, use a lawn mower with an option for mulching. The last haircut is made on the basis of weather conditions and the growth of the grass stand, usually it is the end of September, and if it is warm and prolonged autumn, then the beginning of October.
Mineral fertilizers introduced before sowing, especially nitrogen fertilizers, will last up to one and a half months, not more. Therefore, after the first or second mowing it is necessary to feed nitrogen fertilizers. Fertilize from the surface, without embedding in the soil, but evenly throughout the site. You can use complex fertilizers. After the first additional feeding, the following applications are made through one mowing, until mid-August (the last additional feeding with nitrogen fertilizers on August 15). In September, fertilizing with double potassium superphosphate is shown. Phosphate and potash fertilizers do not accelerate the growth of plants in the fall, but contribute to the activation of the photosynthesis process with young leaves at this time. Due to this, carbohydrates accumulate in plants and their underground organs, and as a result they overwinter well. Since photosynthesis continues throughout the period of positive air temperatures, until the end of October, they should not be mowed, even if they have slightly grown, during this period of life, lawn grasses function to increase their vitality, including winter hardiness. Next you need to take into account the PH of the soil, as the dressings acidify the soil and, if necessary, carry out additional measures to deoxidize the soil - adding chalk or dolomite flour.
Despite all the precautions, weeds will still seem, so periodically there is a need to weed perennial weeds (by hand or with the help of herbicides of selective action).
... between sometimes winds and sometimes snows
A horde of weeds began to rise;
On their leaves are rough - a spot on the spot,
Like a snake belly, a toad back.
Thistle, henbane, celandine,
Sorrel, nettle with a thousand arrows
Everywhere stretched, their system was buzzing,
And the dead wind vile stink.
And plants, which is disgusting to call in verses,
Rose thickly again t again
Nozdrevaty, prickly, all in rotten ulcers,
And sprinkle them poisonous dew.
(Percy Bysshe Shelley - 1820)
By August, places will be visible where, for various reasons, the grass has not risen, it is necessary to leave some stock of grass mixture for sowing bald spots.
Other activities such as aeration, mop-up, mulching with mowed grass, and groundings are not carried out in the first year, but, naturally, should be included in the care program from the second year of lawn life.
In carrying out all of the above activities, a good lawn formation is provided in the first year of plant life. Meadow lawn with proper care by the end of the growing season of the first year of life is fully formed and the following year can be used in the usual for a full lawn mode.
Flower care
... They are the most beautiful that gives us
Nature on earth; then her gift is priceless.
For all the arts, the flower is a sample unchanged ...
... Their brightness is tender to all ages,
In a garland, whether in a vase - they are charming everywhere,
And in the green gardens - all the more appropriate ...
Flower bed at the retaining wall - the total area of 40 m2. The species composition of the flower bed requires constant care. Cotone killers (since they are practically evergreen) require shelter from sunburn, as the retaining walls are thawed first. Dicentra eximia must be cut after flowering, if you dry a little, it will quickly retire and throw off the leaves. Iberis semperverens and Viola odorata should be covered with a foot. Antenaria dionica is short-lived and requires anti-aging division every 2-3 years. Colchicum speciosum requires digging and storage in a warm place, Crocus vernus will hide after ottsvetaniya. The flower garden must be kept wet, since almost all species are moisture-loving, and on elevation the soil dries quickly.
But at the same time, Dicentra eximia, Iberis semperverens, and both Campanula species do not tolerate the root system’s flaking. Caring for a flower garden includes - weeding, watering. At the end of the first month after planting, it is shown to feed with complex (preferably liquid, easily digestible fertilizer, such as Uniflor - growth. Several sprays of zircon are carried out to successfully prevent post-planting stress. As a preventive measure for fungal diseases, biological means Fitosporin is used. Aurum-S, and if, nevertheless, any insects will encroach on tender young leaves, systemic insecticides will have to be used. perennials in the flower garden should be divided every 3-5 years, depending on the species.
Flower Garden - Mediterranean garden
Plants are selected drought-resistant and easy to clean. Measures for the prevention of diseases and for protection against pests are the same as in the flower garden described above. Also shown fertilizing Uniflora-growth and spraying zircon, respectively, watering and weeding. Further, Festuca cinerea before wintering must be covered with spruce branches, Helianthemum nummularum should be cut off after flowering, Antenaria dionica and Diantis caesius should be planted periodically for rejuvenation (but this will happen in the future), and only cut off the faded parts. In Stachis lanata, it is generally necessary to cut the flower stalks at their first appearance, so that the plant does not stretch, but is a neat curtain; for Elymus giganteum, almost one sand is needed.
Flower bed "river of stonecrops"
The care mainly consists of weeding, watering and periodically feeding with easily digestible liquid fertilizer.
Saponaria ocymoides and Aubrieta deltoids in shrub mixborder require cover with a foot. for winter.
Shrub care
... And low bushes. Their beauty is
What is between a tall tree and a flower
They are just in the middle ...
... All of you who are given the choice of plants Plant in your garden, remember: bloom
Shrubs always gives us the opportunity
Flowering garden see almost all year round.
As soon as one blooms, the others are already
Buds throw green, tight,
And again the garden is in bloom, and the fragrance pours
All months, from spring to autumn in a row.
When the bloom is over - well, so what!
A shrub without flowers is beautiful too,
He is green and curly, he is both fluffy and thick,
And decorates the garden with him every bush ...
Shrubs are picked up quite unpretentious, but still, as already mentioned, the plants require increased attention in the post-planting season. Shrubs it makes sense to shed heteroauxin weeks after two after planting, care will be reduced to weeding of pristvolnyh circles, a small formative pruning (for example, in barberries, almonds, forsythia, spirea, stefanandry, hydrangeas), and in spirey, additionally, under the condition of flowering, it is necessary to pluck flowers In the middle of summer, fertilizing with complex fertilizer is shown, and in late August - with potassium superphosphate. Naturally, watering, treatment of diseases and pests. In the first year of not giving bloom hydrangea paniculata. The horizontal cotoneaster requires February shelter from the spring sun, and hydrangeas, forsythia, almonds, broom, require cover in the first year after planting pristvolny circles with lapnik or any other covering material.
Concerning coniferous shrubs - they also need all the above activities and an additional 2-3 times with a gap of two weeks spraying zircon on the crown. All freshly planted conifers need to be covered in February with 2-3 layers of gauze from spring burns. Top-dressing with liquid, easily digestible fertilizer for conifers with zinc content. Mandatory Prevention fungal diseases using phytosporine, and in adverse weather conditions use HOM.
Tree care
Trees, their charm - that's the main thing in the garden.
How many of them we have, very different trees
Thick or cross, always diverse:
This is the flexibility of his eyes,
Other - stands sternly like a soldier
One - spreading branches extends,
Another - in the wind trembles and plays.
In variability - the essence of such wondrous beauty:
Oh, blessed be the one who managed to find
To the treatment of gardens reliable ways!
He, removing the bark, covers the trees
Putty some - and then comes to life
Sick tree. In it fresh juice boils,
You look and the trunk is covered with new sprouts;
Recently naked and stunted poor fellows
Suddenly zakudryavitsya, full of healing moisture,
As if hunched and weak old man
Put a wig on his bald head
The trees on the site are represented only by pine, the plant itself does not require care. But when planting large-sized specimens are used, and of course, it is necessary to take care of their early rooting. For this it is necessary to shed heteroauxin during and shortly after planting. It is shown 2-3 times spraying zircon on the crown to relieve stress and increase resilience, and finally, mandatory watering with complete wetting of the coma .. In October, frameworks are built for spring shading and, accordingly, in mid-February, these layers are stretched with gauze in 3 layers or burlap in 1 layer.
When carrying out such care and subject to proper landing increases the likelihood of good survival of plants, and, consequently, their successful wintering.
... In northern Russia, blizzards are raging,
But powerful forests, their cedars, pines, firs,
Mosses and lichens in the mist of frosty winters
Are green under a layer of snow.
Skill and labor prevail there.
Love with frost helps fight,
And young Flora comes in her turn ... *
Summarizing all the above, it is necessary to note once again the need for careful attention to plants in the first year after planting. This is especially true for planting krupnomerov, in which the root system suffers during transplantation. The first year is the most decisive in the work of the gardener. Further, the task of care is reduced to maintaining green spaces in accordance with the project. All deviations from the project occur at the request of the customer or, if necessary, associated with various external factors.
* Extracts from the poem “Gardens” by Jacques Delil
Care of plants immediately after planting on the object of gardening is carried out 2-2.5 months before putting this object into operation and consists in a system of measures aimed at restoring the disturbed functions of plants after transplantation and giving them an aesthetic appearance.
The focus should be on caring for the root systems of plants, as the main organ of vital activity of the organism.
The tree care activities include:
1. Systematic watering of the planted plants, which is carried out until the root-soil layer is fully wetted, and depends on the moisture content of this root-soil layer.
Best time watering - morning, before 11 o'clock, and evening, after 6 o'clock. The most favorable water temperature is 15 - 22 ° С.
2. Care for the stalk surface of the planted plants.
It includes mulching of the pristvolnoy surface, which performs the function of "closing" moisture after irrigation. Peat compost or chopped pine bark is used as mulch. In addition to mulching pristvolnyh spaces, it is necessary to produce their constant loosening. Loosening is carried out to a depth of 6-8 cm, while plant soil is periodically sprinkled into the near-ground spaces of planted plants mixed with peat in a layer of 4-6 cm.
5. Irrigation of the aerial parts of plants by small-drop spraying of leaves with water (the consumption rate is 2 l / m of leaf surface).
6. The use of growth promoters.
The introduction of growth stimulants in the zone of root systems produced simultaneously with irrigation. An effective growth promoter is the potassium salt of indolyl-3-acetic acid (heteroauxin, 92% soluble powder). The solution is introduced evenly over the soil surface with the calculation of the saturation of the volume of the well.
7. Systematically should check the attachment of trees to the supports, straighten the stakes, if necessary, change the stretching.
8. One of the important measures of care is the care of the trunk of newly planted plants, especially on the streets and highways with heavy traffic. It is recommended to leave the tree trunks for the first time (during the year) closed with a light, air-permeable cloth.
9. Weeding and loosening of pristvolnyh sites. These measures contribute to the elimination of excessive evaporation of moisture from the root zone of the soil. Loosening ensures optimal water and air permeability and facilitates access of oxygen to the roots. The loosening depth is no more than 5-6 cm, otherwise it is possible to damage the surface roots of the plants.
10. The most important event for the care of the aboveground part woody plants is pruning.
In the first months after planting, 2 types of pruning of woody plants are applied at the facility: molding pruning and sanitary pruning.
Forming pruning is applicable for trees in alleys and ordinary plantings. Pruning is done in order to give a certain shape to the crown, to achieve a uniform distribution of skeletal branches. Since the plantings on the object are young, there will be applied a weak pruning or pinching of the shoots (no more than 25-30% of the annual increase, for 2-3 buds). Between the old and the new sections it is necessary to leave shoots of 6-10 cm long.
The purpose of sanitary pruning is to form a uniformly transparent, well-aerated crown. This pruning removes branches that grow inside the crown and are pulled together, rubbing against each other (from the two close branches, the weaker branches are removed).
It is very important to consider the location of the branches. Remove the branches growing at an acute angle from the leader or growing vertically upwards, which, growing, turn into thick branches that prevent the growth of the main leader; with a strong wind, they usually break off, forming lacerations on the trunk.
Sanitary pruning is carried out during the entire growing season.
Shrub care activities.
All of the above measures for the care of trees are applicable in the care of shrubs. These activities include: systematic watering of planted plants, watering and mulching pristvolnyh circles, weeding weeding.
A molding trim will be applied to the bushes on this object, as well as to the trees, the purpose of which is to create an artificial bush form, to maintain this shape in the given parameters, to enhance the growth of lateral shoots. Pruning is carried out at the same level from the surface of the earth, from the side sections, giving the desired profile to the bush. Shoots are cut to 1/2 - 1/3 of the increment in the first year.
The hedges of shrubs at a young age are cut (sheared) 1-2 times during the growing season. The first pruning is carried out in March - April, before bud break.
Initial lawn care activities:
1. Mowing herbage.
It is carried out in order to activate the sod-forming process and tillering of grass, increase the resistance of the lawn to environmental influences and its decorative effect.
When mowing the lawn with lawn mowers, it is necessary to adjust the height of grass trimming. You can not cut more than 1/3 of the healthy surface of leaves and shoots.
An ordinary landscape gardening lawn used in the territory of the garden of a quiet holiday “Fenisk” must be mowed no lower than the height of the grass stand of 3–4 cm for fescue and bluegrass and at a height of 4–5 cm for coarse cereals. The multiplicity of mowing ordinary landscape lawns - once a decade.
The grass of a young lawn must be cut when the shoots reach a height of 12-15 cm.
2. Watering the lawn.
Grass should be provided with the necessary reserve of moisture to maintain its growth and decoration.
The optimum soil moisture under turf-forming grasses should be 70 - 75% of the total field moisture capacity of this soil. Watering and irrigation of the lawn is recommended before the soil is moistened to the depth of the root zone - 15 - 20 cm.
In large areas, watering the lawn is done using sprinklers. Plots of lawns on the slopes and slopes irrigated with hydro seeders.
Water the lawns immediately after mowing the grass.
3. Weed control on the lawn.
On the newly created lawns appear mainly annual weeds, which do not cause much damage to the lawn. The method of dealing with this type of weed plants is the systematic mowing of the lawn, due to which annual weeds do not have time to get disseminated and fall out of the grass stand of cultivated cereals.
4. Maintenance lawn.
Current repair includes works on loosening trampled areas, planting ground, pillaging and leveling the surface and sowing seeds of lawn grass with their subsequent embedding.
Activities for the care of tracks and playgrounds.
The road and footpath network and platforms located in the garden of a quiet holiday "Phoenix" carry sanitary, hygienic, architectural, artistic and utilitarian beginnings. Therefore, they need constant maintenance and proper maintenance - cleaning household and other garbage, weeding and mulching the surface of the road and path network, watering and washing coatings, removing weeds, caring for curbs and curbs, adding inert materials of the upper layer with rolling structures, structures and overhaul.
Cleaning of wide alleys, roads with hard surface is made by special cleaning machines. Small paths are cleaned with brushes on small tractors or manually with brooms from the edge of the tracks or platforms to the middle. During the summer, the tracks and playgrounds are systematically watered. The alleys and driveways with hard coating are watered from watering machines 1-2 times a day, with dust being washed away and removed into the storm net.
Weed control on weeds and grounds is carried out in 2 ways:
· Mechanical - weeding and cutting of weeds with special scrapers and hoes (labor-intensive and inefficient method, destroying the top layer of the road surface)
· Chemical - the use of various herbicides (a solution of 5 liters of the active ingredient of the drug in 80 liters of water) and the introduction of chemicals by sprinkling or watering the solution on the grown weed grass. The treatment is carried out in dry, windless weather at a temperature of 18 - 24 0 C.
Works on post-planting care are an integral part of the device of flower beds.
Care arrangements for flower beds.
1. Watering flower beds.
The most intensive and regular watering should be in the period of growth, budding and flowering, as well as the development of plant organs.
The irrigation rate for annuals is 15-20 l / m 2, for perennials - 30-40 l / m 2, for bulbous plants - 40-50 l / m 2 flower beds.
Watering is carried out in the evening or early in the morning. For watering, you must use special hoses with nozzles, the jet of which must be sprayed and evenly fall down.
2. Loosening the soil.
Conducted to preserve moisture in the root zone of the soil, improve air exchange in it, the destruction of weeds. The average depth of loosening is 3-5 cm, it depends on the nature of the occurrence of the roots.
In the absence of rain before loosening required watering.
3. Mulching the surface of flower beds.
As mulch, peat campsites, ground tree bark, and fine gravel are used. If the flower bed is new, mulch is applied to the surface of the flower bed with a layer of 2.5-3 cm. The term mulching: early spring - before the development of new shoots; Autumn - after pruning whitened shoots.
4. Removal of weeds.
It is necessary to carry out a systematic struggle with weeds, weeding flower beds. Also, a large mass of weeds are removed when loosening the soil.
Territory preparation. The territory intended for gardening is first of all cleared of garbage, then stumps are stubbed out and trees that have lost their decorative value are cut down.
If there are perennial weeds on the plot, they should be destroyed before preparing the soil mechanically or by spraying with herbicide solutions.
After the liberation of the territory from foreign objects, a rough layout is carried out and the surface of the site is leveled.
Then the plot is divided in accordance with the design plan, that is, they are marked with stakes or draw borders of roads and platforms with grooves.
In those places where the installation of water supply, sewage and lighting is supposed, they start gardening only after completion of the earthworks.
When planning the surface of the site and the production of other earthworks, it is recommended to pre-remove the top fertile soil layer, which can be used when setting up lawns, flower beds and for filling planting pits.
It should also advance to give an order to the local nursery for planting material for landscaping and prepare the necessary fertilizers.
Preparation of soil and planting holes. Under the tab of large green objects, the soil is prepared according to the system of black steam. In the autumn, plowing is carried out for an autumn planting to a depth of 35-40 cm and for spring - by 27 cm. The site is harrowed early in the spring and cultivated 3-4 times in spring and summer to a depth of 6-12 cm. 2-3 weeks before Autumn planting plow the land with rogues without dumps to a depth of 18-20 cm and carry out pre-planting harrowing. For spring planting in the fall, they plow plows without dumps to a depth of 30-35 cm and in the spring they are harrowed.
On southern chernozem and chestnut soils, autumn plowing is done to a depth of 50-60 cm using a subsoiler or a plantation plow.
On light chestnut soils with a large number of rhizomatous weeds, it is recommended to prepare the soil using a two-year black steam system. Planting pits and trenches in places where they will not interfere with pedestrian traffic, you need to prepare for winter and spring plantings in the fall, and for the autumn - 2 weeks before the start of plantings. In places with large pedestrian traffic (on the streets) landing pits have to be prepared on the eve or on the day of landing.
To reduce the cost of work on the preparation of the seats, it is necessary, where possible, to use mechanisms: pit diggers, drills, excavators, trenchers.
When digging holes and trenches, the subsoil is folded in one direction, and the soil in the other and the last one is used for planting. If the soil thrown out of the pits and trenches is completely unsuitable (construction debris, heavy clay, etc.), it is replaced with fertile soil delivered from another place.
On satisfactory soils for plant growth, pits and trenches are prepared in the following sizes (cm):
If the soil is poor or the site is littered with construction debris and imported vegetable land is required, the size of the landing pits and trenches is increased.
Landing time. Trees and shrubs can be planted in early spring, after thawing of the soil before the leaves begin to bloom, and in late autumn, during the leaves falling. Coniferous species (pine, spruce, thuja, juniper, etc.) are recommended to replant after cessation of growth - in August - early September, before the onset of autumn frosts, or in spring - in April, during the beginning of their growing season. Although in spring planting, tree species take root better than in autumn, but in the south a short spring, quickly giving way to hot, dry days, often does not allow mass plantings in a short time. Late with the spring work reduces the survival rate of plants.
Therefore, in practice, mass plantings are held in the fall. Such breeds as pedunculate oak, horse chestnut, poplar, it is still better to plant in the spring: their autumn plantings do not always give satisfactory results.
Individual trees and shrubs can be planted in summer, but this is associated with additional costs, requires special care for plants, so summer planting should be resorted to only in exceptional cases.
Standard hardwood seedlings are planted in spring and autumn with bare roots, and conifers are planted with only clod of earth. Trees of both hardwood and softwood at the age of over 12-15 years should be planted with a clod of earth, taken in board boxes or in special detachable metal flowerpots.
Transplantation of deciduous trees in the summer over the age of 7-8 years should be done with a clod of earth in a solid package, and younger trees in a soft package.
Transportation of planting material from the nursery to the landing site, although it is a simple, but rather crucial operation. The survival rate depends on how the saplings are transported and how they were stored until planting. Meanwhile, there are many examples where planting material is transported from the nursery to the landing site sometimes over a distance of ten kilometers, in sunny and windy weather without shelter of the root system. Often, planting material is brought in truck bodies to urban markets for sale, and within a few hours it is exposed to the sun and wind, and the buyer, in turn, delivers the purchased plants to the landing site also with open roots. As a result of such neglect of plants, the root system is dried up and the most active root lobes die.
Before transporting the seedlings, the roots should be immersed in earthen slush, the plants should be firmly laid in the inclined position of the roots in the side of the cabin on the straw layer so that the trunks and branches do not rub against each other, cover from above with a tarpaulin, burlap or matting. When loading seedlings into a car, it is necessary to ensure that different types do not mix.
Seedlings delivered to the landing site, you need to carefully unload and immediately prikopat in pre-prepared trenches. The depth and width of the trench should be such that the root system of the plants is freely placed in it. For standard seedlings, trenches with a depth of 50 cm are sufficient. One wall of the trench is made inclined, and the second wall is made steep.
When planting plants on the streets, where it is impossible to have prikhobochnye ditches, seedlings immediately spread on the seats, put in an inclined position in the pits or trenches and roots slightly sprinkled with earth.
In trenches, seedlings are added in rows in an inclined position, for which the first row of plants is laid on the inclined wall, the roots are covered with well-crushed earth, taking it from the side of the sheer wall. After closing the roots of the ground slightly, trampled and watered. Then, parallel to the first row, the second row of seedlings is laid, the roots are covered with earth, etc.
If the plants remain in the joke for the winter, the roots are covered with loose earth 15–20 cm above the root collar; around the joke make a ditch to drain water.
Standards for planting material. Depending on the type of landscaping, planting material (seedlings) should have a certain trunk height, trunk diameter, corresponding to the crown and root system, for which they set standards for saplings of trees and shrubs, which the nursery must adhere to when it leaves the plants.
Sample standards for decorative deciduous trees and shrubs are given in Appendices 5 and 6.
Landing technique. A 4–5 cm thick, sharpened bottom with a length of 5–5 cm and a length so pointed that the top of the stake was slightly lower than the crown after the tree was planted, was hammered into the prepared pit. In gardens and parks you can plant trees without stakes. Before filling the pit with earth, the bottom of the pit should be loosened to a depth of 10-15 cm. Then, fertile soil is filled into the pit with a mound about two-thirds of its depth and compacted by trampling. In a trench for planting hedges, the ground is filled with a roller with a height depending on the size of the root system.
Saplings before planting carefully inspect and all damaged, dry roots are cut with a sharp garden knife. The cuts are made obliquely so that they are facing the surface of the mound of the earth.
Before planting, it is useful to dip the roots in the earthen talker.
Planting a tree is more convenient for two people. One places the tree on the east side of the stake tightly in the center of the pit on the compacted mound of earth and spreads the roots. When installing a tree in a hole, it is necessary to ensure that the root neck is 6-8 cm above ground level so that after the precipitation of the ground in the pit the root neck is flush with the soil surface.
After pre-installing the tree in the pit, the second person evenly falls asleep to the roots with loose earth, and the first one at that time holds the tree by the trunk and slightly shakes it, so that the earth better fills the gaps between the roots. When the roots are covered with earth, the shaking of the tree is stopped, and the pit is filled with earth until the root collar.
In heavily arid areas, the tree should be planted so that after filling the roots around the tree a hole 10-12 cm deep is formed, where 2-3 buckets of water are poured. In order for the water not to spread outside the well, around it make an earthen roller with a height of 10-12 cm. Water compacts the soil, better connects it with the roots. When filling the pit, it is not recommended to compact the ground with the feet, which is often practiced, as the small, most active roots are often damaged during trampling. Post-plant irrigation is sufficient to compact the soil around the root system.
To the established cola they tie up a tree. The garter is made an eight in two places: in the middle of the trunk and at the top - 5 cm below the top of the stake. Use a bast, rope and other soft material for the garter.
After watering, the well is covered with a thin layer of humus or dry earth. With autumn planting around the root of the neck of the seedlings for the winter they pour a mound of earth, 20-25 cm high, which is destroyed in spring.
When spring planting after her need to cut the crowns of hardwood, giving all the same shape. Hardwoods with large apical buds (horse chestnut, ash, walnut, etc.) are not recommended for pruning.
Individual shrubs are planted in the pits as well as trees, but their roots fall asleep 3-5 cm above the root collar. Under each bush poured 1-1.5 buckets of water.
When planting a hedge, plants are placed on a cord on a roller at a given distance, the roots spread out on the roller surface and covered with fertile soil, then they cut the crowns of bushes at the same height and water at the rate of 3 buckets of water for 1 running. m
To hold irrigation water after backfilling the trench, the soil surface along the fence is designed as a bed with raised edges. When water is absorbed, the soil is covered with dry earth.
Caring for trees and shrubs. In dry conditions, the care of trees and shrubs plays an extremely important role. Proper care ensures a high survival rate of plants, good development and significantly increases their viability. Particularly needed care for young plants in the first years after landing on permanent seatswhen they are not yet strong and are not able to withstand the effects of adverse weather.
Caring for trees and shrubs consists in watering, loosening the soil, feeding, caring for the crown, etc.
Watering. The number and timing of irrigation depends on the moisture reserves in the soil, weather conditions, the type of plants and the phases of their development. You need to water the plants during the period of intensive growth, the duration of which is different for different breeds. So, the Canadian chestnut, horse chestnut grow intensively until May; white acacia, pedunculate oak, common ash - until May - June; field maple and ash green - until June; Norway maple and silver maple - until mid-July. During these periods it is necessary to strengthen the feeding of plants. In the dry summer, 1-2 additional irrigation is recommended, especially moisture-loving species.
Table 5. Norms and frequency of watering trees and shrubs (according to the Rostov Research Institute of the Academy of Public Utilities)
To determine the duration of irrigation should establish the degree of soil moisture. There are no signs of water in the dry soil to the touch, it does not cool the hands. In this case, watering is necessary. Wet soil retains the shape given to it when squeezed in a hand.
Watering should be stopped in the first half of August. The last watering should be carried out in the fall after leaf fall, before the soil freezes. If after winter the soil is not wet enough, then watering should begin before bud break.
Shrubs are watered 15 days before the beginning of flowering and during the period of intensive growth of shoots, as well as during a long drought.
Loosening. The soil of pristvolny windows and strips must be kept in a clean state of weeds and loose condition. To do this, it is necessary to periodically loosen it with the simultaneous destruction of weeds. The multiplicity of loosening and weeding depends on the condition of the soil, the amount of precipitation, the nature and development of herbs.
Maintaining the soil in a cultivated state is especially important during a period of vigorous plant growth, that is, in the spring and in the first half of summer.
Spring loosening of pristvolnyh areas produced in the first decade of May at a depth of 12-14 cm, and summer loosening (2-3 times) - at a depth of 8-10 cm with a shovel or hoe. Loosen the soil should be careful not to cut the roots.
In the autumn, before leaf fall, it is useful to carry out deep loosening. In this case, precipitation will be more fully used.
Minor loosening of the soil is necessary after each watering or heavy rainfall to destroy the crust formed on the soil surface.
After 6-8 years after planting trees, open strips along them can be sown with herbs. Pristvolnye circles should always be kept clean from grasses and loose condition.
Plant nutrition. To create conditions for normal nutrition and the development of green space, it is necessary to systematically introduce organic and mineral fertilizers.
For dressing use high-speed solution of slurry, in which add superphosphate. Dissolved fertilizer is better to make after rain or watering in cloudy weather in the amount of 2-3 liters per 1 square. m. with the addition to the slurry of 10-20 g of superphosphate.
Mineral fertilizers are dissolved in water at the rate of: ammonium sulfate - 30-50 g, superphosphate - 30-60 and potassium salt - 15-20 g per 1 sq. Km. m. For fertilizer application, the edges of the pit make grooves about 20–30 cm wide and deep. It is useful to make additional dressings deeper, making a wooden stake in the grooves of a well or a slot, and in places where there is no threat of damage to underground utilities - with a crowbar or shovel.
The first feeding is carried out in mid-April, the second - in the first decade of May and the third - in June.
Care of the crown. In tree species, crown formation and development usually occurs naturally. In the middle age of a tree, human intervention should be limited to cleaning, thinning and regulating the growth of improperly developing shoots. It is impossible to cut the main shoots (branches), when this is not necessary, since such pruning in the future leads to the thickening of the crown and the improper development of young shoots.
When pruning trees, you must:
cut out all dry, overlapping, rubbing and growing shoots down or deep into;
to increase the growth of the axial shoot, shorten all below located on it;
do not allow shoots of subsequent orders to overtake growth shoots of the first order.
When pruning shoots need to remove thorns, so that the plane of the cut could heal quickly. Trimming should be done on the ring.
If it is necessary to correct the direction of growth of the shoot (for example, if o is “directed inside the crown), it should be cut off to the bud located in the opposite direction.
If there are two branches, rubbing against each other, leave the one that corresponds to the correct direction and is the strongest, and the other is completely cut.
Fat shoots (tops) growing vertically on the bends of the branches should be removed if they are not needed to replace the missing branches in the crown. Pruning time flowering shrubs depends on their biological characteristics.
Shrubs whose flower buds are laid in autumn and flowering occurs in spring and early summer (lilac, three-lobed cherry, forsythia, Japanese quince, Van Gutta spirea and medium, Tatar honeysuckle, common barberry, etc.) should be cut after flowering, as during spring pruning their flowering weakens. Withered shoots are shortened by one third or half their length.
Shrubs that bloom in mid-summer or in the second half of it (golden currant, red turf, Japanese spirea, Douglas, willow billiard, single-pest green-colored hawthorn, etc.) should be pruned in the fall after leaf fall.
Shrubs sensitive to frost should be pruned in the spring before sap flow begins.
Older shrubs that have weakened growth and shoots begin to dry out should be “planted on a stump”, that is, the crown should be cut off at a height of 20-25 Cm from the ground. Of the abundantly emerging young shoots leave strong and well-positioned. Thin and disfiguring crown removed.
Of all the flowering shrubs most demanding pruning roses. They begin pruning in the spring after removing the winter tire. At the same time, dying off and unnecessary branches and shoots are removed and the remaining ones are shortened in order to induce the growth of lower buds providing flowering.
Depending on the group of roses, short, medium and long pruning of shoots is used. With a short pruning leave a stump with 2-3 eyes, with an average - with 4-8 eyes. With long pruning, only the tops of the shoots are removed. Briefly cut hybrid tea, polyanthus, hybrid-polyanthus roses (hybrid-polyanthus pruned into 3-5 eyes) and standard roses.
Remontant roses are subject to medium pruning, with the exception of low-growing and vigorous varieties of hybrid tea and other groups. Long pruning is used only for strongly growing varieties.
In all cases, the cut is made over the eye somewhat obliquely and completely smooth, avoiding the separation of the cortex.
Rejuvenation of trees and shrubs. To rejuvenate the trees should be approached carefully, because not all rocks tolerate the filing of the crown and this operation often disfigure trees.
Remove the crown or part of it should be in the case of mechanical damage or when the tree is aging: growth stops, in the lower part of the crown fat shoots appear, the top dries out.
The nature of tree trimming during rejuvenation depends on the condition of the tree. If only the tops of the branches dry, then pruning is done moderately, that is, 1/3 of the branch is cut off. In this case, the cut must be made at the base of a healthy shoot of the following order, located on this branch and directed toward the periphery of the crown.
In the case of significant crown drying, the main branches are cut by about half, and if necessary, more, but always leaving, at least a small length, the main branches, which will act as guides when a new young crown is formed.
It is better to stretch the rejuvenation of the tree for 2 years, first removing the top and the main branches of small diameter.
Separate thick branches cut down at the very base, flush with the trunk of the annular flow. This operation should be carried out in the following order: first, a branch is cut from the bottom 20-25 cm from the trunk, and then a second cut is made a little further from the top of the trunk until the branch falls. The remaining part of the branch cut off at the same time at the very trunk. When rejuvenating, thick branches should be cut only when absolutely necessary.
Wounds after pruning with a diameter of more than 2 cm should be painted over with oil paint, preferably the color of the bark of the tree.
Simultaneously with rejuvenation, it is necessary to remove the top layer of earth around the tree and replace it with good vegetable earth, and in the spring to produce abundant watering and apply liquid fertilizer.
Young shoots that appear after rejuvenation from dormant and adventitious buds on the trunk and pruned branches should be cut and trimmed so that the new crown is formed correctly. To do this, cut out on the ring all the shoots appearing on the trunk below the crown, as well as from the knot between the branches, and thin, intertwined and inward-facing crowns grown on the cut branches.
The remaining shoots, as they grow, over the next three to four years, are gradually thinned out, and the rest are pruned so as to form the correct crown. It should be shoots of the 1st order, about the same amount as before rejuvenation, and from them shoots of subsequent orders.
Hemp at the base of young shoots rot, so they must be cut.
To rejuvenate the shrubs resorted to when they begin to bare bare bottom. In such cases, the bush is “planted on a stump”, that is, all shoots are removed, leaving only a stump in 10-15 cm. After such an operation, young growth appears from below, from which the bush is formed. Rejuvenation is often applied to hedges, when due to untimely pruning they grow into a height or branch only in the upper part.
Old trees that have lost their decorativeness, growing in gardens and parks, on main and central streets, on main alleys and in other, most visited places, it is not advisable to rejuvenate. They should be removed and instead planted large, healthy trees of the same species.
Care tree trunk. All shoots that develop at the base of the trunk and along its entire length should be cut into a ring. In old trees, the trunks of peeling bark and lichen should be cleaned.
Do not leave open wounds. Uninfected wounds should be painted over with oil paint or covered with garden putty. The decayed wound, regardless of its size, must be removed from decay, disinfected with creosote or 5% solution of copper sulphate and covered with oil paint. Healed wounds should be inspected annually, and in the event of cracks and ebluses gloss over.
Cancer related lesions, usually black. They gradually increase and, if not treated, can cause the death of the tree.
Cancer treatment consists of thorough cleaning of dead bark and wood from healthy tissues and smearing the inside of the wound with pure tar, without affecting the edges of the living bark. After the tar has been absorbed into the wood, the wound is coated with clay mixed in equal proportion with cow dung and tied with tow. Periodically, the affected area is checked and, if necessary, the treatment is repeated.
Although the treatment of wounds is laborious work, it is fully justified, since it lasts a tree for a longer life.
Care for hedges. In the first year of planting, care for a hedge consists in removing weeds, loosening the soil and watering. Depending on the weather during the growing season, the hedges are watered 7-8 times with a flow rate of 30 liters per 1 running meter. m. Pruned plants only in the case of the formation of too long shoots.
In subsequent years, hedges are regularly cut, dry shoots are removed from the bushes, they are loosening and weeding the soil. Haircut begins in the second year after planting. Each year, pruning is done 4–5 cm higher than the previous one, and thus the desired height is gradually achieved.
Most fences need to be cut at least twice a year: the first time - in early spring before the appearance of the leaves or in the autumn after the leaf fall; the second time is in the middle of summer (at the end of June or beginning of July), after summer shoots develop. In the latter case, hedging trim to the level of the first haircut of the current year.
Hedges of fast-growing plants are trimmed several times during the growing season. Its multiplicity is determined by the speed of growth of shoots. Slow-growing breeds need only one haircut - in early spring.
To give a hedge a greater density and better foliage, the hedge consisting of shade-tolerant rocks is decorated to a rectangular shape, trimmed from the sides and from above; from light-loving rocks - to a form tapering upwards.
Photophilous fast growing plants it is more difficult to hold in a rectangular shape, the shoots in the lower part of the crown are weaker than in the upper part, and the strong-growing shoots of the upper part of the crown obscure and drown growing below, with the result that the fence is quickly exposed. In a hedge with sloping side planes more penetrates light, air and precipitation.
The soil around the hedge should be kept loose and free from weeds. All drying shoots should be cut in a timely manner.
