Rose spiny pruning. Pruning miniature and polyanthus roses. What you need to have for trimming park roses

Park roses have long attracted gardeners for their abundant flowering and fruiting. They are completely unpretentious and very resistant to frost - able to live from 2 years and each season to enjoy lush flowers, each of which has up to 150 petals. To care for shrubs, you do not need to be a specialist, it is enough to know the small secrets from the site.

How to cut a park rose in the spring?

Pruning is needed to improve the flowering of roses and increase the volume of the future flower. It is best to start in early spring, when the rudiments have already dried up, but the shoots have not sprouted. This is necessary in order to identify old woody branches and prevent sluggish flowering.

Reserve in advance with all the necessary tools to avoid cutting yourself and complete the procedure successfully: heavy gauntlets to the elbow, secateurs (preferably with long handles) and a small handsaw.

Instructions for pruning park roses

Identify weaknesses:

Dry, unstable long or damaged shoots.
Stems that can grow below the graft site.
Branches growing in the center or rubbing against each other.

Determine where to cut:

Loose branches should be cut to a height of 70-90 cm.
Shoots growing below the grafting site.
Stems cut above red buds.
Remove all diseased branches.
Cut all dry cloth to healthy wood.

The cut must be done at an angle of 45 degrees 5 mm above the healthy kidney. Do not forget to sterilize the tools for the prevention of disease, and cut off all the flowering inflorescences to the first leaf of several leaves of a healthy bud.

There are 3 groups of park roses:

First - have powerful basal growths, flowering occurs on short side shoots of the first two orders of magnitude. Require minimal trimming. These are R. Moschata, R. Spinosissima, R. rugose and R. gallica (fr).

The second - the most popular group of modern park roses. They bloom only in the middle of summer on the side short branches of 1 and 2 orders. These are R. Alba (white), R. centifolia (table), moss and damask roses.

Third - this low-growing shrubs the second group: Moyesi roses, tea and remontant roses, as well as roses resembling Madame Isaac, Fontaine, Preyr, Zephyrin Drouin.

Should park roses be cut for the winter?

Despite the fact that park roses are resistant to low temperatures, they still need to be cut to obtain new lateral flowering shoots for the next season. For this, all strong gains are shortened by 5-10 cm. Young shrubs are not too susceptible to frost, so the branches are wrapped in craft paper, and the shrubs are spud earth. Pay your eyes to the same, this lesson is no less interesting than roses!

How to plant park roses in the spring?

Planting park roses in the spring season is best done from late April to mid-May. It is better to place seedlings at a distance of 1 - 1.5 meters from each other in a well-lit and ventilated place. Pits should be about 70 cm deep and 90 cm in diameter. The soil should be loose, but if it is too clayy, add a little bit of sand. It is not recommended to plant park roses near trees.

Park roses are often grown without pruning at all. But without pruning, they grow well and bloom for several years, and then the flowering weakens and the bush becomes very thick and loses its decorative effect.

Primary annual pruning

Roses, including park ones, are cut to improve flowering - to increase the size of flowers, their number and duration of flowering. In addition, on a pruned bush, it is easier to cope with pests and diseases, such bushes are easier to cover for the winter.

Pruning time

It is better to start pruning in early spring, when the shoots have not yet begun to grow, and the buds have already dried up.

Throughout the season, faded flowers, wild shoots and dry shoots should be removed.

What you need to have for trimming park roses

Almost all varieties of park roses are very prickly, so for cutting you need to stock up on thick mittens, long to the elbow, through which the spines do not penetrate.

You will also need a long-hand pruner to get to the center of the bush, which should be thinned out, and a hacksaw for cutting off thick old branches.

A small tutorial on how to prune park roses

What shoots should be cut

Before pruning carefully inspect the bush and determine:

Dry, damaged and thin long shoots
Shoots that grow below the grafting site if the rose is grafted.
Branches that rub against each other or grow through the center of the bush.

Determine exactly where to cut

Cut the shoots above the dense red buds that "look" out of the bush.
Cut long and thin branches into half of their length or to a height of 60-90 cm.
Completely remove shoots that grow below the grafting site.
Remove diseased and gnarled branches, especially those that grow in the middle of the bush.
If there is a brown (dry) cloth in the center of the shoot, then such a shoot should be cut to healthy wood.

Cut right

- Cut about 0.5 cm above the healthy kidney. And at an angle of 45 degrees. The kidney and the highest point of the cut must be on one side of the shoot so that the water from the rain rolls away from the kidney.

- To prevent the spread of disease, after pruning the next bush, sterilize tools in a solution of bleach: 1 part lime and 9 parts water.

- Remove faded buds to the first leaf, which consists of 5 or 7 leaflets and a healthy bud.

After the main pruning roses to stimulate growth.

Pruning of old park roses

To trim shoots that grow above the height and width of the hedge, you must first decide what form hedge. It is especially important to do this in the first years, when the bushes in the hedge are only developing.

Spring pruning is to remove a large number of shoots. They do this every year, because the plants grow actively every year.

If the hedge of the park roses is old, then you need to systematically remove the old branches. Then large “holes” will not form and the growth of new shoots will occur evenly. Shrubs will bloom better if you give them more space.

Roses are more suitable for creating free-form hedges, although some lovers make hedges of roses of a strict geometric shape.

But in this case you will have to part with a large number of buds and the hedge will not bloom so abundantly. For hedges of geometric shape, it is better to choose other plants.

By partial trimming and neatly updating the hedge, you can maintain a cascading wall of flowers that will be a uniquely charming living wall.

Pruning is the main condition for the intensive growth and abundant bloom of garden roses. As a result, pruning old branches are destroyed, the formation of new shoots is enhanced, additional foliage appears, which ensures good growth and abundant bloom of roses.

Since the sizes of roses range from miniature, only 0.3 m tall, to powerful climbing plants, reaching 10-12 meters in height, they are required to maintain their free flowering and certain sizes. different ways trimming.

Each shoot actively grows and blooms for several years, after which the tip of the shoot begins to die, and a new shoot develops from the bud located below on the stem of the bud.

Therefore, if the bush is not cut, it will turn into a thicket of dead and living shoots.

The purpose of pruning is to get rid of old shoots every year and to stimulate the regular development of strong and healthy young shoots.

For pruning roses use pruner, always sharp, as the surface of all slices should be smooth. To remove thick stems (thicker than 2 cm) use a garden saw.

The timing of pruning.

Pleafy multicolor roses pruned in late summer or autumn, after flowering.

Bush, standard and other types of climbing roses (planted in autumn and winter, as well as long-established) cut in early spring.

Shrub and Standard Rosesintended for planting in the spring, pruned just before planting. Best time for pruning - at the very beginning of growth, when buds only swell in the upper part of the shoots, but leaves have not yet appeared.

Too early pruning can lead to the fact that the kidneys wake up prematurely, and during return frosts will beat them with frost.

Too late pruning leads to a weakening of the plant. This happens because the active growth of the kidneys stimulates the movement of the juice along the shoots, and during pruning at this time the plant can lose a lot of nutrients.

Pinch of roses.

Adult bushes are pruned annually; a young rose sapling planted is formed by pinching the ends of the shoots.

In young saplings, in order to obtain a well-developed symmetric bush, they form, for which young shoots pinch when the 4th leaf appears. In the first year after planting, all emerging buds are removed from them for plumping, plucking them when they reach the size of a pea. Pinching contributes to the emergence and development of new shoots, and this allows you to create a good shrub with several symmetrically developed shoots.

In August, the formation can be stopped and allowed the plant to bloom. If the shoots and buds do not pinch, then after flowering the plant will stop growing until the fall, will be poorly developed and poorly formed, which can reduce its winter hardiness.

Pinching, semi-fleeting, ground cover and park roses do not need pinching.

The degree of pruning roses.

According to the degree of pruning of plants, they are distinguished: strong, moderate, and light.

With a strong pruning shoots pruned at the level of the third and fourth buds from the base of the shoot. As a result, short, strong stems with a height of 12-15 cm remain. Strong, or short pruning is demanded by newly planted rose bushes, so often adult bushes are pruned hybrid tea rosesthat grow to participate in exhibitions.

Apply a strong pruning in relation to adult rose bushes grown to decorate the garden, is not recommended, except for very weak bushes of tea and hybrid roses and to rejuvenate thickened bushes. Strong pruning is never applied to rooted floribunda rose bushes.

With moderate pruningshoots are cut at about half the height (at the level of 5 - 7 buds from the base of the shoot), weakened shoots are cut even shorter.

Moderate pruning is used in relation to almost all adult bushes of hybrid tea roses growing on ordinary garden soil. In relation to the rooted floribunda rose bushes, a slightly modified mode of moderate pruning is used.

With good care to obtain high-quality flowers suitable for decorating the garden, moderate pruning is enough.

With light pruningthe stems are cut by about two-thirds of the height (at a level of 8–12 buds from the base of the shoot), that is, the stems remaining after brightening the bush are just slightly shortened. Light pruning is not recommended to apply in a row for several years because in this case the bushes are strongly drawn out and do not bloom well, although they bloom earlier than usual. In some cases, only light pruning can be used, for example, very vigorous varieties of hybrid tea roses can be pruned, as well as all types of roses growing on sandy soils or in areas with gassy air.

Types of pruned roses.

By time distinguish spring, summer and autumn trim.

Spring pruning is the main and necessary for the formation of the bush, ensuring abundant flowering, obtaining large flowers, well-developed replacement shoots.

Summer pruning helps regulate flowering. In varieties that repeat flowering in the summer after the end of the first flowering, faded flowers and inflorescences are cut off from the top of the stem. The cut is made over the second or third leaf with a well-developed bud, facing outward from the bush. This saves substances that the plant would have spent on the formation of fruits, and the emergence of new flowering shoots is stimulated. The only exceptions are roses grown to collect seeds, and those that are characterized by one flowering and beautiful fruits that adorn the plant in the fall. In the period of summer pruning, shoots that thicken the center of the bush are also removed. The so-called blind shoots without flowers and strong "fat" shoots that do not have flowers or form underdeveloped flowers are cut in half, and then they form one or two normal flowering shoots with high-quality flowers. To regulate the timing of flowering, pinching of shoots is used during the beginning of budding, as a result of which 1 to 2 side shoots develop on the pinned shoots, which bloom 20-25 days later than normal. At the end of summer, faded flowers should not be removed, since their removal may cause an undesirable growth of shoots during the autumn period.

Autumn pruning held before the winter shelter of roses. Cut out the weak and diseased, growing undigested parts of the shoots, remove the buds, flowers and fruits, and also remove the foliage from the branches.

Removal of wild growth.

In grafted roses below the site of inoculation and shoots of wild shoots often appear from the roots, which differ from the cultural rose in shallow foliage and sometimes spinous. It develops very quickly and weakens the inoculation of the cultivar, which can lead to its death, as a result of which the bush “runs wild”. The formation of wild sprouts contributes to poorly compacted soil when planting, frostbite of the bush, leading to the death of the grafted variety, damage to the roots when loosening the soil and improper removal of the root growth.

Wild shoots must be cut at the very beginning of its appearance! To do this, dig out the ground around the escaped shoots and cut the shoots at the very base. Cutting it at the soil level only stimulates its growth, and it will give several shoots from the buds that are underground. After cutting, the place where it was cut is overgrown, it is necessary to close the ground again.

In standard roses, wild shoots appear not only from the roots, but also from the stem, due to the development of dormant buds. This growth should also be removed as soon as it appears.

General principles of pruning roses.

Growing buds ("eyes") roses are located in the axils of the leaves. After the leaf has fallen, they can easily be seen directly above the leaf scar. Pruning is carried out as close as possible to the kidney.

They work with a sharp shears and a knife, as a torn cut from blunt tools can lead to the death of a branch. The cut should be no higher than 0.5 cm from the kidney and have a slight slope from it. If the cut is made higher, then the stump will die off; if it is lower, it is possible to damage the kidney or prevent infection through the wound. Incorrect slope of the cut will lead to retention of moisture by the kidney and its subsequent decay.

Cut to healthy tissue. If the core is brown, the branch is cut to a healthy white core.

Pruned on the kidney, located on the outer side of the branch, so as not to obscure the center of the crown. In roses with drooping branches, sometimes pruning of some stems to the bud, located on the inner side of the branch, is useful for vertical growth.

In powerful plants of roses, often after cutting from one bud, two or three shoots begin to grow. In this case, leave one escape, removing all others.

All dead and diseased stems, weak and thin growths are completely cut off. They should be cut to the level of the soil or to a healthy stem.

If the two stalks intersect, cut one of them below the intersection point . On bush or climbing roses it is not always easy to do, but, if possible, do not allow the stalks to rub one against the other or props.

It is always necessary to maintain a sufficient spacing between the stems to ensure the breathability of the crown and the access of light to the leaves. This reduces the likelihood of diseases such as black spot, powdery mildew and rust, developing in conditions of stagnant air. All cut parts of the bush are burned to prevent the spread of disease.

Pruning hybrid tea and remontant roses.

The task of trimming hybrid tea and remontant roses is to stimulate the formation of strong basal shoots and the formation of a spherical bush with an open center and evenly spaced stems.

Hybrid tea and remontant roses bloom on the growth of the current year and need annual moderate or relatively strong pruning. This ensures the branching of the plant and the constant formation of powerful young shoots. Pruning should be done from mid-February to the end of March. Very powerful roses (with stems 1.2–1.8 m long) require light pruning, as strong will lead to the formation of large and often non-flowering shoots.

In the acquired seedling, the ends of the shoots are trimmed slightly, as well as long, thick or damaged roots. Shorten each branch, leaving 2-4 buds on it (up to 15 cm from the soil level). This stimulates the formation of strong basal shoots. If the soil is too sandy and it lacks nutrients, apply a more moderate pruning (up to 4-6 buds, or 20 cm from the level of the soil) in the first year and more severe - the next.

In the second year after planting, tea hybrid and remontant roses require moderate pruning. They shorten the most powerful (thick) stems to 4-6 buds (20 cm from the soil level), and less powerful ones to 2−4 buds (15 cm). This pruning method gives the best results. With the aging of the bush, completely remove two or three stems per year.

Pruningoz floribunda group.

Floribunda group roses are more powerful than most hybrid tea and remontant roses and form large inflorescences of small flowers. Sometimes it is very difficult to ensure optimal flowering of these roses. Strong pruning, as for hybrid tea and remontant roses, can deplete them for several years, while weak leads to the formation of large bushes with thin, thin growths.

The recommended moderate pruning is successful, especially in windy areas (pruning is 6–8 buds, up to 30–45 cm from the soil level). But it does not always lead to continuous summer flowering, and some old stems die at the same time and are not replaced by root shoots.

The most satisfactory was the combination of light pruning of some stems — for early flowering — and strong cutting of others — to stimulate the growth of basal shoots and later flowering.

At the acquired seedling, before planting, cut off the stalks of the strong 3-5 buds (up to 15-22 cm from the level of the soil) and remove all weak.

In the second year, all the major annual basal branches are shortened by about a third, and all the remaining side branches are cut by 2–3 buds (up to 10–15 cm from their base). Strong growths on old stems should be cut completely or 3-5 buds to open the center of the bush.

In the third and subsequent years spend rejuvenating pruning. Strong annual branches are cut by a third of their length, and biennial branches are cut by 3-5 buds (up to 15-20 cm from the soil level). If the bush is thickened, separate old stems are removed entirely.

Trimming is carried out annually from mid-February to mid-March.

Pruning miniature and polyanthus roses.

Miniature roses are a very common group of short roses (0.3-0.6 m high). The shape of the flowers they look like roses from the groups of tea-hybrid and floribunda and bloom on the growth of the current year.

Miniature roses are pruned in the same way as hybrid tea and remontant, but it is not recommended to prune the plants that have just been planted. In miniature roses, sometimes very strong shoots are formed, breaking the symmetry of the bush. To maintain its balanced growth, such shoots are completely removed with early spring pruning. If strong shoots are formed continuously, pruning should be carried out as for the floribunda group of roses.

Polyanthus roses are a group of short, bushy, often reparative plants. They rarely reach a height of 0.5-1 m and form a large number of rather branchy, thin increments.

In the first year after planting, young polyanthus roses need light pruning: shortening strong stems by a third of their length and trimming weak, thin and branched growths per ring.

In the second and subsequent years, old, weak, diseased and dead stalks are pruned. Light pruning is done to maintain a bushless form and shorten strong stems by a third to prolong the flowering period.

Trimming climbing roses.

Climbing Roses bloom profusely, forming beautiful and dense inflorescences. These include four groups of roses, between which there are no clear boundaries, so the methods for pruning are not always clearly separated.

If there is enough space, new growths of climbing roses are preferable to form as horizontally as possible, while maintaining a balanced plant shape. If only a few flowering lateral shoots are usually formed on the tops of the vertical stalks, then on the stems formed horizontally, they appear along their entire length, thus creating a much more attractive appearance.

The winnowing of roses depends on top dressing, especially in the plants of the first group, in which all the old stems are pruned annually. To prevent wind damage and facilitate skeletal formation, all new growths should be tied up as they appear.

The first group of climbing roses includes varieties of true multi-flowered roses, such as, for example, Dorothy Perkins and Excellence, obtained from the rose Vikhura. They bloom in June - July on the side shoots of the long, flexible basal stalks of the past year.

When planting at a sapling, all strong stems are cut to 25-35 cm from their base, and weak gains are cut to the ring. This radical initial pruning stimulates strong growth during the first year, although the color will only start on next year.

The next year after planting, after flowering, usually in August-September, all faded shoots are cut to the ring, and the young basal ones are tied up to replace the old stems with them. The following summer, they form blooming side shoots. If space allows, most new shoots are formed as horizontally as possible in order to maximally stimulate the formation of flowering side shoots.

But it also happens that only a few basal shoots are formed. In this case, they retain some of the strongest old stems, and their lateral shoots are cut after flowering into 2-3 buds (up to 10-15 cm from the base).

Second groupclimbing roses includes such vigorous varieties as Albertine and Chaplins Pink. These roses bloom once, in summer, on the lateral shoots of last year’s long stalks. They differ from true many-flowered roses in that they form only a few basal shoots annually, since the bulk of the growths are formed above, on old stems. The pruning task is to remove the old stalks as new ones appear.

After planting, roses of this group need the same pruning as the roses of the first group.

On the second, third and subsequent years pruning is carried out soon after the end of flowering. One or two old stalks are completely removed and in their place any root shoots that have begun to grow are placed. In the absence of basal shoots, one or two old stalks are cut to 30-45 cm from the base.

Shorten the old stalks to the place from which the strong young growth began to grow. Form it as horizontally as possible. All short side shoots are cut by 2–3 buds (up to 15 cm from the base).

To the third group of climbing roses include multi-flowered roses that bloom on the growth of the current year, climbing hybrid tea and floribunda group roses. Thanks to the long and flexible stems, roses of this group are ideal for forming on walls, fences and gazebos.

Before planting, roses of this group do not need serious pruning, with the exception of light pruning of roots and removal of damaged tops and weak growth. This is due to the fact that most of the third group roses are climbing mutants of bush varieties and heavy pruning before planting can cause a return to the bush form.

For these roses, it is important to form a skeleton of powerful, evenly spaced stems, since their young shoots are formed mostly on the main stems, and strong basal shoots appear rarely.

Horizontal or angled formation of a plant at an early stage will help prevent its bottom being strongly exposed.

On the second and subsequent years, pruning and the formation of adult roses of this group is limited only by summer pruning of wilted flowers, except for maintaining the size of the plant within the space set aside for it. In late autumn or winter, before regrowing, sick, dead and weak stems should be pruned. Throughout the growing season, new growths are placed in the free parts of the crown and they cut off all faded lateral shoots into 3-4 buds (15 cm from their base).

In old bushes, sometimes weak and depleted growths should be cut off, leaving only short hemp at the base. This stimulates the formation of one or two powerful basal shoots.

Fourth group climbing roses includes repair pyramidal roses that bloom on the growth of the current year. They differ from roses of the third group in more moderate, usually vertical growth, rarely exceeding 2.5—3 m. Their stems are less flexible and more suitable for growth along vertical supports and forming in a limited horizontal space.

Planted seedlings of this group are treated the same way as roses of the third group. Before planting, pruned roots and remove all damaged tops and weak gains. Considering their natural vertical growth, the conductors do not form horizontally.

On the second and in the following years, summer pruning of adult pyramidal roses is carried out, which amounts to removing wilted inflorescences. In late autumn or early winter, weak, diseased and dead growths are pruned, some conductors and side shoots are shortened on the main stems to maintain the symmetric shape of the plant. To stimulate the growth of basal shoots, cut off the old stalks by two thirds of their length. In thickened plants, one or two of the oldest stalks are cut out.

Pruning park (bush) roses.

Park (bush) roses, planted in groups, a separate bush or in borders, look great in summer and autumn, especially in places where the usual garden roses do not look at all.

Park (bush) roses, as a rule, are recommended not to cut at all or to confine to a small formation. Without pruning, they usually grow and bloom well for several years, but this practice, although attractive, does not always ensure optimal flowering of plants. For best results, park roses should be pruned annually, even if this pruning will be done in very small sizes. To simplify this process as much as possible, the park roses were divided into three groups. However, the boundaries between groups are not always clear and clear, which sometimes leads to some confusion of methods, and for individual roses, which cannot be definitely included in any of these groups, and modifying the methods of pruning.

Pruning roses is carried out to stimulate the formation of strong growths in the lower part of the bush, including the basal, and to replace older stems that are not so powerful and rarely blooming.

It is also important to keep in mind that the plants of some varieties of roses form flowers both on the growths of the current year, and on the side branches of the first and second order, located on older stems, that some bloom once a year, others (repair) until late autumn.

In the first group of spray roses includes roses of different types (except climbing), requiring minimal pruning, including: spiny rose (Rosa spinosissima) and its hybrids, wrinkled rose (R. riigosa) and its hybrids, French rose (R. gallica), hybrids of musk rose ( R. moschata). Almost all of these roses grow in rather thick bush and bloom mainly on short side branches of the first and second order, located on biennial and older stems. These plants regularly produce powerful basal growths.

In the first and second years after planting pruning is carried out according to the following recommendations:

1. When planting, they do not prune; they only remove thick and damaged roots and shorten undeveloped and damaged stems.

2. Properly position the stalks to form a strong skeleton. After this, thin and weak growth is removed after flowering, and dead and diseased growths are cut off as they are detected.

3. Withered flowers should be regularly removed, except for varieties with attractive fruits. Such light pruning is especially useful for repairing park roses, such as musk, since their energy after pruning will be directed to the formation of new flowering side shoots.

4. In winter, all strong gains pinch a few centimeters; this will stimulate the formation of flowering side shoots of the first and second order in the summer and will remove the source of infection, since thin and tender tops are often affected by powdery mildew.

In the third and subsequent years, one or two poorly flowering old stems can be pruned in winter to stimulate the formation of replacement root shoots and thus maintain a strong skeleton. For very old bushes, stronger pruning is sometimes needed: in winter, very old and incorrectly positioned main stems are cut in order to maintain the desired shape of the skeleton.

The second group of spray roses includes bushes that bloom mainly on short side branches of the first and second order, located on the biennial and older stems. This group includes old traditional varieties of roses such as white (Rosa alba), table (R. centifolia), moss (R. centifolia var. Miiscosa) roses, as well as most Damascus roses. This group includes a large number of modern park roses, blooming only once in the middle of summer.

In the first year, annual bushes should be cut, as well as roses of the first group. Before planting, undeveloped and damaged branches and damaged roots are removed.

In the second and subsequent years, adult bushes of the second group of park roses regularly form strong growths in the lower part of the bush, including basal shoots, which grow 1.5-2.5 meters in a year.

In the second year, these long stems form a large number of flowering side shoots, which often weigh the stems towards the ground with their weight, creating the danger of their breaking.

This nature of growth requires the use of pruning methods other than the first group in order to preserve the natural characteristics of the plant and to prevent the heavy flowering branches from breaking and falling into the dirt.

To do this, in winter they shorten strong, long stems of the current year by one third of their length, and lateral growths of the main stems - by 2–3 buds (up to 15 cm from their base).

This annual pruning and removal of one or two old stems allows you to maintain for many years the abundant flowering and strong growth of these roses.

Plants of the third group of spray roses can be considered as a short variety of roses of the second group. These include most tea roses and a number of modern park roses, such as Fontaine. Of the old varieties, this group includes Zephyrin Drouin and Madame Isaac Pereir.

In the first year after planting, annual bushes of this group should be pruned just like roses belonging to the first group.

In the second and subsequent years, adult bushes of the third group differ from the second group of roses in a more or less remontant bloom in the summer and autumn of the shoots of the current year, as well as on the side branches of the first and second order, located on biennial and older stems. Many roses of the third group form long, flexible and powerful growths that have arisen at the base or higher on a highly developed stem. These new shoots, unlike the roses of the second group, often bloom profusely on the tops.

Roses of the third group usually all summer form new flowering side shoots of the first and second orders, which are densely intertwined like bird's nests. Faded flowers tear off and slightly thin out them during flowering. It contributes to constant flowering. More attention is paid to pruning weakened branched growths. In all other respects, winter pruning of these roses is similar to pruning of the second group of roses.

Pruning standard roses.

Hybrid tea and floribunda roses often have a high or medium stem and are therefore located above other roses in the garden, which makes them look very good. They are usually vaccinated with an oculir-Coy on the stem of a wrinkled rose or rosehip.

The initial and subsequent pruning in standard roses are the same as in the spray roses. Light pruning leaves a rather large crown on a high trunk that can be damaged by the wind, especially in open areas of the garden. Therefore, it is recommended to do a moderately strong pruning.

In hybrid tea roses, strong stems are shortened by 3-5 buds (up to 15 cm from their base). In the Floribunda group, annual growths are cut by 6–8 buds (up to 25 cm from the base), and biennial growths by 3–6 buds (up to 15 cm from the base)

Plakah1st high-stem form.

In order to get a standard rose of a weeping form, a tall rose is grafted onto a tall stem of a wrinkled rose or rosehip, then its long increments hang down.

With proper cultivation, such forms are most attractive for climbing roses of the first group. In August — September, decayed biennial branches are cut into a ring, leaving only strong shoots for flowering next year. If there are not enough of them, a few biennial correctly arranged stems are left, shortening their side shoots by 2-3 buds.

Climbing roses of the second group are not very suitable for this form and therefore are rarely found. Pruning them is to remove extra old growths and shorten the lateral branches after flowering by 2-3 buds (up to 15 cm from the base). Tie strong shoots as they appear.

Rejuvenation of roses.

Uncircled, neglected roses may still bloom for many years, but they usually have a poor appearance because of the large number of dead, thin, sometimes sick growths, which are not visible only during flowering. But even then, if you look closely, it is impossible not to notice that the flowers are small, often of irregular shape and less numerous in comparison with the flowers of roses of the same variety, which were cared for more carefully. Some roses, especially climbing, grow well without special care more than 20 years, but this is an exception; most roses need a pruning to grow well and bloom profusely.

What should be done if there is an overgrown and neglected rose in the garden? Roses are extremely tenacious and will not die, even if they are cut to the level of the soil. Such a strong pruning can rejuvenate a hopelessly neglected plant, but it cannot be recommended for all cases.

For many roses, you can find a less radical approach that will also give good results. Even very neglected roses usually have several rather powerful stems that must be left.

In the first year, in the winter, healthy stems will be released, cutting off dead, thin, matted and diseased growths on the ring and removing the root shoots that are almost always present on the grafted plant. Pruned on a ring about half of the main stems, retaining those of them that have young strong shoots. The remaining stems remove all weak growths, and strong side shoots shorten by 2-3 buds (up to 15 cm from the base). In the spring, well-rotted manure or compost is brought into the soil near the bush and, if possible, during the growing season, every three weeks, foliar dressing is regularly carried out. This stimulates the formation of strong replacement shoots.

In the second year, in winter, all remaining old stems are cut into rings, and side shoots with new growths are shortened by 2–3 buds (up to 15 cm from their base). Do necessary for this grade pruning. To support plant growth, fertilize the soil generously with manure. Rejuvenation can take two to three years.

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Park roses. Crop.

Park roses are not as widespread as hybrid tea or floribunda group roses, but their popularity is steadily increasing. Planted in groups, a separate bush or in borders, park roses look great in summer and autumn

Especially in those places where ordinary garden roses do not look at all. Park roses, as a rule, are recommended not to cut or restrict a small formation. Without pruning, they usually grow and bloom well for several years, but this practice, although attractive, does not always ensure optimal flowering of plants. For best results, park roses should be pruned annually, even if this pruning will be done in very small sizes. To simplify this process as much as possible, the park roses were divided into three groups. However, the boundaries between groups are not always clear and clear, which leads to some confusion of methods, and for individual roses, which cannot be definitely included in any of these groups, and modification of pruning methods.

Pruning roses is done according to the same principles as pruning other roses: stimulating the formation of strong growths in the lower part of the bush, including basal ones, and replacing older stems that are not as powerful and rarely blooming.
It is also important to keep in mind that plants of some varieties of roses form flowers both on the growths of the current year, and on the side branches of the first and second order, located on older stems; that some varieties bloom once a year (in June-July), others, remontant, until late autumn; that some varieties of the decorative element are brightly colored fruits and therefore they do not need to remove faded flowers.

Always remember the following key points.

1. When planting, do not prune, just remove thick and damaged roots and shorten undeveloped and damaged stems.

2. Properly position the stems to form a strong skeleton; remove after flowering thin and weak growth; trim as you see dead and sick growths.

4. In the winter, all strong gains pinch a few centimeters; this will stimulate the formation of flowering side shoots of the first and second order in the summer and will remove the source of infection, since thin and tender tops are often affected by powdery mildew.

In the first grouppark roses include roses of different types (except climbing), requiring minimal pruning, including:

prickly rose (Rosa spinosissima) and its hybrids,
wrinkled rose (R. rugosa) and its hybrids,
french rose (R. gallica),
musk rose hybrids (R. moschata).

Almost all of these roses grow in rather thick bush and bloom mainly on short side branches of the first and second order, located on biennial and older stems. These plants regularly produce powerful basal growths.

First and second years

In the first and second years after planting, pruning is practically reduced to the recommendations listed in the main points (1-4). Sometimes poorly located growth should be cut to the ring.

Third and subsequent years

In the third and subsequent years, one or two poorly flowering old stems can be cut off in winter in order to stimulate the formation of replacement root shoots and thus maintain a strong skeleton. For very old bushes, stronger pruning is sometimes needed: in the winter, trim very old and incorrectly positioned main stems to maintain the desired shape of the skeleton.

Second group Park roses include plants that bloom mainly on short side branches of the first and second order, located on the biennial and older stems. This group includes old traditional varieties of roses such as white (Rosa alba), table (R. centifolia), moss (R. centifolia var. Muscosa) roses, as well as most Damascus roses. This group includes a large number of modern park roses, blooming only once in the middle of summer.

First year

Annuals should be pruned, like the roses of the first group. Before planting, remove undeveloped and damaged branches, thick and damaged roots.

Second and subsequent years

Adult plants of the second group of park roses differ from the roses of the first group by regular formation of strong growths in the lower part of the bush, including basal shoots that grow 1.5-2.5 m in a year. In the second year, these long stems form a large number of lateral flowering Shoots that often weigh the stems to the ground with their weight, creating the danger of breaking them.
This nature of growth requires the use of pruning methods other than the first group in order to preserve the natural characteristics of the plant and to prevent the heavy flowering branches from breaking and falling into the dirt.

In addition to the general pruning principles already outlined earlier, in winter shorten strong, long stems of the current year by one third of their length, and lateral growths of the main stems by 2-3 buds (up to 15 cm from their base). But be careful, do not get too carried away with pruning, so as not to disturb the elegant arcuate shape of the stems and not reduce the potential for the formation of a large number of flowering branches.
This annual pruning and removal of one or two old stems allows you to maintain for many years the abundant flowering and strong growth of these roses.

Plants of the third group can be considered as a smaller variant of plants of the second group. These include most tea roses and a number of modern varieties of park roses like the Fontaine variety. Of the old traditional varieties, this group includes Zephyrin Drouin and Madame Isaac Pereir. It is also possible to include some strong-growing varieties of tea-hybrid and remontant roses, used as border plants.

First year

Annual plants of this group should be cut in the same way as roses belonging to the first group.

Second and subsequent years

Adult plants of the third group differ from the second group of roses in a more or less remontant bloom in the summer and autumn on the shoots of the current year, as well as on the side branches of the first and second order, located on biennial and older stems. Many roses of the third group form long, flexible and powerful growths that have arisen at the base or higher on a highly developed stem. These new shoots, unlike the roses of the second group, often bloom profusely on the tops.

In winter, pruning should be easy. Strong or moderately strong winter pruning of all these roses leads to the formation of powerful shoots, sometimes with rarely located flowers, and sometimes completely non-flowering. Flowering becomes late and inconstant.
Roses of the third group usually all summer form new flowering side shoots of the first and second orders, which are densely intertwined like bird's nests. Cut the faded flowers and lightly thin them during flowering. It contributes to constant flowering. Pay more attention to pruning weakened branched growths. In all other respects, winter pruning of these roses is similar to pruning of the second group of roses.

Constantly increasing due to their frost resistance. Planted alone or in groups, they look great both in summer and autumn. In general, park roses are not recommended to be cut, or to use only a small bush formation. Without pruning, they grow beautifully and bloom for several years, but gradually the bush grows old, the flowers begin to shrink. Therefore, park roses, like other roses, need pruning, even if small.

The purpose of pruning park roses: to stimulate the formation of new basal growths, replacing old, sick, non-flowering or rarely flowering shoots.

It is also important to know that in the park roses the flowers bloom both on last year’s and older stems, and on the growths of this year. Some varieties of park roses bloom once a year in June-July, others - repair-age - until late autumn. In some varieties of park roses, decorative fruits are brightly colored, and therefore they do not need to remove flowering inflorescences.

All park roses are divided into three groups of pruning. However, the boundaries of the groups are not clear, and sometimes there is a mixture of trimming methods.

But there is 4 basic rules for pruning park roseswhich need to be followed, regardless of the belonging of the park rose to the trimming group.

1. When planting park roses, no pruning is done; only thick or damaged roots and weak damaged shoots are removed.

2. In summer, during the growing season, correctly position the shoots. A rose should have a strong skeleton. All weak, sick, dead growths are removed.

3. Withered flowers should be regularly removed, except for varieties with attractive fruits. Such light pruning stimulates the formation of new flowering shoots.

4. In the fall, before hibernation, all strong gains should be shortened by 5-10 cm. This pinching also stimulates the formation of new lateral flowering shoots next year. At the same time, this source of infection removes the source of infection, because it is on thin and delicate tops that powdery mildew occurs.

The first conditional group pruning park roses

This group includes roses that require minimal pruning: wrinkled rose R. rugosa and its hybrids; French rose R. gallica; musk rose hybrids R. Moschata; prickly rose R. Spinosissima and its hybrids.

These roses grow in dense bush and bloom on short side shoots of the first and second order, located on the two-, three-year and older stems. These roses are usually powerful basal growths.

First year

After planting, pruning roses of this group comes down to the 4 basic rules listed above.

Second year

Fig.1. April Using a pruner, shorten all strong stems. All wrongly located shoots are cut.

Fig. 2. June - August. On the side shoots located on old stems flowers appear. Grow new basal growths.

Fig. 3. September Summer pruning is carried out. Thin, weak shoots are removed, dead branches are cut out.

Third and subsequent years

Fig. 4. March-April. If it is required after wintering, all strong shoots and lateral growths are shortened.

Fig. 5. July-August. On the side shoots of old stems flowers bloom. Formed new basal shoots of the current year.

Fig. 6. September. Summer pruning is carried out. Cut thin and weak growths, as well as all the extra shoots that prevent to maintain the correct form of the bush.

The second conditional group of park roses includes those roses that bloom on the side short branches of the first and second orders, located on the two-, three-year and older branches. This includes white Rose R. Alba, Moss Rose, Table Leaf R. Centifolia and Damascus roses. This group also includes the majority of modern park roses that bloom once in the middle of summer.

First year

Annual park roses of the second group should be cut in the same way as roses of the first group of pruning.

Second year

Fig. 7. March-April. Long root growths are cut by a third of the length, side shoots on faded stems are shortened by 2-3 buds. Do not forget to remove all incorrectly located, interfering stems.

Fig. 8. June-August. Flowers bloom on pruned side shoots located on old stems. Summer pruning is carried out. New root shoots grow.

Fig. 9. September-October. Too long branches need to be shortened to minimize the breakage of the branches by the wind. No other pruning required.

Third and subsequent years

Fig. 10. March-April. March, April. Long root growths are cut by a third of the length, side shoots on faded stems are shortened by 2-3 buds. Do not forget to remove all incorrectly located, interfering stems, as well as bad flowering shoots.

Fig. 11. June-August. June August. Flowers bloom on pruned side shoots located on old stems. Summer pruning is carried out. New root shoots grow.

Fig. 12. September-October. Too long branches need to be shortened to minimize the breakage of the branches by the wind. No other pruning required.

The third conditional group of park roses includes a short version of park roses of the second group. This group includes most modern tea roses, Moyesi roses, and roses resembling Fontaine, Zephyrin Drouin, Madame Isaac Pereirs. This includes some undersized varieties of remontant roses, which are used as border plants.

First year

Annual park roses of the second group should be cut in the same way as roses of the first group.

Second year

Park roses of the third group differ from the roses of the second group by repeated flowering in the summer on the side branches of the first and second order on biennial and older stems and in the fall on the tops of the shoots of the current year. Many roses from this group during the growing season form long and flexible growths from the base of the bush. These new shoots very often bloom on the tops.

Fig. 13. March-April. Long root growths are cut by a third of the length, side shoots on faded stems are shortened by 2-4 buds to 8-10 cm from the base. Do not forget to remove all incorrectly located, interfering, weak stems.

Fig. 14. June-July. Flowers bloom on the lateral growths of last year's stems. Summer pruning is carried out. Bottom shoots appear at the bottom of the bush.

Fig. 15. August-September. Blossom side shoots, located on the growth of the current year. On summer pruned growths, lateral branches of the second order are formed.

Fig. 16. October. Too long branches need to be shortened to minimize the breakage of the branches by the wind. No other pruning required.

Third and subsequent years

Fig. 17. March-April. Long root growths are cut by a third of the length, side shoots on faded stems are shortened by 2-4 buds to 8-10 cm from the base. Do not forget to remove all incorrectly located, interfering, weak stems.

Fig. 18. June-July. Flowers bloom on the lateral growths of last year's stems. Summer pruning is carried out. Bottom shoots appear at the bottom of the bush.

Aug. Sept. Blossom side shoots, located on the growth of the current year. On summer pruned growths, lateral branches of the second order are formed.

October. Too long branches should be shortened by a third of the length to minimize the breakage of the branches by the wind. No other pruning required.

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