Pruning grapes in the fall of a two-year bush. How to prune an old grape bush. Trimming for dummies: a step by step procedure

Proper pruning of grapes is a necessary step for the formation of a bush. With it, you will facilitate the care of the plant, increase the volume at harvest, because pruning leads to an increase in the size of the berries, and also accelerates the processes of ripening.

1 When do you need pruning?

Best after the summer season. This is due to the fact that this procedure will help better and better cover the grapes, protecting it from frost. In addition, the care after the correct cutting in the spring season becomes easier, and the berries that ripen by August-September, become larger, juicier and tastier. It is not necessary to carry out work in the spring for a very simple reason: the wounds on the vine shoots "heal" hard, and if you cut them at the very beginning of the movement of the juices, "tears" are formed. This leads to a loss of harvest, and in some cases - to the death of plants.

The only thing you can do is pruning young shrubs that have not entered fruiting. And then, the work can be carried out only in the case when the average daily temperature is established at the level above +5 ° C. In the summer, pinch and chase shoots, remove old branches. This work is aimed only at preventing diseases, improving the penetration of light to the clusters and the airing of the bush, creating the necessary conditions for its normal development, ripening berries. Observing all the rules and knowing what period is best to do work, eliminating the bush from diseased shoots, you will increase the flow of all nutrients to the clusters.

This will make them even bigger and tastier, and also ensure the ripening of those vines that were left for the next season.

2 Rules for pruning grapes in autumn - preparatory work before winter

Now you know what period is best to carry out the work, so it's time to get acquainted with how to do pruning grapes. The whole procedure should be divided into several stages, since this is the only way to make sure that next year you will leave for the emergence of bunches of vines that will have ripened by this time. At the first stage, after you have collected all the berries, you need to clear the bushes from bad shoots, links that have already passed fruiting, tops that serve as an obstacle to the normal development of the plants.

Pruning is better to start before the shelter of the vineyard and a week after the end of the leaf fall, for example, in October. Many nutrients by this time have already passed into the perennial part of the shrub and its roots. Even if some of the vines will suffer the first frost, there is nothing to worry about, because the cold hardens the bushes. But during the pruning, make sure that the temperature does not fall below -3 ° C, otherwise the shoots and branches will be brittle, they can be easily damaged. The process itself does not cause difficulties: every year you need to remove the old branches, forming a bush according to your chosen pruning scheme.

Do not forget to leave up to eight sleeves that grow from the ground at an angle - it is they who will produce the harvest next year. But working with a little harder, especially if you have never thought about pruning rods. True, the correct pruning of grapes in the fall will give excellent results even in the most difficult cases.

3 Why not leave everything as is, or special techniques for the development of grapes

This plant has a unique feature: the clusters and inflorescences will be only on the green shoots that appeared in the year before pruning. But at the same time they must grow from the buds on the last year's vine. In autumn, the shrub lays a certain number of buds (eyes), from which from April green shoots with clusters begin to germinate. During the warm season shoots can grow up to three meters, and on them, respectively, new buds appear.

However, the plant strength can only be enough for a few dozen fruitful shoots. If you do not cut the bush, it will lead to the fact that it will overgrow with long, thin and weak shoots, bearing fruit, and the harvest will eventually be very small. Your task is to leave the optimum number of buds in the vineyard., applying pruning, which will help to form a small bush with the required number of young shoots.

4 Literate technology trimming plants

To carry out all the work, you will need a grape file and a secateur, it is also important that the tools are qualitatively ground. Secateurs during cutting should be kept so that the knife is on the side of the part of the shoot, which we will leave, and the emphasis is placed on the part to be removed. This will provide an accurate and smooth cut.

When cutting the sleeves, slightly tilt the part to be removed with your left hand in the direction opposite to the shears - this will make the work much easier and easier. Many beginners make one common mistake - hold the tool with two hands. If there are difficulties with cutting thick boughs, then carry out the work in several stages. Perennial parts of grapes that are more than 3 cm thick are cut with a grape file. The resulting cut is smoothed with the help of pruning blades or garden knife.

5 Proper pruning of grapes - the rules and steps

First of all, you should make out the basic concepts and types of molding bushes. The main stem of the plant, connected to the roots, is called headquarters. Stems departing from it are sleeves from which vines with fruits depart.

Most often, staffs are left up to one meter long when no plants are planned to be sheltered for the winter. In the opposite case, it should be done even less - up to 20-40 cm. This will make it easier to hide the shoots and save on materials.
The sleeves should also be cut short, because the perennial vines are not fruitful. Thus, it is completely senseless to leave shoots that survived several winters — they do not bear fruit and simply take nutrients from shoots. You need to leave only those of them that will bear fruit next year. To understand what should be a bush after pruning, make a plan of its desired shape.
Next, go to the inspection of the plant - identify yourself which of the vines you need to remove and which ones to leave, also determine the level of trimming of the main sleeve. It must be removed almost completely, leaving him a few fruitful vines. No need to worry, because up to 20 buds can appear on it, and these are more than 20 new shoots already on next year. It is important that the vine was thick, strong and located near the trunk.
It remains to determine how many buds should be left on the shoot. You can cut in different places, because the views of gardeners differ on this account. Someone thinks that it is better to cut through one kidney, others say that you need to leave a few centimeters from it, and then cut it. Do as you see fit.
To understand how many holes to clean, you need to know the characteristics of certain grape varieties. So, there are those species whose first buds, located right at the base, never give fruit - in this case you need to leave at least 5 eyes. This will allow you to be sure that your grapes will produce healthy, juicy and tasty fruits for the next year.

The fruitfulness of the grapes depends on many factors. In order for the culture to enjoy not only a green look, but also a tasty harvest, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the shoots. A prerequisite is to conduct important procedures for the treatment of diseases, pests, as well as measures for pruning bushes at different stages of seasonal plant growth. The procedure is important, so it is important to know the features, how to correctly cut the grapes for the winter and what is its significance for the plant as a whole.

With proper formation of the bush increases the yield of grapes. On the shoots a lot of fruiting buds are formed, and the “empty” ones are cut off. Thus, the beneficial substances are not wasted on the development of excess leaves and shoots. Moreover, frost resistance improves. If you do not regularly pruning grapes for winter, this will adversely affect the resistance of the plant to cold weather and insect pests, and the berries on the clusters can become shallow, develop poorly and mature.

Trimming the shoots allows you to eliminate the excessive growth of the bushes, which simplifies seasonal courtship of the grapes. The build-up of perennial wood and fruit-bearing shoots can be adjusted to prevent overgrowth of the vineyard. The better the base of the bush, the stronger the vines develop. In the autumn, about 85% - 90% of the shoots of the current year and the tree trunk of the vine of the previous year are pruned.

Pruning in the winter is effective in that it affects the improvement of the taste properties of berries. The weight of the clusters increases, and accordingly, the size and fullness of the fruit with useful substances. Shaping of bushes and rejuvenation of grapes in general is regulated. In the conditions of the Ural winters, this procedure is extremely obligatory for grapes.

Pruning grapes: a bit of theory

To understand the basic principles of the procedure, you need to understand the structure of the vine and methods of pruning

The ground part of the grape bush has the following configuration:

Shtamb - part of the escape from the ground until the first branching.
Sleeves - parts of a plant from the first branching, perennial vines more than 35 cm.
Horns are the next parts of the shoot, up to 35 cm long.
Vine - the branch, bearing fruit in the current season.

By the number of eyes, escape can be of the following types:

Knot (Short length) - up to 4 eyes
Fruiting needle (Medium length) - 5-12 eyes
Fruiting vine (Long) - more than 12 eyes

In accordance with this, distinguish the main types of trimming:

Short pruning ("On the replacement knot"). All shoots are shortened, leaving up to 4 buds. It helps to produce rejuvenation of the bush. But if the replacement knot peephole closest to the vine looks inside the bush, as a rule, 3 more buds are left. The processes developing inside the bush are removed in the spring. It is better if replacement knots grow to the outside, this will contribute to the correct shaping of the bush. This type is suitable for varieties, fruiting from the lower corner eyes.

With mid pruning (“On the fruiting arrow”) no more than 8 small holes are left on the shoot. Contributes to the preservation and strengthening of frost-resistant and strong shoots. The total number of holes left is approximately 50.

Long type trimming - “on fruit shoots”. Function - yield improvement, depends on the particular variety. On the bush should be about 4-5 shoots, with 15 eyes on each of them. In total, no more than 60. Suitable in hot regions of Asia.

Mixed pruning "On the fruit link" - one of the most typical methods of cutting in middle lane Russia. Includes combined short and long trim. The result is a knot of substitution and a fruit branch (which will yield next season). This achieves several goals at once: the uniform development of the bush, its rejuvenation due to new shoots and improved yields.

How to cut grapes for the winter

Cut the grapes begin in the fall, before sheltering until the cold, because this will help the plant to overwinter more easily, increase its winter hardiness. To increase the volume of the crop, extra clusters should be removed in time.

In the spring, the second stage of the procedure is carried out as standard at air temperatures above 5 o C. It is allowed to prune the saplings planted in autumn. And in the summer, they carry out activities for “partial pruning”: pasynkovanie, chasing, pinching the tops and pruning sick branches. The function of these procedures is the rehabilitation of the hive and the prevention of diseases. Timely activities contribute to greater air and light transmission, which directly affects the yield and taste of the grapes. When carrying out pruning should take into account the age of the bush.

If you want the grapes to be covered with arbors and fences with greenery, you should not prune fruit-bearing bushes, you must choose a different plant variety, mainly for landscaping garden plot.

Trimming for dummies: a step by step procedure

To save the shoots of grapes in the fall, you need to follow the following rules:

Pruning grapes produced to shelter the plant for the winter. After harvesting. As a rule, the bushes form from two years of planting. Young, just planted bushes pruned only in the next season.

In the fall, the standard procedure is carried out in two stages:

In the first decade of September, after harvesting, shoots and tops are removed, this will help to form a beautiful and evenly developed shrub. Pruning young shoots already formed bushes. Forming a bush is made on the principle of preserving the main wood of the bush and the main fruitful shoots (shoulders, shtamb and sleeves).

To simplify the procedure, you can tighten several levels of wire: the first - at a distance of 50 cm from the ground, then at a distance of 30 cm from the first. Shoots grown above the second wire cut to 10% of the total length (pinch the tip with all the stepsons).

It is important to inspect the vine, assessing its condition. Remove the tops and shoots and leaves below the first wire. Must be cut and not ripened tops of the shoots.

The main pruning phase falls on a period two weeks after the leaf fall. During this period, the nutrients pass from shoots to the roots, the vine goes into a state of rest. It strengthens and supports the formed bush. Cut the weakest of the shoots. Removed 2 \\ 3 escape from the total length.

In mid-October, select some of the strongest shoots above the two levels of wire. Cut the lowest of the outer side of the sleeve. At the same time leave a few eyes (2 -5 eyes). Subsequently, this procedure will help to form a replacement knot.

However, different agronomists are advised not to leave replacement knots, as they may be the least effective. On the bush, leave one well-matured branch. In the next season, it is on her that the main share of the harvest will be concentrated.

Also, at this stage, the formation of the fruit arrow. Cut the shoot, located higher on the inner side of the sleeve, leaving from 6 to 12-16 eyes. Top shoots should be removed. The fruit arrow is important, as the fruit buds develop in early summer, which can complicate the ripening of berries, and inept cutting can only lead to additional damage.

It should be remembered that the plants are pruned at an air temperature of -3 o C. If the temperature during pruning does not correspond to this value, the condition of the shoots may deteriorate significantly. However, excessive pruning can lead to freezing.

Subsequent pruning is then carried out in the spring. Remove dried and weak shoots affected after hibernation. It is also necessary to analyze the load on the hive to eliminate the uneven formation of clusters. Therefore, it is recommended to remove some buds. In order not to damage the plant during the second pruning, it is better to use sharp shears. Always cut diagonally to accelerate the healing of sections of the plant.

Tips experienced agronomists!

When forming a bush, you can leave from 3 to 8 sleeves, they will give a stable annual large yield. The number of old woody branches is left to a minimum, since the leaves and buds do not develop on them. Usually the main perpendicular trunk has several main sleeves.
On a young shoot, 2-3 eyes are standard

Trimming: chasing and pasynkovanie

Procedure coinage Do not spend in dry seasons or if there is an excessive pain of shoots (powdery mildew, mildew, etc.). The grapes are pruned when the growth of the shoots stopped, and the internodes from below began to ripen. In case hurry with trimming tops. Stepchildren will begin to develop strongly, and the vines will no longer grow well. Accordingly, the total yield falls. Late embossing will also not be effective.

Early minting can be done to allow stepchildren to grow quickly. Especially after winter freezing. This will help align the formation of the bush.

Masking can be partial or complete. The main task is to remove lateral shoots and leaves, which contributes to the redirection of nutrients to the clusters and fruits. Timely removal of stepsons will facilitate the care of the bushes and pest and disease control. Standardly, they are plucked two or three times per season. Breaking them down is completely undesirable, as this will damage living kidneys.

Thus, pruning grapes is a necessary procedure, as it affects the various life processes of the plant. This contributes to the healing and even development of the bush as a whole, and also minimizes the likelihood of freezing and various diseases. Moreover, cutting has the most positive effect on the taste, juiciness, sweetness and usefulness of the berries. With timely and proper conduct of the event, the culture will delight you with a rich harvest.

For proper pruning, it is necessary to determine how to form a grape bush.

The first type of pruning is vertical, one-sided or double-sided, short-arm or long-sleeve.
The number of sleeves depends on the design of the trellis, its height.

The second type of pruning is shtambovy: high or near-surface forms with a cordon (a stem is a trunk like that of a tree).
Such a formation resembles a plantation of low trees. (Fig.5) standard form of grapes
The difference between a trunk and a sleeve or cordon can be called formal. And shtamb, and sleeve, and cordon all this is a perennial vine.

Some distinguishing features: the cordon is always located on the trunk, the sleeves usually grow out of the ground.
The cordon is tilted parallel to the ground, no matter how high it is from the ground, the sleeves are angled to the ground.
Stamb perpendicular to the ground like a fruit trees.
The fruit link on the sleeve is located at the end; on the cordon, the fruit links occupy all its space.
Sometimes a stem with multi-tiered sleeves and links is called a vertical cordon, and a cordon on a trunk can be called a sleeve.

Such formal subtleties should not interfere with the main difference of the perennial vine from the annual, which bears the harvest.
When we form a young sapling and do the annual pruning, then there are no problems.
Decided on the type of formation of the bush and from the very beginning we form as conceived.
Depending on the development of the plant, its growth power for 2-3 years after planting, it is supplemented with 1-2 new green shoots from the head of the bush for the formation of new arms. The number of sleeves can be from 3 to 8, depending on the power of the bush and the variety of the trellis.
In subsequent years, these shoots will also give the first harvest.

But if a perennial bush is running and never cut off by the rules, then it will have to work.
All season, starting in spring, we remove perennial wood (sleeves, stumps) from any green shoots, if they appear.
This is done every season, throughout the life of the bush.

If the bush is a few perennial branches,
then you need to form the so-called sleeves with fruit links on each of them.

In early September (if you did not perform any green operations in summer), remove or break out on each multi-year sprout (future sleeve) all unnecessary green side shoots that grew to the first wire (Fig. 1A) stretched 50-60 cm from the ground (the distance from the first wire to the second is 30 cm, all subsequent wires are stretched at a distance of 40 cm from each other).
For the green shoots of the sleeves grown above the first wire, the tip should be cut off (i.e., minted) by removing 10-15% of the entire length of each green shoot (Fig. 1B). And all side shoots (pasanka) should be cut off, leaving 2-3 leaves on each (Fig. 1B). More in September, do nothing!

In October, after leaf fall, a fruit link should be formed, consisting of a replacement knot and a fruit arrow.
Begin to inspect each sleeve of the grape bush from the bottom up.
At the height of the first or second wire of the trellis, choose two well-developed tails on it: the lower one, which should be from the outside of the trellis which grows under the slope of the sleeve at the lower wire, should be cut off, leaving 2 peepholes on the base (preferably 3 in case of frost or flushing out) - this will be a substitute bit). The first strong escape following him should ideally be located on the opposite (substitution bitch) side, should be cut off, leaving more eyes on it than on the substitution bitch - this will be a good arrow

How many holes should be left on the fruit arrow

On the food arrow, a different number of eyes is left, depending on the growth of the bush and the thickness of the shoot.
The diameter of the shoot will help you determine how many holes you should leave:
with a diameter of 5 mm - leave 5 eyes; with 6 mm - 5-6 eyes; with 7 mm - 7-8 eyes; at 8 mm - 8-9 eyes; with 9 mm - 9-11 eyes; with 10 mm - 11-13 eyes; with 11 mm - 12-14 eyes; at 12 mm - 13-15 eyes (the first 2-3 eyes from the base of the fruit arrow can be fruitless, as often happens).

If a variety produces clusters with an average weight of more than 500 grams (according to the varietal characteristics), then the minimum number of the above-mentioned list should be left, and if less than 500 grams, then by the maximum number of holes.
For example: if the shoot edge is 9 mm., And the bunch is less than 500 grams, 9 holes are left.

After pruning (before the onset of frost -7 degrees C), the plant should be removed from the trellis, secured on the ground.
You can cover it with a sheet, or a tarpaulin, or a film, as well as prikopat earth.
If there are few grapes, only a few bushes, you can gather foliage and cover it with it, or with fir branches, and cover with boards to prevent it from flying away from the wind.
After pruning grapes in the fall, it takes up little space and is easy to lay on the ground, but do not twist the unnaturally perennial vine.

We put the vine in the direction of growth, and not vice versa.
The seedling can be covered for the winter with an earthen rampart (fill it up completely with earth).
Do not forget to put some identification mark (peg) where the seedling is buried, in order not to damage it in the spring when digging.
All saplings of the 1st and 2nd year of planting even uncovered varieties need shelter.
pruning grapes. The spring of next year, the perennial bush must be freed from the shelter and tie up its sleeves and fruit hands to the trellis (Fig. 3).

The timing of the opening of the bushes can vary depending on the materials covering.
For example, grapes should be freed from under the ground after the threat of spring May frosts, while other shelters require earlier release of grapes in order to prevent kidney stinging. If the threat of return frost appears, it is necessary to cover something for this time.
In the spring, on the green shoots that appear on the fruit arrow, leave one inflorescence (future clusters), the rest of the shoots (except two, usually infertile at the base of the fruit arrow) break down before flowering.

In some varieties, you can leave 2 inflorescences, as they are powerful and able to feed two clusters on one shoot.
In late spring - in early summer, we tied up green shoots with inflorescences to the trellis.
If you find that 2-3 shoots began to grow from the eyes located on the food arrow (the so-called doubles-tees), then you need to leave only one powerful escape with an inflorescence, and break the rest.

On the replacement knot, we leave 2 of the strongest correctly located fleets, the third escape and all the twin-tees are deleted.
In the summer, from the run-off of this replacement bitch, you will form a new fruit link, destined for the next year.
The fruit-bearing arrow (fig.4A) every year after leaf fall should be cut along with the vine, leaving a stump from the replacement bitch (fig.4B) 1 cm high.

Next year everything will be the same again.
So every fall we will cut our grapes and get a big harvest next year.

How to cut grapes in the fall. Video

At the mention of grapes, amber brushes with stunning taste, aromatic wines sparkling in the rays of light, and only for winegrowers, this word is strongly associated with hard work appear in the memory of sun-drenched grapes. Having dared to devote one day to growing grapes, one must be aware that from now on life will no longer be the same.

Work on the care of grapes absorbs a person completely, without leaving him even in thoughts during short respites.

A culture that serves as a raw material for the production of elite wines requires tremendous attention and complete commitment. Spring, summer, autumn and to some extent winter are periods of intense work. grape care vines. Not everyone knows that this culture belongs to the species of lianovs. And they have one main feature - it is unstoppable growth during the growing season.

In the south of France, peculiar growth records of the vine were recorded. During the season, pasture of a branch of grapes was 5,000 meters. Well this is what kind of natural pumps you need to use to pump the juice over such a distance!

How to cut grapes in the fall and when

During the season, only one bush produces such a mass of branches that in the fall, even with regular summer cleaning of the bush, an entire mountain of material accumulates under sanitary pruning. For a beginner, a logical question arises: what to do with all this and how to cut it? Throw for the winter for subsequent trimming spring or do it in the fall?

The answer to the question is very simple. If climatic conditions imply compulsory shelter for grapes for the winter, pruning is necessary in the fall. After all, it is physically impossible to pack everything that has swept over the season. But if the climate is temperate, with quite warm winters and no shelter is required, then such a significant and important amount of work can be transferred to spring. Moreover, after exposure to cold weather, it will be possible in the spring really appreciate the condition of the vines after wintering.

What makes grapes pruning

We list what grape pruning gives:

Allows to reject the sick, damaged and weak shoots.
A harmonious bush will be formed according to all existing rules.
Improve the taste of grapes.
Terms of ripening of fruits will be reduced.
The size of the berries and the weight of the grapes will increase.
Yield will increase.

Virtually pruning in one form or another occurs regardless of the season. In the spring, according to the results of wintering, in the summer, constant pinching, removal of excess shoots, stepchildren, in the fall in preparation for winter. If this is not done regularly, the growing area will turn into impenetrable jungle with small, defective clusters that have lost their original taste.

Trim rules

Climatic conditions in our country are quite diverse. But most of the territory has a cold climate with frosty winters, which suggests shelter of vines. And accordingly, the product of the autumn pruning of grapes. Let us dwell on the rules for carrying out this process, especially since in its content and methods, it is no different from the spring pruning.

In order not to burden newcomers in viticulture at once with a large amount of work, consider the autumn pruning in two stages. On the ground after harvesting, we will inspect the condition of the vines. Sick and weak shoots must be cut.

To the moment ripening grapes, the bush of the plant is already fully formed and the further growth of the vines is practically no longer needed, so you need to do pinching the shoots, excluding their further lengthening.

The second stage begins three weeks after the foliage falls, at a temperature not lower than three degrees of frost. Having prepared the tool for a hacksaw, pruner, pruner, and having made its disinfection without fail, it is necessary to proceed to the process itself. I would like to emphasize the issue of antiseptic processing tool. This is not a joke, because modern cultivated grapes are subject to many specific diseases. Ignoring this and starting pruning a healthy shrub, beginners in the spring may be surprised to face its infection and the development of the disease.

In the practice of viticulture There are certain rules for pruning, which are outlined below:

There are features in the length of the trim. It is divided into

short with 2–4 buds
medium with 10–15 buds
longer than 10-15 buds

The last two are performed for fruit-bearing vines, and the knot of substitution is cut short.

Young grapes It is considered if its age does not exceed three years. Features of trimming bushes each year have their own subtleties, as they are a determining factor in ensuring the structure of a fruitful plant. For the first year, a simple scheme is used, representing a strong truncation of the vine. Leave from two to four buds, which will be the basis for the development of fruitful arms for the next year.

For a two-year vine apply different options for pruning. Repeat the same as for the annual, giving up the harvest for one year, but in exchange for a stronger bush. Or create a replacement knot by trimming one of the shoots into two peepholes, leaving up to 10 buds on the second.

In a three-year bush, the replacement knot is performed at a level below the fruit-bearing branch with pruning by 2–3 buds, providing the length of the main shoot within 5–10 buds.

As a result of the application of the specified pruning scheme, it is possible to form from four to six fructifying arms, allowing to give a full harvest for 4 years.

For novice winegrowers, of course, it is tiring to delve into such subtleties, because you want to see the results of work faster. But without mastering the correct pruning it is impossible to achieve satisfactory results. The benefit in the modern high-tech world, you can study the process of pruning without leaving your home, through watching videos on numerous forums devoted to the issues under consideration.

Work with the bushes of old grapes

Beginner winegrowerbesides planting and caring for new bushes, no doubt, will face grapes, which bear fruit more than one year. And if he was the appropriate care, then it will be no more difficult to cut it in the autumn than the formation of young bushes.

At the same time, 2–3 weeks after the leaves are dropped, it is necessary to proceed to the autumn pruning of old grapes. Assessing his condition, choose branches for pruning. The vine that has borne fruit this year is removed, and a knot of substitution is created on the lowest branch of the sleeve. A fruitful arrow is shortened to 5–12 eyes.

Such an operation is done on each sleeve. Wen, reaching a thickness of 10-12 mm removed, eliminating the expenditure of the forces of the bush on their useless existence.

The situation with grapes is more complicated when a man’s hand has not touched him for several years. Beginner fit and get confused from the abundance and interweaving of branches. Here you can apply a different scheme of work. To evaluate and direct the development of the bush in the right direction, you need to use the following method.

In the spring, two restrictive indicator cords are pulled onto the trellis. One at a height of 50 cm from the ground, the second is not higher than 30 cm. During the summer, it is necessary to regularly cut the bush from excess foliage and shoots. With the onset of autumn, everything that has grown above the upper cord is destroyed. Vines exceeding the height of the lower indicator should be cut at 10% length. After the leaves are dropped, shoots are selected that have reached the height of the second cord. The lower process serves as the basis for the knot replacement. And the fruitful arrow for the next year is formed from the top.

When the grapes are cut in the fall and fruitful arrows are formed, you need not to forget about the fruit load on it. For each grade has its own recommendations. If increased load is permissible for Isabella, some table varieties Laura, Kesha, etc. due to large grapes, require pinching restrictions.

Trimming methods

pruning by Guyot
fan
arched or arbor

Guyo pruning is applicable to unopened grapes. Used one-year and two-year scheme without changes. And in the third year, the fruitful arrow is placed on the trellis horizontally on the ground. Subsequent manipulations will be based on it. A possible symmetrical arrangement of the second sleeve, directed in the opposite direction.

Fan pruning is essentially the same as the previous one. But the fruit shooter takes a few pieces. They can be located both in different directions and unilaterally. After the first year, 2–3 buds are left; in the second year, 2 ocelli each, and in the third year, fruitful arrows and replacement knots are formed. The first is placed on the trellis in the form of a fan.

Arched or bowline trim it is applied for decoration design territory of the site. Pruning the first year is standard, and in the second year the vines decorate the desired design. There are no special requirements for the process. Everything is given at the mercy of the artist's imagination.

Summing up, it should be noted that mastering this process is no big deal. It is only important to understand the goals and principles of the methods used. But if there are still doubts about the correctness of their own actions, it is not a shame to turn to experienced comrades who have experience in this direction. You need to learn always and everywhere on the forums of wine-growers, when watching videos from the YouTube channel on thematic channels. It remains only to summarize the experience of others and apply in practice.

A rare summer resident does not dream of collecting many grapes from his plot. To increase crop yields, go for various tricks. For example, in order to get good fruits, autumn grapes are pruned. Much depends on the correctness of the procedure: the ability to resist frost, the crop, the time it ripens.

The main task of pruning is related to the concept of polarity. This is such a feature of culture in which the appearance and development of young shoots is inhibited, and the plant transfers all its forces to the growth of last year’s branches. As a result, the bush sleeves become longer, and the bush itself is taller and longer. This leads to the fact that the plant loses the substances it needs, which in turn adversely affects the quality of the crop. Proper pruning of the vine will help solve this problem and prevent this phenomenon.

In addition, the procedure is carried out to solve a number of tasks:

increased frost resistance;
crop quality improvement;
the formation of the crown of the bush;
removal of diseased and old parts;
optimization of the ratio between the vegetative and fruiting, aboveground and underground parts of the culture;
facilitation of the warming procedure with full shelter;
regulation of the load on the branches of the future harvest;
speeding up the process of bud break in spring.

Why do grapes are pruned in autumn

You can cut the grapes in autumn or spring. It is better to do this in the autumn, although it is allowed to cut the vines in spring in young bushes up to three years old. As practice shows, the beginning of sap flow is an undesirable period for the procedure, because:

Some buds will not bloom due to leaking.
Shoots after the "surgical" intervention may die.

As a result, poor grape growth and development arrest. That is why autumn is the ideal time to remove extra branches from grapes.

Basic rules for pruning grapes in autumn

The process itself is not so complicated. The main thing is to arm yourself with knowledge, because an error can lead to the death of a plant. Pruning grapes in the autumn is carried out in stages. And here it is important to choose the right time and choose high-quality tools.

Pruning time

The preparatory stage is carried out after harvest, when the leaves turn yellow. Re-pruning is carried out after leaf fall, indicating the transition of the bush in a state of rest. In this case, the harm done by the intervention will be minimal. Everybody chooses the terms independently: at the end of October or with the beginning of the first frosts. But it is important to know:

low temperatures increase the fragility of the twigs: at -5 ° C, they easily break during any careless movement;
cut off the extra shoots before the grapes shelter: negative temperatures will not allow you to safely mount the upper plastic layer of the shelter - it will break.

If you remove the extra branches before frost, then you should carefully examine the bushes after them and remove the affected shoots that can not survive the winter.

Instruments

Secateurs or scissors used for cutting branches should be of high quality and well sharpened. After all, the shortening of the shoot must be made very quickly. At the same time, for the rest, “shaggy” and “snacks” should not be observed, as torn sections reduce the intensity of sap flow.

The cut should be smooth, so that the twig does not exfoliate and heal faster. To do this, the tool must be positioned correctly: the tip should be located on the side of the part to be left, and the pruner stop should be on the part to be removed. It is necessary to hold with one hand, with the other one bend back the cut off part to the side opposite to the tip.

If the branches are thick (more than 3 cm in diameter), then it is better to cut them off with a blade with small teeth.

The first stage is preparatory

After harvesting and waiting for the moment when the leaves turn yellow, proceed to the first pruning:

remove insufficiently developed shoots that are not able to survive the frost safely with a sharp shears or scissors;
pests affected areas are cut out if they cannot be cured, otherwise the whole plant will "get sick";

When pests are detected, the lesion and surrounding areas are treated for preventive purposes.

The second stage - the main

It is carried out differently depending on the age of the vine and the type of pruning.

Crop trimming

Pruned young grapes in the fall with the further formation of the bush. Be sure to leave a strong branch - the future sleeve, if the form will be multi-sleeve, or the basis on which other sleeves will be formed. How to determine which escape will fit:

it should be at a distance of 20 ± 5 cm from the ground so that it can be started up for tying a trellis wire on the first row;
diameter of the vine - 12-15 mm.

All lateral branches are pruned, leaving 1-2 peepholes. On the last branch, up to 6 buds are left. Thus, the first sleeve is formed with several shoots that will appear from the left buds in the spring.

A year later, choose the shoot for the formation of the second branch, where they leave 2 branches with 4 or 8 buds.

In the third season, up to a dozen young shoots are left for the purpose of growing the crop on two sleeves. Extra and weak parts are removed. This pruning allows the branches to grow high enough and not suffer from the severity of the fruit.

Pruning old grape bushes

At the preparatory stage of autumn pruning, first the bush is examined, its condition is assessed. Then it is clarified: cut off the shoots that gave the crop, as well as the sick and not mature. With a small number of branches cut out stepchildren that have emerged from the leaf sinuses, and reduce all the young branches by a tenth. There should be only a healthy and strong shoots.

The main stage of the autumn grape pruning is as follows:

search for a replacement for old sleeves: pick up several thick and healthy branches that reach the second row of wire;
“knot of substitution” formation: the lowest strong escape in the outer part of the sleeve is shortened, leaving 3 buds;
the formation of the "fruit arrow": remove branches along the entire length of the sleeve, leaving up to 12 buds on each healthy and strong escape.

You should know that the fruiting vine is always left at the end of the sleeve, and the knot of substitution must be near the rhizome. If the culture is properly fed and used drip irrigationthen you can make the "fruit arrow" longer. Otherwise, the eyes leave less.

Types of grape pruning

Pruning grapes in the fall will be easy for beginners if they determine the purpose for which they will do it. Depending on the purpose, select the type of trim.

Formative

Bushes are formed from the 2nd to the 4th years. When creating the crown, it is taken into account that the individual branches, and then the shoots, should develop normally and not interfere with the rest. There are 2 methods of forming trim: headquarters and bezshtambovaya.

Bestambe

The purpose of such trimming - the formation of the required number of sleeves. Growth and fruiting culture is stimulated by cutting the vine. The length of the sleeves and their number is also regulated. Left vine can be short (4 buds), medium (up to 8 buds) and long (more than 9).

At the age of 3-4 years, a skeleton is formed in the plant in order to optimize the penetration of light and air to all parts of the plant. This is done in order to facilitate subsequent work with the bush.

Further care is to maintain the formed crown by trimming and tying up the branches. In autumn, the grapes are cut, in need of complete shelter.

Standard

This method is used for the formation of ukryvnyh grape varieties. The main condition for the formation of bole is an excellent cutting. For the formation of a trunk, developed seedlings are selected, which are planted in moist and fertilized soil.

The height of the trunk depends on the level of soil heating: the better it warms up, the higher the stem can be formed. If the shelter is intended for the winter, the shtam is made up to a height of 35 cm, otherwise it can even be 2 times higher. In fertile soils, multi-branch bushes can be formed; in depleted soil it is better to make them small in size.

Proper pruning of grapes in autumn is as follows:

1. In the first autumn on the bushes leave 3 good eye. All other shoots cut out. The most important thing is to grow a rhizome and 2 strong escapes: the main one, on which the stem will be formed, and the reserve one, which will enhance root system, as well as to secure in case the main shoot dies.

2. Next to the bush set support (about 1.5 m) for tying up future branches.

3. The following year, stepchildren that appeared in the summer are removed on the main runaway.

4. Install a trellis with a wire stretched in 2 rows: a cordon will be attached to the first, and a sprout on the second.

5. The main shoot is shortened to the length of the trunk.

6. Pasynki and additional escape are removed.

7. On the trunk leave 2 upper buds, from which shoots will appear - cordon shoulders. The remaining branches are cut.

8. In the third year, the vine is grown to half the distance between the bushes. The grown trunk is cut to any length. They remove all the mass grown on the bush except for the 2 upper shoots. They are attached to the first row of wire.

With good development of plants stepchild grow strong. From them and form fruiting links. With a weak development of stepsons, this is done from the main branches. The formation of fruit-bearing shoots can be accelerated by pinching near the third node.

Sleeves at the age of four years cut from above, leaving good shoots at a distance of 20 cm. Five-year branches cut up to 2-3 buds to form new fruiting links. For the links to bear fruit for a long time, they need to be properly laid. Then it will only support.

Terms of pruning in this case are as follows:

the first week of autumn - the removal of stepsons and the young branches of the old sleeves located below the first row of the wire, cutting out a tenth of the branches growing above the second row;
mid-autumn - the choice of two strong shoots growing between the wire rows, cutting the bottom to 3-4 buds - forming a replacement knot, cutting the top to 5-12 eyes - forming a fruit-bearing branch.

The result should be a vertically growing shrub with sleeves that have buds - the future fruiting links.

Fruiting

Dense foliage does not normally develop flower buds, increases the risk of disease causing by pathogens, which contributes to the unripe vine. Permanent pruning of more than half of the shoots prevents this. That is why it is important to cut in autumn to increase fruiting:

weak sleeves, on which there is no strong shoot, matured for at least 7 buds;
sleeves overgrown with small twigs;
all that is above the replacement shoots when creating a fruit link.

This pruning is done after 5 years of plant life each year before the onset of frost.

Rejuvenating

It is carried out in two ways: by updating the sleeves (described in more detail above) and by complete rejuvenation. The second method is as follows:

digging out a trunk at a depth of about 1.5 dm;
notching it in several places below 1 dm;
cutting down the plant to a depth of 1 dm;
processing slice clay-dung mixture;
sprinkling hemp loose soil to get a mound, watering.

By next spring, the excess soil is removed, and in a short time you will notice young growth, which will need to be taken care of.

Pruning grapes in autumn (video)

Watch a video on pruning grapes in the fall. Beginner gardeners explain the pruning process in detail and in an accessible manner.