Fertilizer with humus. Humus or manure as a fertilizer is better. Pros and cons of humus

How to build levels of humic acid

Due to chelation, humic substances increase the availability of these cations to plants. Compost and other sources of decomposing organic matter are not an effective way to create soil humus levels. Humus is a product of soil chemistry and depends on the source of its precursor chemicals: amino acids.

Amino acids are the building blocks of protein. They are associated with any grass in a natural, undisturbed place. The birds of the highlands of the Midwest illustrate this process of soil formation better than any ecotone on earth, because grasses use the Glomus-Mycorrhiza relationship. That is why there is so much humus-rich topsoil in the High Grass Prairies. Glomus forms a soil protein called glomalin, a substance rich in amino acids.

In combination with humus, they create a huge carbon sequestering and banking factor. Scientists can measure the percentage of calories in compost that comes from proteins, carbohydrates, and fats. This allows them to measure the lack of humus-forming potential of the compost. Even in high-quality compost, the percentage of calories coming from amino acids is less than 5 percent. Since it is difficult to rely on the ideal ratio of amino acids in the compost due to differences in quality control of manufacturing and the consistency of the ingredients, we cannot predict a 100% effective conversion of all these amino acids into humic substances.

Therefore, compost or other soil corrections to organic matter are not a reliable way to increase soil humic substances. Attempting to add a sufficient amount of humic acid through the use of compost will require such a huge amount that it can lead to overdose of the site with nutrients. In fact, the better the quality of the compost, the more concentrated the nutrients, and the less you should use. And this suggests that no other fertilizer is used at the same time.

Benefits of high levels of humic acid

The addition of humus is necessary if you want humus. You can measure the amount of humic acid in a compost product in a qualified laboratory. Good quality compost will measure 5 to 8 percent humic acid. This aggregation made the clay more porous, soft and aerobic, with better drainage, which led to deeper root growth of all plants. Also on the site are several types of red rocks, maples, dogwood and giant bamboo.

None of these plants should grow on soils with the conditions with which we started, but with the power of humic acids we have rehabilitated the soil to a productive and healthy level. Finally, Humic Acids: The Wonderful Products of Soil Chemistry states: Humic acids are wonderful brown and black soil chemistry products that are necessary for healthy and productive soils. They are functionalized molecules that can act as photosensitizers, retain water, bind to clays, act as plant growth stimulants and purify toxic pollutants.

No synthetic material can combine the physical and chemical universality of humic acids. Enter your email address below. Compaction: Good soil is loose and crumbly, because it has a lot of air spaces. Plant roots are able to penetrate deep into the soil to ensure enhanced drought resistance and stability. Air is also needed for a microfluid that lives on organic matter and processes its nutrients to create fertility. Usually, the soil in the home landscape is compacted so as to reduce compaction, regularly add humus, spreading mulch or organic material on bare soil in beds and under trees and shrubs. Dig compost, peat, etc. in garden beds when landing for improvement of aeration. Sandy soil: sandy soil has large particles with large air spaces between them. In addition, water-soluble nutrients leach quickly before plants can use them. Humus, incorporated into the sandy soil, acts like a sponge, absorbing and retaining moisture and nutrients dissolving in it. Clay soil: clay soils are so thick that between them are small particles with a corresponding small air space. They, as a rule, stick together and force water to fill the air spaces. They coalesce into larger clumps, creating large spaces that drain more easily and hold air to improve the texture of the soil. Reduced acidity prevents the absorption of iron, boron, copper and other elements necessary for plant health. Excessive acidity interferes with the absorption of plants by other nutrients. Since humus buffers the soil against changes in its pH, adding a large amount of organic matter to the soil will help maintain the desired pH levels. Insect pests, pathogenic microorganisms in the soil: soil rich in humus is alive. It supports active microorganisms for processing nutrients and nourishes useful macro-organisms, such as ants and terrestrial spiders, that prey on the larvae and eggs found in the soil. Humus creates a soil environment that supports beneficial nematodes, as well as bacteria such as the milky spore, which homeowners inject into lawns to fight white larvae. Many other resident microbes attack and control pathogens that hide in the soil. Top and mulch lawns and gardens with organic material, such as shredded leaves, compost, or shredded bark products, prevent soil pest problems. Barren soil: the soil is sterile over time, as its humus content decreases in hot weather, removal of topsoil or intensive cultivation without replacing organic matter. In their absence, the production of nutrients in the soil is greatly reduced and becomes sterile. While fertilizer provides nutrients to plants, it does not solve the problem of soil fertility. Top lawns and perennial humus layers and their inclusion in cultivated soil each year provide a home for these organisms so that they can ensure soil fertility.

• Therefore, it drains so quickly that it dries quickly.
• At every opportunity replenish the humus content of the sandy soil.
• Since the moisture is not exhausted from this soil well, the plant roots rot.
• Adding humus to clay soils prevents adhesion of small particles.
• The number and activity of microorganisms in the soil are depleted.
• The long-term solution to the problem of preserving microfluid in the soil.

Humus is rich in nutrients and minerals of plants, as well as microorganisms necessary for strong healthy growth of plants. For use in composting humus soil is often created in “micro” batches and added to other soils to increase their fertility. No matter what type of soil you have, adding humus can make it more fertile.

When you apply humus, turn it over or mix it with existing soil - do not let it settle and soak. You can add more as you wish without causing any harm, but using less of the suggested amount can lead to reduced plant viability.

Before adding humus to the soil, turn or loosen your garden plots. This will destroy large aggregations and encourage aeration. Mix the soil to a depth of 8 to 12 inches. You can use a tiller instead of forks, although farmers can damage the critical layer of the upper soil.

Step 3: Mix the humus with the soil

If the humus is pre-mixed with clay nutrients, it is ready to be applied to the soil. Use a flat blade shovel to evenly distribute humus. Work only in small stains to prevent the loss of vital nutrients from wind, sun or sudden rain.

Step 4: Humus and root beds

After applying humus, mix the soil again. For more fertility and a healthier soil, apply humus twice for at least 24 hours. Humus is the best soil for potted plants and rooting beds. Fill the bottom of the bed with old leaves and the top with humus. Add 2 to 4 inches of sand on top of the humus to retain moisture. This set is ideal for seed beginners or to stimulate root growth in cuttings.

Humus is light enough to allow the roots to grow without interference, and a layer of sand prevents the loss of power from the sun, wind and rain. The density of humus soil makes transplant safer for plants, reducing damage to the roots. For badly damaged soil, you may need to add humus several times. Before getting stuck in the routine, check the soil for acidity, which should be between 2, and if the soil has high acidity, add gypsum or lime in small quantities, and then apply more humus.