The apple tree did not bloom in spring. Let's help the apple tree in the spring

Luke "®

It is early to draw conclusions before August; it can sprout.

Yulishna

and what can you do here. earlier it was necessary to think, we have preserved the apple trees, but the whole cherry is frozen - nothing can be done

Alexandra

Do not worry so!
  Here in our country trees burned down.
  Together with the house. This is a shame ...

The Scarlet Flower

While they do not touch, they can give shoots from the root. Several years ago, too, we froze out in our gorge; shoots went down from below; we left only one shoot, and now huge apple trees have grown from them and are already bearing fruit.

Lemonade Who

maybe help .. we once saved the apple tree ... drive a nail of the appropriate size (at least one third of the diameter of the trunk) into the trunk ... they say from the shock the tree wakes up ...

SERGEI

Madame Pompadour about the new shoots correctly says, but do not exclude the possibility that the shoots will go wild, just immediately after the emergence of the shoots take a closer look with the grafting of the shoot or not.

Dmitry Pushkarev

About my grandmother drove nails into a tree And shed trees with boiling water Dry in the late spring I don't know how almost all the trees left in the garden the following year And in the year of the experiment some left and even bloomed only later Flowers flowed

Hope P

There is an inoculation on the tree, when you planted something with its earth you did not fall asleep. But if the tree goes away and the shoots will go
  above vaccinations, everything is fine. Wait, maybe during the summer the tree is made up.
  But if the shoots go from the root, and the graft remains above the shoots, then the apple tree will grow.
  I cleaned my apple trees = no sense ...

The apple tree has frozen, but many stepchildren have grown around the trunk. Will there be any good with them?

Avyzapisalis ....

Dig the ground near the trunk. If the sprouts go above the grafting site, then the same apple tree will be restored, and if lower, then the stock that is not usually cultivated. But since, in the ground, there is already an extensive root system, leave a couple of strong shoots and in August (or next year in spring) plant the variety you need.

***** *******

KungurA

It is doubtful. After all, the sapling of the cultivated apple is grown by grafting wild on the shoots.
  At least all the seedlings that I bought in the nursery were like that.
  Maybe all of these sides in general are children of the uncultured wild root ...

Hedgehog

If there is a sprout from the stump itself. and not from the root, leave it to grow the same apple tree, if you leave a sprig from the root, most likely grows wild and it will have to be planted in a new one.

Frozen Apple Tree

Elena

There is. Wait until the next spring

Alexander Rozhko

it is useless, there is no chance, you can send panahida

Svetik

I also had another young apple frozen this year: - (It was already this way with one. As a result, all died, and young branches went above the grafting. I hardly wait for them. I think it's a pity, but I’ll have to dig and another .... And my cherries were freezing too, but they were no longer recovering. Sad but true. The winter was frosty. Be brave. Plant a new one in the fall.

Lelka

Are you still hoping for something, Gennady? !
  Chances you --nol !!!

Lyudmila

I also just let the leaves and froze, stands in one place, I was hoping for the best,

someone from the crowd

Plant some new ones

Frozen Apple Tree

Filipych

If you give a kidney, then not everything is lost - the tree lives !!! Look further how things will go and later decide - what to leave that cut and etc

Polina shubina

Yes, later remove all frostbite, and from the new shoots you'll form a tree, it will grow quickly on good roots.

Elena the Wise

Drink plenty of apple trees, maybe even other buds come to life. When the leaves bloom, trim.

Frozen old apple trees. What to do with them? Where and when to cut and what is superfluous

Kado

cut all dry and from the sprouts that go above the stock form a new tree

Alex

Trimming should be done - http://lilygold.ru/view_post.php?id=122

Lyubov Tsaregorodtseva

the work on the formation of the crown of fruit trees is recommended to be carried out in a period of rest. ! and not during the growing season. even before bud break. The main principle is in the smallest period of tree sap flow. so as not to destroy the remaining living part of the apple tree. It can be late autumn. or in early spring !. on a living tree to cut huge branches or even trunk-ALL JUICE WILL LEAD IN Wounds! . even if you cover it with garden pitch. does not matter. tree sap can flow out. and then the whole tree will perish. Do not rush to file now, late autumn. spend sanitary pruning of all dry branches. and trunks. leave only live twigs. Cover cutting places with a garden pitch and bandage them! Good luck to you and all the best!

anatoly Yakovlev

The excess in the synagogue is circumcised.

Natusya Natusya

you will see dry, lifeless branches of them and cut them, be sure to cover the cut with garden pitch

the apple tree froze, but in the spring from the bottom the buds then the branches and not the fruits of why? or need to re-instill

Stepan Gips

Apple tree could start self-positioning. But if the kidneys went with a graft - well. And if the stock is bad. When fruit trees are galling, they graft onto the wilderness, like a more durable cultural bud. Then, above the place of grafting, the dick is trimmed, and the grafted bud turns into a branch, then into a crown. If you look closely, you can see the place of inculcation of the kidney. Approximately at a distance of 10-20 cm from the ground. If your kidney is lower than this place, then expect nothing good. You need to re-instill something worthwhile. And if above - there is hope that this is a cultural branch.

Valentina Timofeeva

the question is not absolutely clear ...

It's me

But in the spring from the bottom of the bud and then the branch - what is the general question? About what? And what can bear fruit if the apple tree froze?

apple tree frozen how to save

Yury Korshunov

If young. wait for the shoots above the scion. Of
  one of them grow a new apple tree. If not
  there will be shoots, the root is dead, things are bad. Now
  fill it with warm water with a root.

Good Cobra

It may go away, not even this year, but maybe not. Help is no longer possible.

Victor kapoustian

If the roots died, then you will not save. If the branches are frozen, you need to cut them and reappoint the boles.

alyona

wait can still move

Alexey Poluboyartsev

such trees need more water and more often. Maybe it will go ...

An apple tree froze out, only the trunk of it was cut down, or maybe it will be a pity the apple tree was a culture

Peter Tulupov

Any crown is restored in 3 years, it is worth treating a process from the root, it is not difficult to plant it, but it is not easy to grow such roots. I think the sleeping buds will wake up on the bridge and everything will be restored!

Svetlana Klochkova

I understood that the trees were not frozen, but completely frozen out. Even if an apple tree goes away, it will not live long, and there is no sense in planting it. You can try to beat the dried trunk: hang pots, plant clematis, etc. Only the bark is better to remove. I have such "firewood" at the dacha, I will wrap around clematis.

Isaeva Olga

If it froze below the inoculation, then nothing good will come. If the cultural sprouts and apple trees go higher, they will not be wild.

Batman

Will not depart. Only time will be lost. In Omsk, cold and snow. As it was determined that the apple tree was frozen. Yes, and the winter was warm.

Polina shubina

Last winter froze out? And in the summer did not give the tops? Then clean up.

The Scarlet Flower

Wait if the spring goes shoots from the root, it will grow on the new. For me, too, I froze out one year and then went from the root. Over the summer, it grew by as much as half a meter and last year it already bred. And apricot is also grown from the root.

  Apple tree

210. How old is the apple tree?

In principle, an apple tree can grow and bear fruit for up to 100 years and even more. Known for long-lived apple trees, living in this world for 300 years. But in the North-West, apple trees begin to die, mainly due to the death of the bark, at a young age - 20-25 years.

211. How to choose a place on the plot for planting an apple tree?

First of all, it is necessary to choose a place on the site so that the trees are covered from the north winds. It is better if there are other plants along the northern border, for example, spruce, maples (naturally, outside the boundaries of your site), shadberry, red rowan, sea buckthorn. In the south, in front of the house, you can plant a couple of fruit trees, but the whole garden should not be planted, because in ten years in front of the house there will be a solid shadow in which only grass will grow well. And we have small plots, and we should not squander the precious area under the sun.

Apple trees can be arranged in 1-2 rows along one of the borders of the site (only not from the south!), Departing from the border of the neighbor's site, as expected, 3-4 meters. To prevent these precious meters from disappearing, plant berry bushes between the trees and the border . For example, you can plant a raspberry (which is very friendly with an apple tree, besides it can bear fruit in partial shade) or black currant (which can also bear fruit in partial shade), leaving 1–1.5 m to the border, so that it is convenient to work with berries, crossing the border. The root system of raspberry and black currant is located in the surface layer of the soil, and the root system of the apple tree is lower, so there will be no competition for moisture and nutrition between these berry bushes and trees.

Trees are planted at a distance of 4 m from each other, and shrubs - 1–1.5 m.

If you have a larger plot, you can plant trees in a group in one or two places, according to the 4 x 4 m scheme. Then it is not necessary to make straight paths - make them winding, flowing around the planting groups. Visually, such a free garden composition with winding paths increases the space of the garden, but there are much less plants in the same area as with a regular layout.

212. I have clay soil on the site. Is it possible to plant apple trees, will they die?

Do not die if you do everything right. If clay or heavy loam is in the area, then trees cannot be planted in the pits. Clay does not let the water through, during the autumn rains the landing pit will fill with water. In winter, it will freeze through, which, of course, will cause the death of the root system. It is impossible to plant in pits and on peat bogs, as well as where groundwater lies close (less than 1 m). In all these cases, hills should be filled with a height of about 60-80 cm and a diameter of at least 1 m. In subsequent years, the hill should be expanded. To do this, it is enough to pour a compost pile around it, and in order to have a neat look at the perimeter of the tree, pour peat or sand over garbage and weeds each time. If you use peat, remember that it acidifies the soil under the apple tree, and she prefers neutral soil, therefore it is necessary to add ash to the peat at the rate of 1 half-liter jar for each bucket of peat (either 1 cup of lime or dolomite).

Where to take as much land for the bulk hill? And you just put trash right under the future hill right on the ground. First, lay a layer of stones, broken slate or red bricks to keep the roots from growing down, where they will die. Overlaid all this with any land that you will be able to heat up on your own plot and near it. Then fold the torn, old books (this is, of course, barbarism, but agree that many of the books produced by this book are only fate and worthy), magazines, pieces of old boards, large branches, chips, cardboard, unnecessary things made of cotton or wool (synthetics do not rot, but only litter the soil, so it should not be put). And again all this is stratified by earth. Then bring in crumpled black and white newspapers (a small amount of colored material is permissible, but color glossy illustrations are not, due to the presence of a large amount of harmful dyes in them). Deoxidizers should be added to this layer: ash, dolomite, lime, whatever you have, at the rate of 1 cup of lime or dolomite for each bucket of earth or 1 half-liter can of ash. Then all summer, you can put a compost pile on this place, sprinkling weeds and food waste, as well as feces from the toilet with soil, sand or peat. From time to time add a handful of superphosphate. If you want, you can water the compost pile with a solution of “Baikal Em-1”, “Renaissance” or “Compostina” or add “Shine”. These drugs will accelerate compost rework. By next spring, the heap will settle by two thirds of the height, so in the fall its height should be at least 1.2 m. In the spring, before planting, pour a heap of potassium solution that does not contain chlorine, namely: 3 tablespoons of potassium sulphate or carbonate (and Better potassium nitrate) to 10 liters of water. In the fall, potassium makes no sense, because during the autumn rains and winter thaws, water will dissolve and wash it in the lower layers. From above, add the usual ground, which you have, in a layer of about 40 cm.

213. If the site is very close groundwater, then how to properly plant an apple tree?At close standing of groundwater, as well as on peat-marshy soil, the growth of the central root deep down should not be allowed. It is necessary to force it to branch so that the root system is located in the horizontal upper layer of the soil. On clay it happens, but in other cases (except for planting on sandy soils), it is necessary to immediately impede the growth of roots. To do this, pour a layer of stones, broken bricks, clay shards, pieces of slate on the bottom of the seat, and only then bring in the soil. This is especially true for pears in the North-West, because pears have a core root system and central root to a depth of 4 m, and the pear does not tolerate over-wetting of the soil, especially stagnant or groundwater.

214. What is the right way to plant an apple tree if there is regular soil on a plot?   If you have the usual soil (sandy loam or light loam, and even more so, arable land), then you can generally plant on a flat surface. It is only necessary to remove the top layer of soil. Turn the turf and lay it around the seat, creating a frame. Pull out the roots and rhizomes of perennial weeds. Make a small depression (15-20 cm), fold the ground out onto the frame. Place a mound of fertile, moist soil in the center of the depression and plant a seedling on this mound. Sprinkle on top of good soil, flush with the frame.

215. Why is it recommended to plant an apple tree in water before planting?   Before planting, any seedling should always be put in the water for 2–3 hours so that the tree is saturated with moisture, and then immediately planted into place. But for longer than 2–3 hours in the water, do not keep it: the roots will lose a significant portion of potassium, and this will have a bad effect on their survival rate and further growth.

216. How to plant an apple tree at the stakes when planting?After planting, the seedling should be tied up, otherwise the wind will loose the root system in loose soil and the seedling will simply fall. But how exactly to tie? Of course, did you pay attention to how the saplings are tied when planting the city? Here and tie - to the three stakes. This is the most reliable way. And if you are accustomed to tying to two, then drive the stakes not from the south and north of the seedling, as recommended in the books (explanations on this score are unintelligible), but drive the stakes in the direction of the winds prevailing in your area. In the North-West westerly winds prevail, which means that the stakes need to be driven from the west and east of the seedling. Then the harness will keep the seedling from swinging by the wind. If you plant a one-year old twig or plant a plant grown in a container, you do not need to tie it up.

217. They planted an apple tree, it settled down, dissolved the leaves, and then suddenly dried up. Why?If the apple tree dried up, despite the abundant watering, then most likely you made a mistake when planting. It was necessary to cut the aboveground part of the plant, that is, to shorten the central conductor and all branches by a quarter (and even a third in a dry time) of their length. Then the balance between the weakened root system and the above-ground part too large for it will be restored and the seedling will take root well. This, of course, does not apply to seedlings grown in a container.

218. Does the fall need to rake leaves under the apple trees?In the North-West, tree roots spread quite far beyond the perimeter of the crown, since the roots do not go deep into cold and barren soils, but prefer to spread out in width, in a small arable layer of soil only 40-50 cm thick, and therefore vulnerable to large sudden frosts after the thaw . Therefore, I recommend not to rake leaves in autumn, but, on the contrary, to throw them around the trees. Allegedly, wintering on the leaves of pests and pathogens, do not be afraid, there are no more and no less of them than with spring and autumn digging of tree trunks. This is, by the way, a delusion. The less you dig, the better the tree will bear fruit.

219. Why does an apple tree not bear fruit for a long time?

Winter varieties of apple trees generally begin to bear fruit much later than autumn and, especially, summer varieties. This can occur even in the seventh year after planting a one-year-old or two-year-old seedling. But if all the deadlines have passed, and the apple tree does not want to bear fruit, check whether you have deepened the trunk too much when planting. The tree in this case will have to pick up or dig. When planting apple trees, the root collar is not buried at all in the soil, let it be better to be slightly above the soil surface.

Another reason may be that the branches grow vertically or almost vertically upwards. They must be bent to an almost horizontal position. Only on the horizontal branches and is fruiting. The branches should be bent down gradually, for this they make a cuff of dense material, which freely embraces the branch. Then, over the cuff, without tightening it, tie a rope. The end of the rope is tied to a peg driven into the soil from the side where they are going to deflect the branch. (The peg is driven in obliquely from the tree.) After that, they begin to gradually wind the rope on the stake. By slightly bending the branch over the summer, it is allowed to winter in this position, and the next summer it is bent back to an almost horizontal position.

If the branches are located horizontally and the planting is done correctly, and the apple tree does not bear fruit, this is caused by a lack of iron. There is an old folk remedy: drive into the trunk of an apple tree two medium-sized rusty nails. Or you can simply bury some rusty metal objects under the apple tree or spray it with a 0.1% solution of ferrous sulfate 2–3 times during the season (1 teaspoon of vitriol per 8–10 l of water). Or use "Uniflor-micro" or "Florist" (2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water) for foliar feeding.

220. When to plant an apple tree?Generally speaking, in the spring. In the Northwest, the best landing time is May. The apple tree is a sonul, it wakes up relatively late, lately unwraps the leaves, the root system starts working only when the soil in the zone of sucking roots warms up to 8 ° C. In the North-West soils are poor in humus, so they are cold. They warm up slowly due to the fact that cold comes from the lower layers of the earth, and the above-ground temperature is low, that is why the upper layer also warms up slowly. In such conditions, a half-awake apple tree easily tolerates transportation and transfer in May.

221. What to look for when buying apple seedlings? Be sure to carefully inspect the roots. If they are too dry and there are no young roots on them, do not take seedlings. There will be little sense from him. Therefore, it is better not to buy seedlings at all exhibitions and fairs there, because planting material is usually imported, and from the southern regions of the country. First, imported varieties are not regionalized for other regions, grown in the southern regions, with a warmer climate than where they are to live, so they will often freeze, and in the harsh winter they may even die. In addition, the seedlings were carried for a long time, and therefore their root system can be in a deplorable state. It is best to go to a well-established local nursery, and there, on the spot, buy a seedling. Still very good if it is dug right in front of you.

222. How to transport an apple tree sapling?It will be great if, going for apple seedlings, you bring with you a sphagnum moss. Moss retains moisture and, moreover, bactericidal, so the roots, lined with such moss, will easily carry the shipment. But not everyone can get moss, there is another option: it is enough to wrap the roots with wet newspapers in several layers. Then you need to wrap them in a plastic diaper, and then you can even carry 2-3 days. Previously, before being transported long distances, the roots of seedlings were dipped in a clay talker with a mullein. This was done in order to preserve small sucking roots. If they are alive, the apple tree will quickly take root.

223. Is it possible to plant a three-year apple tree?Apple trees older than three years to plant does not make any sense. In general, the younger the sapling, the easier it takes root in a new place. Therefore, I recommend buying annual saplings, they are also cheaper.

224. We bought apple saplings, and the place for planting is not yet ready. Where to put the seedlings?If you bought an annual sapling grown not in a container, but you didn’t prepare a seat for it, then plant it on any vegetable patch. Let the first year grow up, and during this time you will prepare a permanent place for it and transplant it to the place next spring. You can dig up a seedling in the spring and plant it again in the same place until the next spring. Such a triple planting transplant makes the plant relive stress, and they help strengthen the tree. He will have large, good quality apples. Sometimes even a wilderness grown from the seeds of a ripe apple (of course a zoned variety), transplanted three times, produces remarkably large, tasty fruits.

225. What conditions does an apple tree need for normal growth and fruiting?Like most plants, the apple tree prefers a soil with a neutral, at least with slightly acidic, reaction rich in organic matter and potassium. This is a pot plant, do not forget about it! But the apple tree will grow and even bear fruit on clay or peat bog, on sandy and stony soil, rather scarce. In principle, the plant is rather moisture-loving, but with small droughts it is quite tolerant. It suffers quite large frosts, and therefore managed to settle down in rather severe northern latitudes. An apple tree needs a good place under the sun. She, of course, will reconcile with the penumbra, but in such a wet region as the North-West, where there is little light, in the penumbra the lichen will quickly begin to overcome the apple tree.

226. Do I need to make fertilizer when planting a seedling?

It all depends on what kind of soil you have at the landing site. If it is good, garden land, then do not. If solid sand, then it is necessary to make any complex mineral fertilizer, slowly dissolving in water. For an annual sapling, it is quite sufficient to add, for example, 1 tablespoon of Akvarin from the Buysky Chemical Plant. Or 1 tablespoonful of granulated, water insoluble AVA fertilizer. It, by the way, will be enough for three years. At worst, you can make 1 tablespoon of "Azofoski", even better - "Ecofoski" or "Kemira".

In addition, you need to make organic. In sandy or sandy or podzolic soils - 2–3 buckets of rotted compost or manure for a one-year-old sapling. Under the two-year seedling dose should be doubled, and under the three-year - three times.

If the soil is peaty, then it is better to deoxidize it, and not to make mineral fertilizers. Organics on such soils in the first year of life of the seedling is also not needed. In clay, as mentioned above, trees are not planted, but the hill, which will have to be poured over it, must contain both organic and mineral fertilizers.

227. How many times in a season do you need to feed an apple tree?

Unlike garden plants, which should be fed and watered throughout the season, an apple tree needs mineral dressing twice a season. The first must be done in the spring, at the moment of leaf turning. Plants need at this time nitrogen and potassium. You can use specialized dressings for fruit plants of the Buysky chemical plant, you can only use "Akvarin" or "Omu". Enough 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water. Or take the "Ecofosku" or "Kemira". At worst, use 1 tablespoon of urea and 2 tablespoons of potassium carbonate or sulphate (or potassium magnesium) per 10 liters of water.

The second mineral dressing is needed for fruit and berry crops at the end of summer, when the young root system begins to grow in them. In mid-late August, prepare a solution of double granular superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and potassium (1 tablespoon), which does not contain chlorine, in 10 liters of water. And pour this solution at the rate of 10 liters per square meter (of course, around the perimeter of the crown of the plant). Do not worry that superphosphate does not dissolve in cold water. Gradually it will penetrate the root zone and even remain in the soil for the next season. But you can use ready-made autumn fertilizer for fruit plants of the Buysky plant.

And if you once every 2-3 years to put compost around the perimeter of the crown of one or the other apple, no additional fertilizing the tree will not be needed, with the exception of trace elements.

228. How to feed an apple tree with AVA fertilizer?Once every three years, you will embed 3-10 tablespoons of AVA granulated complex fertilizer into the soil at a depth of 7–10 cm around the perimeter of the apple crown. To do this, just draw the groove around the apple tree by the angle of the pololnik. Spread the fertilizer evenly and sprinkle it with soil. This fertilizer does not dissolve in water, and therefore is not washed out of the soil. The plant spends it sparingly and evenly throughout the season. Fertilizer is dissolved in organic soil acids (partly the roots themselves secrete these acids, dissolving the fertilizer as needed). It is only necessary to remember that in alkaline media, fertilizer does not work, therefore, ash, dolomite, lime and other deoxidizing agents should not be applied simultaneously with it.

229. What is a shaped apple tree?Apple trees with an artificially created crown shape are usually called molded. An apple tree is a very plastic plant (which cannot be said about a pear), and therefore it easily tolerates pruning, and the crown of an apple tree can be given a pruning of the most diverse shape.

230. How to check whether the apple tree froze after a hard frost?It is necessary to cut off the end of the branch and look at the cut. Apple has a living tissue of white, and the degree of freezing of wood is determined by the degree of darkening. Light brown or dark beige indicates that the wood has died. But the death of the ends of the branches does not confirm the death of the tree. Ends in general could not mature or the tree went to winter dehydrated (during prolonged dry autumn weather), that frost and dried up the ends of the branches. So the cut must be done on the cortex of the trunk. And immediately cover the wound with brilliant green and liquid garden pitch or natural oil paint. If the cambium (a narrow green conductive layer between wood and bark) is alive, it is green, and if dead, then brown. In this case, the tree really died.

231. How to protect a tree from freezing?

The easiest way is whitewashing. But it is used when the trees are more than three years old. It is better to wrap young trees with synthetic material (nylon tights, synthetic sacking made from sugar or cereals, lutrasil or spanbond). However, lutrasil and spunbond do not protect against rodents. Do not wrap the stems with ruberoid or other dark material. In the spring, it quickly heats up in the sun, and the cambium awakens during the day, and at night a strong cooling stops this process. Cambium from such changes in day and night temperatures may die, and this will lead to peeling of the bark.

In order to help the plants easier to transfer frosts and other weather problems, use "Ecoberin", or "Epin-extra", or "Novosil" ("Silk").

"Ekoberin" protects plants from various weather troubles (droughts, frosts, sudden changes in temperature during the day and at night, prolonged cooling). In addition, it helps plants adapt to strong ultraviolet radiation.

“Epin-extra” practically does the same, besides, it contributes to self-defense of plants against diseases.

Novosil also enhances plant self-defense against pests and diseases, but also removes the stresses caused by adverse weather conditions, which allows plants, in particular, to more easily tolerate frosts.

232. The leaves of the apple tree were coiled up and turned brown at the edges. What is this disease?This is not a disease, but a shortage of apple potassium. Help is needed. Sprinkle the plant with Uniflor-Bud (2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water) or a weak solution of potash fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

233. The foliage of the apple tree somehow brightened and became shallow. Why?This can happen with a lack of nitrogen. Feed any nitrogen fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters), preferably together with potassium (potassium nitrate, for example). Or use "Uniflor-growth".

234. Apple leaves acquired a marble color. What to do?

Most likely, the lack of magnesium affects, in this case the leaves become marble in color - dark green with light green. The leaves should be sprayed with English salt or a solution of potassium magnesia (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

If marble spotting is variegated (yellow-green or red-green and so on), then most often this indicates a lack of some trace element. The easiest way to spray "Uniflor-micro" (2 teaspoons per 10 liters). Instead of "Uniflora" you can use "Florist" or "Aquadon-micro" in the same concentration.

235. Why does a seemingly clean apple have a brown heart?

The cause may be fusarium rot or simply a lack of trace elements in the soil (this is a frequent occurrence on poor soils, in particular, in the North-West). With a lack of trace elements should be sprayed with an apple tree or "Florist", or "Aquadone-micro" or "Uniflorom-micro." This should be done at the time of formation of the ovaries. Fruits with a lack of trace elements are quite edible.

If it is rotten, the fruits are inedible, they have a bitter taste. The disease is most often manifested during storage. Sometimes an apple starts to rot right on the tree. In this case, it would be nice to spray the tree with the drug "Zircon" or "Novosil" ("Silk") in order to prevent the transfer of fruit rot to healthy fruits. Take away the storage of whole fruits that are collected without bruises. It is not bad to spray them before putting into storage the “Fitosporin” preparation, then dry them and only then put them in boxes, sandwiching them with dry straw or wrapping each apple in a piece of newspaper.

236. Why sometimes apple pulp has a “glass” appearance?   The vitreousness of the fruit appears either when the fruit froze right on the trees with small early autumn frosts (usually this happens with late varieties that did not have time to ripen), or during prolonged rainy weather before harvesting (due to too much water in the apple sap). Appears usually during storage. These apples are stored poorly, the taste of the fruit fall.

237. Why do apple trees exfoliate bark?

The most common primary cause is either cold bones or sunburn of the cortex. And both can be avoided if the tree trunks are whitened in time (late autumn), and whitewashing must be such that it cannot be washed away by the long autumn and winter rains in wet regions.

Damage first appears as pinkish spots on the bark. Then, the damaged bark begins to die off, pathogens of fungal diseases settle on it, and it exfoliates. Damaged bark should be removed by stripping to healthy wood. In order to preserve the cambium at the edges of the stripping, the wound should be treated either with brilliant green or with hydrogen peroxide, let it dry and cover it with oil paint on natural linseed oil. Then the wound will grow bark again. After treatment, the wound can be filled with liquid garden pitch.

The death of the cortex can also be caused by black cancer, or anthracnose, but they also appear only on the damaged bark. There is also a pest - bark beetle. You will find his traces in the form of sawdust, pouring out of the holes, and when you remove the exfoliated bark, you will see him too. It should be the same as mentioned above. If bark beetle damaged the bark too much, or mice or rabbits gnawed, then graft the bridge, that is, graft cuttings from the same tree below and above the damage, after clearing and treating the damage site, as mentioned above.

238. Why are apples covered with black spots and even cracks?This is a scab. At first it appears on the leaves as black spots, then moves to the fruit. It should be dealt with in the same way as with a scab on pears. But, as already mentioned about the pear, it may be a lack of iron. The lack of other trace elements is difficult to determine specifically, because the lack of any of them manifests itself in the form of a yellow-green mosaic of leaves. If such leaves appear, urgently spray the tree on the leaves in the evening in dry weather with “Uniflor-micro” or “Florist”, then you will avoid many troubles.

239. Is it possible to use nitrafen against scab on an apple tree?Not. This is a very strong poison, it is allowed to use 200-400 meters from the dwelling, therefore it is prohibited for use on garden plots. And no talk about the fact that it is used in early spring, when there are no beneficial insects yet, does not make its use safe, because with the spring waters nitrafen will fall into wells and ponds. In the early spring, instead of nitrafen, you can spray a garden against wintering pests and pathogens with a concentrated solution of mineral fertilizers. It is best to use urea for this purpose (700 g per 10 liters of water). You can use a modern and very effective drug "Zircon". In the spring, it is better to use it in conjunction with Epin-extra, on young leaves, and in the fall only Zircon should be used (4 sprays per liter of water are used for spraying).

240. What should I do if the trunk of an apple tree has split into two parts?Reconnect both parts of the trunk and knock them together with metal clips. Then cover the gap with a mixture of clay with a mullein or pour over the garden pitch and tie with canvas. A year later, the canvas can be removed.

241. After a harsh winter, my apple tree dried up. What to do with it?   Never rush to uproot the dead apple trees. They can come to life in the second year. Very small red "pimples" appear on the bark - these are the kidneys. Branches will develop from them. But if this did not happen in the second year, then it is necessary to cut down the tree at the root. This will give an impetus to the emergence of root suckers, which should be cut in the fall, leaving only the strongest of them. Next spring, it should be planted in a good grade, because it is wild. Since the root system is strong, it will quickly grow and become fruiting. But it is impossible to wait more than two years, then the root system will also die.

242. How much water should be poured under the apple when watering?Usually as many buckets as a tree years. And do not forget: water should not be poured under the trunk, but along the perimeter of the tree crown. Often gardeners throw a hose right at the trunk, and it is unknown for whom the pump pumps water. You will come to such a gardener, digging around the perimeter of the crown the next day after watering, and there, to his complete astonishment, dry it, as there was no watering. All the work of the dog down the drain. So, my dear ones, when irrigating with a hose, you will have to stand with it all the time and direct the water jet around the crown of the tree, but not to pour it at one point, but to constantly move or move the hose.

243. Apple tree has grown huge, it is very difficult to harvest from it. How to be?If the tree has already outgrown all sorts of reasonable limits, then just in the fall, cut off the top of it, not just smear it with brilliant green, but also cover it with liquid garden pitch or oil paint with natural paint from above. And cut down the lower branches so that they are 12-15 cm below the shortened central trunk.

244. I read that in the garden to protect the apple trees from pests, it is necessary to plant hawthorn and it will collect all the pests of the apple trees. Is it correct? No, wrong. Because the hawthorn will attract all apple pests to the garden. Moreover, not only the pests of apple trees, but also the pests of hawthorn will fly from it to the apple trees.

245. How to deal with apple blooms?

Gardeners usually find a worm that is in a young ovary, and the “train has already left,” the ovary is hopelessly damaged, the apple will not grow out of it. Dirty goose beetle, bronze-green, with proboscis, like a weevil. Like the weevil, it gnaws a bud and lays an egg in it. The larva hatching from it feeds on the growing ovary and falls along with the fallen off ovary to the ground, crawls out of the carrion and leaves for pupation in the upper layer of soil.

It is clear that it is necessary to fight the pest at the time of isolation of the buds, that is, when the buds begin to emerge from the dense pile. This struggle is effective only until the buds begin to turn pink. When the buds are completely colored, the larva is already inside and the ovary is still destroyed.

What to spray? The fact that it disorients the pest, that is, a strong foreign smell, to confuse the beetle. Pests will not condemn their offspring to hunger, leaving him in a suspicious place. Therefore, spray the garden at the time of isolation of buds (dates, naturally, for each plant are different) infusion of needles, tansy, onion peel, citrus peels, weeds, and so on. You can use karbofos or "Fufanon", but only before the flowering of any plant in the garden. In addition, you should know that these drugs have a fairly high inhalation toxicity, that is, they get into your body during breathing and strongly “put” the liver. So a gauze bandage is required.

Better on the unfolding leaves spray apple "phyto ferm".

246. How to get rid of moth?The most effective way is to systematically spray the garden with the homeopathic medicine Aurum-S (Healthy Garden). Moth flies all summer, starting in June. There is a common recommendation - to catch males either in ferapon traps, or in jars with kvass or other fermented liquid, the smell of which is similar to the smell of a female. That's the way it is, but only the males fly from all around. A hundred will fall into the trap, and the hundred and first will fertilize the female. Why then convene them from everywhere? They, on the contrary, should be discarded from their garden with the help of disorienting odors. Taking care of the offspring, the female will not lay an egg on the ovary of the plant, to the smell of which suspicious extraneous smells are mixed, as well as on the ovaries, which are low in carbohydrates, and the garden, in particular, apple trees, are sprayed with Aurum-S ".

247. Someone nibbled all the roots of a large apple tree, and it fell. What now?I'm afraid that nothing can be done, the tree will die. He doesn’t like a water rat (similar to a muskrat, but smaller). The rat does not know how to dig the earth itself and runs along mole passes. Therefore, if a mole lives on a plot, then a rat will surely appear. The mole is a predator; it feeds only on insect larvae and earthworms. He can break off the roots when laying his galleries. But the rat eats roots, tubers, roots of plants. Get rid of it is not easy. You can use "Ratifen-Cro." You can put, however, as on the mole, traps, but the easiest way to sow along the ditches from the side is the black root (not to be confused with the black root!). Its seeds at any time of the year will cling to the animal skin. This causes them nervous stress. Water rats will leave your site.

It is difficult to imagine a garden plot without an apple tree, which has already become its real symbol. And the filling ripe apple is exactly what is expected from it with impatience, for the sake of which efforts are made. But what to do if the plant is already several years old, and there is still no harvest? You can resort to folk remedies, they often help out in such circumstances. But first you need to find out the true reason why the tree does not bloom and does not bear fruit.

There are many different cases: an apple tree can be young and not bloom, it can bloom, but it does not give fruit or give, but very little. Let us consider each case in more detail.

Young apple tree

The apple tree has already lived to the age when it is time to begin to bear fruit (and this is usually the fifth year), but nothing happens. In the simplest case, you simply have no idea what kind of variety it is, and the tree may turn out to be one of those who are beginning to produce crops for the sixth, or even the seventh year of life (Sunny, Suislepskoe, Anis Scarlet, Anis Striped, Autumn Striped, etc.).

Properly planted apple trees and develops correctly, and the fruit brings without delay

If you know that the tree should have bloomed by all estimations for a long time, but for some reason it is not in a hurry to do this, perhaps it was planted incorrectly. He could be buried too much, and then he would have to spend more time in the struggle for survival. Such apples are easily recognizable by the slow growth rate, and annual growths generally freeze.

The tree is seven, eight years old or more.

When all conceivable and inconceivable terms have already passed, and there is still no expected flowering, it’s time to think about caring for a tree. If all the proper activities are carried out by you, then you may be violating the rules for pruning. So, inexperienced gardeners often remove fouling wood in the form of fruit tree twigs. These include garden twigs, spear and collar.

Fruits of apple trees: 1 - spear with growth apical bud; 2 - spear with flower apical bud; 3 - fruit twig; 4 - collatement with a growth apical bud; 5 - kolchatka with flower bud; 6 - fruit bag; 7 - the fruit; 8 — fruit bags with replacement shoots (a — collar; b — spear; c — fruit twig; d — growth shoot)

Remember them? If these are the very branches that you have been constantly removing until now, then leave them alone, and also refrain from pruning the apple for the next year, or even two years. Then look at where the flowers will be born - the branches carrying them are fruit.

Blossoms, but there is no harvest or very little

This may be due to several reasons.

1. The most original explanation is the absence of cross-pollination. If there are no other apples around, then pollination simply will not happen. This version looks exotic and is quite rare, because, as was said at the beginning, the apple tree on our plots is a phenomenon almost universal, so such problems can arise except for lonely gardeners living in the wilderness.
2. Flower buds can mature poorly. Most often this occurs in southern varieties (Kuban spur, Idared, Astrakhan, etc.) planted in the northern regions. In this case, the flowers are weak and have a short period for pollination, which significantly reduces the number of ovaries. Also, poor kidney maturation contributes to an excess of nitrogen in the soil.
3. Far more unpleasant is the attack of tsvetoyod (weevil larvae). His presence give out drops of sugary liquid on the buds. After hibernation weevil creeps onto branches and lays eggs in flower buds, and then the larvae do their work. The result - dry underdeveloped buds.

Weevil can damage up to 100% of flowers in young gardens, so you need to fight it to the victorious

Does not bloom and does not bear fruit

And if the apple tree, which used to produce a harvest earlier, ceased to bear fruit?

• It can not bloom if it grows on the part of the site where the groundwater is high. Not only will the roots rot, so also the generative buds (namely, they are fruit) will not appear, instead the number of vegetative ones will increase, and the apple tree will grow with greens;

When planting should be aware that the apple trees love the sun, but do not tolerate the wind.

• the simplest reason for the lack of flowering is the old age of the tree;

You can rejuvenate an old apple tree with pruning, but don’t be surprised if it stops producing fruits and becomes just a decorative ornament of a garden - age is still

• iron deficiency in the soil (and apples are fabulously beneficial, largely due to the iron content). Flowers may be very small, and in severe cases they may be absent.

Apple tree fruits only on one side

The phenomenon is rather strange, but has a logical explanation. If you make a mistake when placing the apple on the site, then its part may not be in the best conditions: lack of sufficient lighting, interference from neighboring trees.

It also happens that in early spring the plant was sunburned. In this case, waiting on this side in the coming season does not have to not only fruits, but also flowers.

Sunburn can destroy a part of a tree or even an entire apple tree

It is possible that, for some reason, diseases or pests have chosen only a part of the tree, but this, as a rule, turns out to be only a temporary phenomenon on the way to the complete destruction of the plant.

Not every year

A common occurrence in garden plots is irregular fruiting.  And well, if you just grow good old ringed varieties like Pears, Robin or Antonovki, which give a crop in a year. But it also happens that the tree itself should bear fruit regularly, but for some reason it does not. This is usually associated with the mistakes of gardeners, planting in their lane those varieties that are created for other latitudes. In this case, the apple trees do not tolerate the winter, they are easily affected by diseases and pests.

Illiterate care or lack of it also has a negative effect on fruiting. The tree begins to grow old quickly, tends to leave behind posterity as soon as possible, which results in an abundance of flowers and a small, sour harvest. After such a season, an apple tree will still come to its senses for another 2-3 years.

A pest like peppered moths, leaving a tree without leaves, or a disease like scab that affects photosynthesis and accelerates leaf fall, make it impossible for the apple tree to plant more flowering buds next year.

Scab is a fixable problem, by now there are quite a few varieties resistant to the disease

Nobody has canceled natural conditions against which it is almost impossible to do anything. Severe winters, frost during flowering, cold and rain, interfering with the work of bees, strong hail at the time of development of the ovaries - all this can deprive the crop. However, the apple tree will send all the forces to create a huge number of flower buds for the next season.

Fruit quality is deteriorating.

Often this is due to the lack of proper trimming. The abundance of branches leads to a large number of fruits, but at the same time the plant does not have enough strength to form large juicy apples. So they begin to shrink and lose in sweetness and taste.

Problem solving

Let's figure out how to make an apple tree.

In the case of a young tree, if it is improperly planted, you can correct the mistake by transplanting it higher - the root neck should be at ground level.

If we are talking about the removal of fouling wood, then we leave all of the above, we don’t cut the apple tree for the next year or two. It is necessary to give her time to gain strength and direct these same forces to the cause.

If apple trees bloom every year, but do not set fruit or set them in small quantities, first check with the State Register if your variety is suitable for cultivation in the area. If everything is complied with, we turn to nitrogen oversupply - then you just need to know the measure. Its main sources are compost and manure - they are used for young saplings before the time of fruiting. As soon as the first flowering has occurred, any nitrogen-containing feedings should be abolished, even mulch in grass should be avoided. Fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus - that's what you need to replace the sources of nitrogen.

Nitrogen fertilizers in the form of compost and manure are good in moderate quantities and only before the first fruiting

Trapping belts work well against the weevil. They are set before the kidneys swell. Late with them - grab the insecticide. The first time they are used in the disclosure of buds, the second - after the flowering garden. It is at this point that the larvae are more vulnerable to chemicals.

Do not try to use insecticides during flowering - along with pests, destroy insect helpers.

In the case of crone thickening, a competent pruning will be required, which should be done in spring or autumn.  The order of branch removal is as follows:

• get rid of old, dried and damaged branches;
• then from those that grow wrong and interfere with others;
• pruned weak and thin branches of the second order (which grow from the main).

Such pruning improves the fruiting of the apple tree. But the iron deficiency in the soil can be corrected with iron-containing preparations like copper sulfate, which should be sprayed with the plant in early spring.

To prevent the apple tree from getting sunburn, even in the fall, take care of whitewashing the trunk and skeletal branches.

What to do if an apple tree bears fruit after a year  (video)

To avoid problems with flowering and fruiting, do not leave the apple tree unattended, take into account the characteristics of the variety when planting, protect the plant from wind and pests, prevent burns. Then the tree will certainly thank you for a delicious and high-quality harvest.

April is coming. Many gardeners have already visited their plots, walked through barely thawed soil, listened to the murmur of spring water ... How is the honeysuckle: did the flowers bloom in winter, will there be a harvest this year or, like in the past, will we again be left without berries? And what attractive swollen buds of the black currant - leaflets are about to appear. It is urgent to tear off the round buds in which the tick has lurked!

Now let's take a look at our fruit trees. We approach each of them, examine it until there are no leaves and the crown is clearly visible, and decide how to help it. One apple tree last year has grown too much, the growth of branches almost half a meter. And how crown thickened! It can be seen, she got a lot of nutrients that year. Mark it for thinning.

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It is best to have two secateurs. Ratchet tools are good for branches with a large diameter, and for small branches you need a pruner with a spring, but, again, not everyone will do. In any case, if you go to the store to buy a pruner, take a sprig of willow or any other tree of different diameters with you and check the instrument when you buy it.

We continue the inspection. The next apple tree is over 20 years old, it pleased us with great harvests, but was exhausted, gave a small increase last year, and the crown was not thinned for a long time. We will rejuvenate it.

We approach another tree. The apple tree is not old, only 7–8 years old, the growth is large, the branches are all stretching upwards, and the harvest was so-so, the apples are small, and there were few of them. We outline it on thinning and translation of vertical branches to a horizontal position in order to better lay the flower buds.

We are approaching a very young, two years ago planted apple tree. Yes, it will take a long time to wait for the harvest, if you do not help the tree to speed up fruiting ...

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We cut branches

We get the garden tools: pruner, garden file, knife; Prepare pitch or oil paint on natural linseed. Slices of twigs thick with a pencil can not be gloss over, and larger ones must be treated with garden pitch or painted over with oil paint. But the pre-slice should be allowed to dry. Try to paint any wet surface with oil paint - it will not work.
Before we approach the tree with the shears, we need to know how and when the nutrients (also called plastic) enter the crown. This is very important when pruning.

In the spring, we notice that the buds swell, and then a green cone appears and leaves begin to bloom. So, our trees have already woken up from the winter “hibernation”, and the nutrients have gone from the roots to the crown. But in what direction is the movement going? Let's look at pic. one.

First, plastic substances rush upward along the central trunk and vertically located branches, then enter the declined branches, and last of all - into the horizontal ones. Accordingly, the more the branch is deviated from the vertical position, the less nutrients it enters - and the sooner the flower buds appear.

Pruning before the start of sap flow, before the buds swell and bloom (in March and early April), retains the nutrients for the remaining crown. The unspent portion of these substances enhances the growth of the remaining branches and awakens dormant buds. And when pruned at the height of the sap flow or later, the branches with nutrients already supplied to them are removed, so the growth of the shoots remaining on the tree will not be rapid in this case. Typically, such pruning is carried out from mid-April until the end of flowering. But nature often makes its own adjustments in these terms, so carefully watch your trees. Let's look at examples.

An old apple tree (20–30 years old), the growth is small, the fruits are crushed, the branches spread 6–7 m in breadth and 5–6 m up. Rejuvenation is required. In the first year, you can reduce the height of the crown, because it is not very convenient to collect fruits at a six-meter height. Counting from above about one third, we cut down the top. At the same time, we thin out the crown, cleaning with secateurs not very large branches that grow deep into, or tops that have grown after freezing the bark on the branches.

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For successful planting of flower buds, young apple trees should be limited in nutrients, so it is best to prune such trees in May, after the start of sap flow.

Saw off the top should be in three steps, otherwise you can damage the bark. The correct procedure is shown in Fig. 2. Departing from the place of the alleged otpil about 20 cm, we do the first cut, then - on the other hand - the second. The top of the tree will fall off. There will be a stub, which will need to be removed with a third kerf. Slice we dry for two to three days and gloss over with var or paint over with oil paint. Now thin the crown, removing a few branches.

In place of the slice over the summer, tops will grow, from which it will be possible to form new young branches. Excess pups should be removed immediately while they are still green and can be pinched. For example, we want to form a central conductor and two skeletal branches. We leave the three strongest top, and all the rest vylamyvaem. Now one top continues to grow upwards, and the other two we bend to neighboring branches as they grow (Fig. 3).

Next year pruning can be continued by cutting out two skeletal branches. In this case, the cut is also done in three steps (Fig. 4). Cut branches must be at different levels of the trunk, otherwise the flow of nutrients in the upper part of the crown will be sharply reduced.
I always spend pruning old trees before the start of sap flow. The tool must be sharp.

A young apple tree (5–8 years old), strong shoots, formative pruning was not carried out, the harvest is small. This apple tree requires thinning and translation of the branches to a horizontal position. At the top of the tree stands the central conductor. Part of the branches is cut - including those that grow deep (Fig. 5). Some branches are cut to the outer bud.

Formation of the crown after landing

I am only talking about my experience in cropping and crown formation. I usually buy saplings of apple, pear and other fruit trees in containers - this allows me not to rush into planting if the seat is not ready yet. Saplings - same or two-year-olds.

A one-year-old is usually just a sprout of 70–100 cm in length, while a two-year-old has several more skeletal branches. Since the penumbra should be under the crown of the fruit tree, it is necessary to form the first tier of skeletal branches in time. If this is not done, they will grow much more than it should be for a sparse crown, and we will have to remove large branches, on the growth of which the plant consumed a lot of nutrients.

In late autumn or early spring, I remove the growing point and break off the top of one-year-old seedlings, whose height has reached 100 cm. Next year, the buds will wake up and the side shoots will start to grow. Here you can not yawn! The sooner we remove excess shoots, the more nutrients will remain growing. With the usual shaping, we make a stem about 60–70 cm in height from the soil (part of the trunk on which there are no branches), then for the remaining part we leave three side shoots, distributing them evenly to the top of the seedling and directing it in different directions; also leave the center conductor. The following year, on the raised central conductor, we again form three or four skeletal branches. Strongly grown for the previous year, the shoots of the first formation are cut off to the outer bud, so that the branches take a horizontal position.

Apple trees can be given a variety of forms. In the north, in order to get a harvest, they are made to creep - in winter, the whole tree is under the snow and does not freeze. So I formed a large southern pear, grafted on the Ussuri stock. I tried to inoculate it on a zoned one, but at a temperature of minus 42 degrees, the inoculation was frozen out.

There are a lot of ways to form the crown, and if you wish, you can do real miracles in your garden. Read, learn, go to lectures - everything is in your power!

Elena Litvyakova

“Garden affairs”, No. 4 (20), 2008